Want to buy Greg Watson ferts,but
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:08 AM   #1
maverick2402
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Want to buy Greg Watson ferts,but


I am looking at buying Greg Watsons premix,but I have no idea what I am looking at.I am currently dosing with all of the Seachem products that follow:
Flourish
Trace
Excel
Iron
Nitrogen
Potassium
Phosphorus
I dose them as suggested on the chart that can be downloaded on Seachems website.If I do get Greg Watson's premix do i mix it in a bottle and dose as needed.
I have a 20 gal. tank with pressurized CO2 running at about 40 ppm and a power compact light with 65 watts if anyone needs to know.Like said I am completely clueless about what to but an das to how much I even downloaded the dosing calculator from Chuck Gadds site but have no idea what to do .The only thing I know how to work is the CO2 calculator.Any help would be a great help to me as I don't want to get the ferts and screw up because it could be an expensive screw up with the amount of money I have wrapped up in this tank.
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:18 AM   #2
bigstick120
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Skip the premix and get
1lb of KNO3-this is your nitrogen source
1lb of KH2PO4-your phosphorus source
1lb CSM+B-your iron and trace mix
and maybe 1lb of K2SO4- potassium
That will last a long time on a 20 gallon and check out the sticky in the ferts section on dosing. There is a suggestion for dosing a 20 gallon I beleive.

Hope that helps
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:25 AM   #3
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Here is how to dose your tank

50%H20 change
1/4Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/16+Tsp-KH2P04 3x aweek
1/16+Tsp K2S04 3x a week
5ml Trace 3x a week
1-2ml Fe/Iron 3x a week

This is the EI method you must do 50% waterchange weekly. You may also have to change your amounts based on plant mass, fish load, lighting and CO2 but its a start
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Old 01-17-2006, 06:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick2402
I am currently dosing with all of the Seachem products
I'm a big fan of the entire Seachem family of products ... so if you are currently happy with what you are currently doing ... I would ask the question - Why Change?

There are lots of "right ways" to do things ... and certainly, the Seachem family of products is an excellent way of doing things ... so if there isn't a reason to change, one very serious option to consider is to continue to use that line of products.

Increasingly, we are seeing a lot of the commercial companies start to respond better to the needs of our hobby (Seachem has been doing a wonderful job of doing this for a long time) ... for example, there is an entire Kent Bontanica line of products (I have no personal experience with them nor do I sell them) ... but they are worth checking out too ... the point I am trying to make is that what you are currently doing may be the best solution for you right now ...

Just because I might use dry ferts doesn't mean that a commercial solution like the Seachem family of products might not be the perfect solution for you ...

If you do decide to make a change ... BigStick gave you great recommendations ...

Greg
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Old 01-17-2006, 12:12 PM   #5
tazcrash69
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You may want to get 2 lbs of the potassium. You will go through this faster than anything else, and it doesn't add much if anything to the shipping.
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Old 01-17-2006, 02:21 PM   #6
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I'd dose more than 1/16th tsp of K2SO4...but it does depend a lot on how much KNO3 you have to dose.

If you have lots of NO3 naturally due to fish waste, you'll use a lot more K2SO4. If you NO3 always seems low, you'll dose more KNO3, providing you with enough K, that 1/16th of K2SO4 might be sufficient.
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:22 PM   #7
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I will agree with Bigstick's recomendations, but offer my personal experiance as well. I did not bother to test my tap at first. Turns out my tap is between 1-2 ppm of PO4. Since this is my target PO4 anyway, I no longer dose it. Since I am not dosing the K associated with that PO4, I started having problems with some plants. Adding a decent amount of K2SO4 fixed that problem. Once I did both of those changes, by KNO3 absorption shot threw the roof.

Moral, EI can minimize water testing, but testing is still very helpful to figure out problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigstick120
Skip the premix and get
1lb of KNO3-this is your nitrogen source
1lb of KH2PO4-your phosphorus source
1lb CSM+B-your iron and trace mix
and maybe 1lb of K2SO4- potassium
That extra lb of K2SO4 is cheep - just get it if you order.
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgc
I will agree with Bigstick's recomendations, but offer my personal experiance as well. I did not bother to test my tap at first. Turns out my tap is between 1-2 ppm of PO4. Since this is my target PO4 anyway, I no longer dose it. Since I am not dosing the K associated with that PO4, I started having problems with some plants. Adding a decent amount of K2SO4 fixed that problem. Once I did both of those changes, by KNO3 absorption shot threw the roof.

Moral, EI can minimize water testing, but testing is still very helpful to figure out problems.


