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Old 08-05-2003, 02:39 AM   #31
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Molly,
What is "Start Right" and "ACE"?

Mike
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:42 AM   #32
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Hi Mike:

Start Rite removes Chlorine and Cloramine, ACE removes cloramine Amonia, or so it says. (our tap water does test positive for amonia)
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:44 AM   #33
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Instead of using both chemicals, why not use one: Seachem Prime.
Best on the market in my opinion!

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Old 08-05-2003, 02:50 AM   #34
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Good plan, I was using Seacham Neutral Regulator, until I decided I was treating the symtom and the problem. BTW sorry I got your advise...after I added the crushed coral, may need to adjust the amount but gonna leave it cooking for the moment and see what happens, does tht seem like a good plan, or am I off on the wrong road again?
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Old 08-05-2003, 03:48 AM   #35
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Molly,

DONT GET AHEAD OF YOURSELF...LOL

Ok so from what I can gather you added crushed coral to the tank correct? has its pH value crashed?

The reason for not adding the coral is we are trying to determine what is causing your pH to crash. We need to eliminate all the possible causes.

From what I can gather here is a summary:

1) you have water sitting in glass overnight pH test out of tap and in AM
2) you have water sitting in glass overnight pH test out of tap with water treatment in....and test in AM
3) you have accomplished water change and have tested pH right after change and in AM ( USE BUBBLES like you normally would )
4) you have water sitting in glass with substrate...pH test and in AM


Ok record those values....

NEXT....if the pH stays up in any of those combos thats a good thing. If it crashes thats a good thing too because we are eliminating things.

If all the tests OUT OF TANK... your cooking ones are reading normal pH, an the tank still shows pH crash we start another set of testing.

1) Try a water change...then record pH...if it is normal for you wait another hour and test again....what is it reading? if still normal....run the test without the airstones pumping into the tank.

This will tell us if the airstones are causing the problem or contributing to it. Remember we have taken the reading with your stones running the night prior. So if the pH crashed this test will show if the airstones might be the culprit.

If the results after this test show that the pH has crashed we can probably assume that the airstones were not the problem and you can rule them out.

See...this is a process of elimination but you have to start from a known quantity and eliminate...dont go adding coral, chemicals, etc til you diagnose the problem.

Hope that helps you out....GOOD LUCK

mike
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10 Gallon...20 Endler's live bearers planted, peat/kitty litter/sand substrate

15 Gallon...Just Schultz Aquatic Plant soil
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Old 08-06-2003, 03:10 AM   #36
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:roll: I have'nt done a water change yet.

heres todays results (identical to yesterdays) :lol:

Tank:
Amonia .5-1.0
PH 7.2
Kh 3
gh 8
nitrite .25
nitrate 0

Flourite bowl:
ph 7.6
kh 4

Egg Rock bowl:
Ph 7.6
kh 5

If any thing, the egg rocks seems to contribute to buffering capicity. One other consideration is heat. I keep the heater set on 80 in the tank, but obviously can't heat my testing bowls.

I'll do the water change either tommorrow or Thursday. (Wed. is my night to clean the dog run so I wear out quickly, not mention getting pretty gamey), and no I don't touch the aquarium after the dog run :-)

I'm patient, want to get to the bottom of this problem.

It will most likey be month or 2 before I try to add fish again.

I think trying different combinations of things, flourite and egg rock, flourite and wood, egg rock and wood, well you get the idea, every combination I can come up with. I really do want to test the air stone thing though.

Thanks again,

Molly
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:43 AM   #37
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Molly your tank has plants correct? That might explain the pH being lower than the rest because the plants will cause the pH to drop at night right?

Hang in there.

mike
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:27 PM   #38
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I once read that someone had bought florite froma store that had it in a bin, open, turned out the store cat had been using the bin as a litter box. Don't see how that could be it really, but just figured I'd toss that in.

Might be time to call the water department to see what they say.
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Old 08-06-2003, 08:39 PM   #39
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Hi Mike:

I never considered the plants, well theres one more test, or several more, in my combination scheme. I'm going to try to do a water change before the dog run today test the water before and then a few hours after to see what happens. Hopefully I'll have a report showing things staying level. (wish me luck).

Thanks again,

Molly
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Old 08-06-2003, 08:46 PM   #40
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Hi anonapersona:

It wouldn't suprise me that a cat would use flourite as a potty, but I bought mine bagged from AZ Plants (something like that), it's a link from here.

Good point about calling the water company, I thought about that too. Perhaps when the load gets heavy, they use alternate (a guess on my part) sources for water. Until this last go round I hadn't been testing the water before adding it to the tank, just after, so could be that one time the ph is fine, and then next time a different source has a way low ph?

Thanks for the great suggestion!

Molly
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:25 PM   #41
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One other thing that I've read about, is that for reasons unknown to you, they might need to flush the lines with something particularly strong, maybe they had to repair a break and dug the line up and got dirt in it, or there was a flood and nasty stuff got where it shouldn't. The goldfish list that I belong to maintains that you should test the water each time before you add any to the tank just to know if the pH is off. 'Course, fancy goldfish are the pickiest damn fish ever invented, likely to sit on the floor and pout if a whiff of nitrates or ammonia drifts by. I also read that rains affect surface water supplies quite a lot. (Lack of rain here just means the pumping of water wells creates additional subsidence!)
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Old 08-08-2003, 05:09 AM   #42
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Hi Ya'll:

Wel won't bother with yesteredays, or todays pre-water chage tests they were all the same, but her is tap water tests and 50% water change tests:

Tap Water:

Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5.0
PH 7.6
KH 4
GH 6
Ammonia .5-1.0

Tank after 4 hrs:

Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Ph 7.2
gh 6
kh 5
ammonia .5-1.0

One bright note, I got some blubs from the local Walmart, (forgot the name), they have not only sprouted but one presented a "flower today" it grew to the top of the tank kinda looks crap claw but white, and califlowering lookin.

Anyway, thats my news still testing.

Molly














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Old 08-08-2003, 05:14 AM   #43
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I didn't intend to say crap claw I meant "crab claw" also got the jumping guy in the wrong place..darnit! Sorry :cry:
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Old 08-08-2003, 05:23 AM   #44
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Hi anonapersona:

I hadn't givin the flooding or line breakage any thought..... great point, as you well know we have had few very wet seasons (I am in No. Texas). Not sure but I am a little concerned with the Nitrate level of untreated tap water at 5.0, everything else seem okay, well within reason.

Thanks,

Molly
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Old 08-08-2003, 01:02 PM   #45
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The nitrate level in the tap water just means that when this tank gets going witht the plants, you won't have to dose nitrate like most of us have to. you'll have perfect levels just by changing water.

I haven't really been following this thread, so I
ll just ask, are you adding something to lock up that ammonia? I suspect that it can be managed with ammo lock or something, or is that an artifact from chloramine treated water?
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