Tank Re-Cycle?
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:15 AM   #1
AustinAd
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Tank Re-Cycle?


Yes, I have read about every post I can find about the cycle. I had the cycle. The cycle worked for me. Twice this year I had to leave for extended time frames and I used feeding pyramids. Lesson learned. Afterward I had a green water bloom. I started doing massive water changes. The last trip was in September. After two months of this, I went to the LFS and he said I was crashing the tank. 10% a week, so I did. I have tested the water for two weeks. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates, 0 phosphates. Lights on 12 hours a day, plants doing great. I stopped CO2 injection a week ago and started injecting Seachem Stability. At this point I am close to throwing the plants out, changing all the water and starting over. From Feb (tank setup) until July it was CRYSTAL clear. Gorgeous. I have five platties, and three neons. The tank is so cloudy at some point one of the platties 1) got pregnant, 2) gave birth, and 3) the fry survived undetected. The water doesn't smell.


Last edited by AustinAd; 12-29-2012 at 12:19 AM.. Reason: Add photo.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:19 AM   #2
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Could you tell us more about your tank?

Specifically, its dimensions.

What kind of lighting are you using? Could you give us details about the brand, style/type, bulb size, length, etc? How many inches from your substrate is the fixture placed? 12 hours is a long photoperiod regardless of fixture.

What kind and how many plants do you have?

Are you dosing any fertilizers?
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:27 AM   #3
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Default Embarrased.

OMG Can't believe I did that. 26 gallon bow front. Kessil A150W @ 12 hours. Light about 19 inches from the substrate. Was dosing Seachem Flourish once a week (4 ml). I had 5 swords, but they have created about 4 more from runners (front). Three of the tall broad leaf plants (I know but they weren't labeled at the LFS and they looked nice.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinAd View Post
OMG Can't believe I did that. 26 gallon bow front. Kessil A150W @ 12 hours. Light about 19 inches from the substrate. Was dosing Seachem Flourish once a week (4 ml). I had 5 swords, but they have created about 4 more from runners (front). Three of the tall broad leaf plants (I know but they weren't labeled at the LFS and they looked nice.
WOW! thats a lot of light!

my 2 pennies,

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Old 12-29-2012, 12:54 AM   #5
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Default Too much?

Thanks for reading and for all the help. Is it too much light? In case I also failed to mention it, FIRST TANK. I bought large pet chain plants first (found out later they were not aquatic plants) and when they failed to thrive, instead of posting questions on a forum where thousands of knowledgeable people post, I BOUGHT BIGGER LIGHTS.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:27 AM   #6
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I recently battled green water and gave up. Ended up tearing my 20g down. Good news is that if you don't have shrimp or invertebrate, tetra algae control will work, that is according to a knowledgeable person I talked with after I told him that green water kicked my butt. I have not personally tried it, but I do trust the source.

That said, you have to take care of your light issue.

that should get rid of your green water and they should not come back.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:56 PM   #7
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I would try to reduce the light from 12h to 7-8h, do 30% WC with soft water every other days in 2 weeks to see if it helps
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:31 PM   #8
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junglefowl,
just want to know what is your rationale for using soft water? It may help give me ideas in the future if I am battling green water again.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:59 PM   #9
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I'm wondering about the substrate. Is it fertilized? Seems like a lot of nutrients are floating around in your tank along with a bit too much light and day length.

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Old 12-29-2012, 03:31 PM   #10
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That's your problem. You have way too much lighting combined with a super-long photoperiod, relatively small plant mass and are providing more nutrients than that plant mass can consume. Stopping CO2 just added to your problem.

Once you get your light/CO2/fert needs in check? Your green water will go away.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:35 PM   #11
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Many pet store people do not know the right answers.
1) If you need to add nitrifying bacteria use a product that contains Nitrospira. Does not sound like you have a problem that way, though. Zero NH3, NO2 = nitrifying bacteria are doing fine.
2) 10% water change once a week is way too little. I was regularly doing 50% water changes weekly, and it is just fine to do as large and as frequent water changes as you want. The trick is to use water that matches the tank water: Same GH, KH and TDS. With the fish you have somewhat softer water is fine. Neons and Platies have been raised in captivity for so long they accept a very wide range of conditions.
3) The 0 ppm for NO3 tells me the plants (and algae) are using up all the nutrients you are adding from fish food and whatever Flourish product you are using. (Which one is it, by the way?)

Here is what I would do:
Turn the CO2 back on, but start slowly, allow the fish to get used to it.
Do much larger water changes, perhaps 50% per day for a week or so.
Lift the light higher, or put a screen between the light and the tank.
Put the light on a timer and set it for a Siesta period: On for 6 hours, off for 2 then on for 6.
Add a complete fertilizer program like the Estimative Index.

If you need to leave the tank for a while do not feed. The fish will be fine.
If you cannot do this, then use the Tetra Gel type of food.

Get more Neon Tetras. They are a schooling fish and will be much happier with a dozen or so.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #12
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Default Ok.

Actions:
1) I raised the light to 25 inches.
2) Turned the CO2 back on.
3) Dosed with Tetra Algae control. (I know this is only going to kill the algae, I am looking to address the root issues.


Questions:
Should I reduce the photo period, add a siesta, or both?



Answers:
I am using Seachem Flourish Comprehensive. I am not adding individual macro elements. The substrate is Fluval Plant Stratum, and it's supposed to be fertilized.

Finally, thanks for ALL THE HELP. I will admit to lurking all year, and thinking I certainly didn't have anything to contribute, and by lurking didn't need to ask any questions. I am glad I did register as it's nice to finally be a part of the board that I have been reading all year. Thanks for your help. I'll try to contribute also.

Austin
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:26 PM   #13
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I'd probably cut back day length and add a siesta... and I wouldn't add any type of fertilizers until the green is gone.

(And... I wouldn't have added algaecide.)

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Old 12-29-2012, 05:40 PM   #14
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Just a note about your substrate: Fluval Plant Stratum contains next to nothing that plants use, so there's no real nutrient content there.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:29 PM   #15
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My first experience with GW was because there was zero nitrate in the water. Getting and dosing potassium nitrate solved the problem within 4 days as I very gingerly dosed 1/2 tsp in my 100 gallon tank each day. The Seachem you are using is not a complete fertilizer. Seachem does offer nitrate and phosphate fertilizers if you aren't ready to go all the way to trusting the forum's excellent stickied thread in the Fertilizer forum and get dry fertilizers.

I too run loads of light over my tank. Do try a 8 hour day. Try getting floating plants to shade the tank too. Your platies would love that. The other times I got GW I would let plants build up on the surface until the water finally cleared up.
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