That extra lb of K2SO4 is cheep - just get it if you order.
If you change half of the water once a week, adding water with 1 - 2 ppm phosphates in it, you are fertilizing with phosphate once a week. Within a day or two, the plants are probably using up that phosphate, leaving the water with near zero phosphate. Therefore, the water changes bring the tank to .5 to 1 ppm phosphate once a week. Is that good enough for you? I think you still need to add phosphate.
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Old 01-17-2006, 04:32 PM   #9
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I agree with the theory of EI, but am just suggesting that every source water and every tank is different. My water is high in PO4 and my plants (when happy) are Nitrate sponges.

I was using a 2:1 rather than a 4:1 NO3:PO4 ratio with my fert. As such I was dosing 4.4 ppm 3 times a week. By dosing 13.2 ppm a week, with EI, I should of maxed at 26ppm (assuming no absorption). Testing indicated that I peeked at 30-40 ppm PO4. The difference between my measured ammount and that is probably attributed to doing slightly less than a 50% change (40% change would have maxed me at 2.5 the weekly dose - roughly 33ppm), plus my water having 1-2 ppm. Perhaps my bioload is also contribituing to my PO4 levels.

Testing several times throughout the week has shown me that my PO4 has not dropped below 1 ppm (perhaps due to bioload? Phosphates in the fish food?). Meanwhile, I have increased my dosing from 9 ppm 3x weekly to 12ppm 3x weekly and am still not having more than 10ppm right before my water change (which is about 36 hrs from my last macro dosing).

Today is water change day, I will test PO4 and NO3 again tonight to see what my end of week levels are at-My observations above were after 4 weeks of this testing. I removed a lot of my fastest growing stems last week, so absorption may be down.
----
Testing showed a that PO4 was a little low (.5ppm rather than 1ppm), while NO3 was resting at 10ppm.
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:26 PM   #10
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I guess my main reason into thinking about switching to your product is the cost and th efact that I am not sure my plants are getting everything out of what I put into the tank,like some of my plants have gaps between the layers of leaves on the stems and I see that thats is a nutrient deficency of some sort but I don't want to keep dumping the Seachem in there if its just waisting my money and not gaining anything where as I see everyone that uses your product is very happy.I respect very much what you are saying and thats why I put it out there in the forum..
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWatson
I'm a big fan of the entire Seachem family of products ... so if you are currently happy with what you are currently doing ... I would ask the question - Why Change?

There are lots of "right ways" to do things ... and certainly, the Seachem family of products is an excellent way of doing things ... so if there isn't a reason to change, one very serious option to consider is to continue to use that line of products.

Increasingly, we are seeing a lot of the commercial companies start to respond better to the needs of our hobby (Seachem has been doing a wonderful job of doing this for a long time) ... for example, there is an entire Kent Bontanica line of products (I have no personal experience with them nor do I sell them) ... but they are worth checking out too ... the point I am trying to make is that what you are currently doing may be the best solution for you right now ...

Just because I might use dry ferts doesn't mean that a commercial solution like the Seachem family of products might not be the perfect solution for you ...

If you do decide to make a change ... BigStick gave you great recommendations ...

Greg
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:12 PM   #11
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Seachem is good, but gets expensive for a large tank. That is why I switched to your line of products, Greg. I must say that compared to Seachem, I am noticing equal or better growth with your products dosed correctly.
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:49 PM   #12
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There's a seachem rep that hangs out at www.plant-geek.net
I've told him I think Seachem needs to put out a 'Pro' line of ferts for us high light people, especially a stronger version of Excel.
They can't market excel as an algicide, but I've seen its core chemical, gluteraldehyde, at a 50% purity, used on a 125gal tank at 1mL every other day, and my GOD was taht tank amazing! Not a spec of algae of any kind...not even green spot on the glass.
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:55 PM   #13
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Gluteraldehyde - is that the cold sterilizer that hospitals use on their machinery?

Can it be bought anywhere, it would be interesting to try this instead of CO2 or Excel.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:59 AM   #14
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I would get KNO3 for both N and K source. Use Flourish for your traces and Fe, many people have found out that they get better results with Flourish than with CSM+B. Use KH2PO4 for your P and K source. That's all you need. No need for all that extra K.
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Old 01-18-2006, 06:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by putty
Gluteraldehyde - is that the cold sterilizer that hospitals use on their machinery?

Can it be bought anywhere, it would be interesting to try this instead of CO2 or Excel.
http://bioexpress.com/index.html?wsc...00206000206410

But it is much more expensive than Excel; it says it is extremely corrosive and poisonous.
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