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Old 12-20-2012, 04:30 AM   #31
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As people have mentioned that they have tanks set up for their berried shrimps how does the idea of the HOB breeder box sound? Would this further more help save baby shrimps?
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:05 AM   #32
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if the babies cant get into the main tank then yes.
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:01 PM   #33
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Thanks for the info,

Should I stick with having a 2.5-3 inch bed of substrate? As far as the plants go I am only going to replant the fast stems, Dwarf Sag, and mosses. Do any of you use wood in your shrimp tanks? I have a piece of Manzanita that has a bunch of Subwassertang attached to it. Do you think I should leave the branch the way it is or detach the Subwassertang and place it in the tank? I know that the wood decays over time and may cause nitrate, but I have an Otto in the tank so I left it in there for him.

At this time I don’t want to mess with a breeder box. I want to keep the KISS method

Also should I add anything to the bottom of the tank before adding the substrate? If so what is it and what are the benefits.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:20 PM   #34
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2.5 inches if fine for a layer.
be careful of replanting. don't replant stuff after the shrimp are in, and if you do then do it insanely carefully to not kick up any dirt. if the plant floats up the first time, leave it. its not worth losing your shrimp over a plant.

I use mopani wood with moss attached in mine and its fine. manzanita is even better.

for a simple, non-high tech planted tank you don't need to add anything to the bottom of the tank.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:06 PM   #35
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2.5 inches if fine for a layer.
be careful of replanting. don't replant stuff after the shrimp are in, and if you do then do it insanely carefully to not kick up any dirt. if the plant floats up the first time, leave it. its not worth losing your shrimp over a plant.

I use mopani wood with moss attached in mine and its fine. manzanita is even better.

for a simple, non-high tech planted tank you don't need to add anything to the bottom of the tank.

Thanks for your help Newman, by the way your shrimp bowl is AWESOME

I plan on having it all planted before it cycles. Once it is done…. I am not touching the scape. About the adding product to underneath the substrate, I was talking about bacteria starter. I am not adding anything to help plant growth where as the tank will be low tech.

Ok, so let’s talk about water parameters. I know a lot of people keep these shrimp in different parameters. I use a marine based RO/DI unit which I re mineralize with Mosura Mineral Plus “Ultra”. Since I will be starting over with straight RO/DI water can I get a good parameter to work towards?

TDS?
PH?
GH?
KH?
Temp?

I know there are many websites that state there parameters, but I would like to be safe.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:27 PM   #36
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I would suggest looking for a different remineralizer. Either the gH+ bee shrimp stuff or the Nutrafin chilid stuff people are having good success with both. The Mosura is expensive and it add's up over time.

Yes, you're right, people keep them in all different params and they are all over the map. Some people keep shrimp in water that others can't and there are obviously lots of small factors that we can't measure with a test kit or figure out and part of it, is just figuring out what works for your shrimp once you have them.

For a "range" though of what people keep them in

TDS: 100-500 I've seen although 100-150 seems to be the most common
pH: 5 to 7.5 I've seen although most go for 5-6.5ish
gH: 2-6 seems to be ideal regardless of the above 2.
kH: 0-1 seems to be the suggestion although I've never playing or tested a difference in a higher kH.
temp: 65-75 seems to be ideal of crystals. a bit cooler, they don't grow as fast, but they seem to live longer. Warmer temps gets them growing faster, but also more prone to bacteria infections.


If you ask 1,000 people on this site to fill out those 5 params that keep crystals, you will get 1,000 different answers, some of them varying greatly yet they may all have nice tanks full of shrimp.


Shrimp will adapt, as long as things are kept stable. That seems to be the biggest key. They will adapt to a lot of different water as long it doesn't change.

In nature, even though they are find in streams and ponds, that stream maybe 20,000 gallons in size and it takes a lot more outside influence to change the params in a large volume of water. Part of the reason just because it gets to below freezing outside, all the lakes don't freeze instantly like the sidewalks do. The large lake has lots of ambient heat and it takes a lot more than a few cold days to suck that heat out.

Read lots of posts and sites and things but take it all with a grain of salt. Try to set up and ideal tank and then adjust as needed when you get some shrimp. You will loose some, we all do, it's part of the process.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:43 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeToChKn View Post
I would suggest looking for a different remineralizer. Either the gH+ bee shrimp stuff or the Nutrafin chilid stuff people are having good success with both. The Mosura is expensive and it add's up over time.

Yes, you're right, people keep them in all different params and they are all over the map. Some people keep shrimp in water that others can't and there are obviously lots of small factors that we can't measure with a test kit or figure out and part of it, is just figuring out what works for your shrimp once you have them.

For a "range" though of what people keep them in

TDS: 100-500 I've seen although 100-150 seems to be the most common
pH: 5 to 7.5 I've seen although most go for 5-6.5ish
gH: 2-6 seems to be ideal regardless of the above 2.
kH: 0-1 seems to be the suggestion although I've never playing or tested a difference in a higher kH.
temp: 65-75 seems to be ideal of crystals. a bit cooler, they don't grow as fast, but they seem to live longer. Warmer temps gets them growing faster, but also more prone to bacteria infections.


If you ask 1,000 people on this site to fill out those 5 params that keep crystals, you will get 1,000 different answers, some of them varying greatly yet they may all have nice tanks full of shrimp.


Shrimp will adapt, as long as things are kept stable. That seems to be the biggest key. They will adapt to a lot of different water as long it doesn't change.

In nature, even though they are find in streams and ponds, that stream maybe 20,000 gallons in size and it takes a lot more outside influence to change the params in a large volume of water. Part of the reason just because it gets to below freezing outside, all the lakes don't freeze instantly like the sidewalks do. The large lake has lots of ambient heat and it takes a lot more than a few cold days to suck that heat out.

Read lots of posts and sites and things but take it all with a grain of salt. Try to set up and ideal tank and then adjust as needed when you get some shrimp. You will loose some, we all do, it's part of the process.

To be honest with you I believe all my parameters are there. The only thing I am doing different is using Peat to lower the ph and using Fluval Shrimp Stratum that has a tendency to raise the ph to about 6.8-7.0. I am going to make a purchase of the Amazon Aquasoil very soon so I can start the cycle.

I lost yet another SSS+CBS last night so there is 7 left. Although I don’t expect them to live, I am going to put them in a 5 gallon bucket. I will put a HOB with Purigen and some seeded bio media, a small heater just in case it gets to cold in my house, and some moss to keep them grazing. I think they are going to be in there for a long time.

When I use the new soil are there any weekly water changes or do I just wait it out and keep all the original water in there? I have never cycled Aquasoil before.
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:01 AM   #38
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you can leave the water in there and start WCs after it cycles and you need to dilute the high nitrates.
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:06 AM   #39
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I would look at the other ADA soils instead of Amazonia as they don't leech ammonia.
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:34 AM   #40
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I guarantee you if you put them in a 5g tank (bare bottom) and use Nutrafin African Cichlid Conditioner (!50-200 TDS) mixed with 100% RO water, your shrimp will stop dying. Do this and redo their tank. Get ADA AS and call it a day. Keep it simple, not too many plants, mainly moss and you'll be gravy.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:16 AM   #41
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Quote:
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I would look at the other ADA soils instead of Amazonia as they don't leech ammonia.
they don't?
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeToChKn View Post
I would suggest looking for a different remineralizer. Either the gH+ bee shrimp stuff or the Nutrafin chilid stuff people are having good success with both. The Mosura is expensive and it add's up over time.

Yes, you're right, people keep them in all different params and they are all over the map. Some people keep shrimp in water that others can't and there are obviously lots of small factors that we can't measure with a test kit or figure out and part of it, is just figuring out what works for your shrimp once you have them.

For a "range" though of what people keep them in

TDS: 100-500 I've seen although 100-150 seems to be the most common
pH: 5 to 7.5 I've seen although most go for 5-6.5ish
gH: 2-6 seems to be ideal regardless of the above 2.
kH: 0-1 seems to be the suggestion although I've never playing or tested a difference in a higher kH.
temp: 65-75 seems to be ideal of crystals. a bit cooler, they don't grow as fast, but they seem to live longer. Warmer temps gets them growing faster, but also more prone to bacteria infections.


If you ask 1,000 people on this site to fill out those 5 params that keep crystals, you will get 1,000 different answers, some of them varying greatly yet they may all have nice tanks full of shrimp.


Shrimp will adapt, as long as things are kept stable. That seems to be the biggest key. They will adapt to a lot of different water as long it doesn't change.

In nature, even though they are find in streams and ponds, that stream maybe 20,000 gallons in size and it takes a lot more outside influence to change the params in a large volume of water. Part of the reason just because it gets to below freezing outside, all the lakes don't freeze instantly like the sidewalks do. The large lake has lots of ambient heat and it takes a lot more than a few cold days to suck that heat out.

Read lots of posts and sites and things but take it all with a grain of salt. Try to set up and ideal tank and then adjust as needed when you get some shrimp. You will loose some, we all do, it's part of the process.
Very nice post! Well done!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:41 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedie408 View Post
I guarantee you if you put them in a 5g tank (bare bottom) and use Nutrafin African Cichlid Conditioner (!50-200 TDS) mixed with 100% RO water, your shrimp will stop dying. Do this and redo their tank. Get ADA AS and call it a day. Keep it simple, not too many plants, mainly moss and you'll be gravy.

Hey Speedie,
It’s nice to hear from you. How are you doing? It sickens me to say that I lost the female Black Impact…. I feel like an idiot.

Is the Nutrafin African Cichlid Conditioner the new way of going about adding minerals to a shrimp tank? I am always behind the trends lol. I just bought a bottle of the Mosura Mineral Plus Ultra. I thought that was a really good one for bee shrimp. Speedie, I still have an issue with my RO/DI coming out at 7 ph. It comes out at 8.2 from the tap. I will need to still put some peat in the HOB for the remaining shrimp.

Does anyone know just about how much ADA AS to get? I need to make the order today.

Thanks everyone for your help
Don
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:21 PM   #44
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Hey Speedie,
It’s nice to hear from you. How are you doing? It sickens me to say that I lost the female Black Impact…. I feel like an idiot.

Is the Nutrafin African Cichlid Conditioner the new way of going about adding minerals to a shrimp tank? I am always behind the trends lol. I just bought a bottle of the Mosura Mineral Plus Ultra. I thought that was a really good one for bee shrimp. Speedie, I still have an issue with my RO/DI coming out at 7 ph. It comes out at 8.2 from the tap. I will need to still put some peat in the HOB for the remaining shrimp.

Does anyone know just about how much ADA AS to get? I need to make the order today.

Thanks everyone for your help
Don
Don,

What's up bro! I started using that stuff after my Taiwan breeder told me that's what he uses on all his tanks exclusively. That alone means A LOT! Ever since, I've been using it for all my tanks and they're doing awesome. I've been letting people know about it and many folks have had positive results with it as well. Only cost $16 on Amazon for a 500ml bottle so it's hella cheap!

Sucks you lost that beautiful Black Impact momma. You should've redid that tank a long time ago bro... live n learn though. We all do.

You're RO ph seems normal. What's your RO TDS?

Once you start using ADA AS accompanied by a UGF and a handful of leaf litter (I have a set of AZOO pipes if you want them), your PH will drop to about 6 - 6.5 which is perfect for CBS/CRS. Keep the TDS around 150-200 using NACC mixed with your pure RO and do 20% WC every other week. That's it! Later as the tank gets more mature, you just top off regularly with RO (no remineralizer), and do less and less water changes. Maybe once a month if you feel like it. Simple as that.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:47 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by speedie408 View Post
Don,

What's up bro! I started using that stuff after my Taiwan breeder told me that's what he uses on all his tanks exclusively. That alone means A LOT! Ever since, I've been using it for all my tanks and they're doing awesome. I've been letting people know about it and many folks have had positive results with it as well. Only cost $16 on Amazon for a 500ml bottle so it's hella cheap!

Sucks you lost that beautiful Black Impact momma. You should've redid that tank a long time ago bro... live n learn though. We all do.

You're RO ph seems normal. What's your RO TDS?

Once you start using ADA AS accompanied by a UGF and a handful of leaf litter (I have a set of AZOO pipes if you want them), your PH will drop to about 6 - 6.5 which is perfect for CBS/CRS. Keep the TDS around 150-200 using NACC mixed with your pure RO and do 20% WC every other week. That's it! Later as the tank gets more mature, you just top off regularly with RO (no remineralizer), and do less and less water changes. Maybe once a month if you feel like it. Simple as that.


Thanks for not calling me a moron Speedie…. Lol.
If I go with the underground filter (AZOO Pipes) do I hook it up to my canister or use a power head? If it is a power head which one is a good flow?
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