LnD 150G Aquascape.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:48 PM   #1
Lnd
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LnD 150G Aquascape.


I've been doing saltwater fish tank for the last 3 years, but ever since I started looking at this year IALPC 2012 submission I had the itch to start freshwater back up.

So these past few weeks I've been busy tearing down my saltwater tank and planning to set up a freshwater tank again.

Tank - 150G Rimless, measured 48"x36"x20" with overflow.

Sump - 36"l x 20"w x 15"h

The sump have 4 chambers total, and the inside will be lit up via LED.

First Chamber will be use for mechanical filtration, essentially I will just stuff it with filter floss to catch detritus.

Second Chamber will be filled with Lava rock or so Seachem Matrix for biological filtration.

Third Chamber is undecided, but I can grow plants in there if need be.

Light - Ecotech Radion XR-30w (2)

I will be turning down the blue LED in the radion, using only green / red / white. Of course unless blue have some kind of benefit for plants (I don't remember if that's true for freshwater or not). But I will be upgrading the LED puck when new one comes out to get more light over the tank.

Pump - Reef Octopus Water Blaster 5000 or 7000

CO2 - 20lbs tank, undecided on regulator

Soil - ADA New Amazonia

Decorative Sand - ADA La Plata 9L (6)

Rocks - 100-200lbs of Seiryu Stone

Plants so far - Baby Tear, Fissiden / Rose moss (small leafy moss type), Pennywort or similar.

I'm still fairly rough on freshwater plants name so I will decide as I go, but overall theme will be small plants, so there'll be stem tank in this aquascape

Controller - Reefkeeper Lite 3 - Use for measure Temperature / PH and controlling some of the equipment

Currently I'm still in the process of breaking the tank down, should be complete in a week or two. Then I will have tap water in there with Vinegar to wash out Coralline Algae / calcium deposit / whatever else that've grown in the tank. And prep it for freshwater.

Picture of tank when I first got it



as a SPS tank

(Old Pic)






As a Macroalgae Tank





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Old 08-04-2012, 08:20 PM   #2
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wor! that's a very fancy saltwater tank. Hope to see your New Scape with the Seiryu Stone.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:13 PM   #3
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excited to see this develop, was a great tank before, excited what you can do with all that $$$ worth of stone
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:21 PM   #4
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Your saltwater tank was one of the prettiest ones I've ever seen. Looking forward to seeing what you can do with a planted tank. Looks like you're willing to put good money into the project.

Check the size of the 20lbs CO2 cylinder to be sure it fits inside your cabinet with enough working room for your regulator and all. Personally, I have found it most convenient to have two 10lbs cylinders per tank. That way I can have a spare filled and ready to go the instant the first one runs out. I've been caught more than once with the cylinder running out just as the store that does my refills closes for the weekend, forcing the tank to go without for at least 2 days straight. With a spare cylinder, it's never a problem. I just swap out cylinders and the tank is up and running immediately. Then I have plenty of time to get the empty one refilled when it fits my schedule. CO2 refills are cheap so you don't really save much money by filling up a 20lbs cylinder instead of two 10lbs cylinders. Just an idea for you to consider.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Complexity View Post
Your saltwater tank was one of the prettiest ones I've ever seen. Looking forward to seeing what you can do with a planted tank. Looks like you're willing to put good money into the project.

Check the size of the 20lbs CO2 cylinder to be sure it fits inside your cabinet with enough working room for your regulator and all. Personally, I have found it most convenient to have two 10lbs cylinders per tank. That way I can have a spare filled and ready to go the instant the first one runs out. I've been caught more than once with the cylinder running out just as the store that does my refills closes for the weekend, forcing the tank to go without for at least 2 days straight. With a spare cylinder, it's never a problem. I just swap out cylinders and the tank is up and running immediately. Then I have plenty of time to get the empty one refilled when it fits my schedule. CO2 refills are cheap so you don't really save much money by filling up a 20lbs cylinder instead of two 10lbs cylinders. Just an idea for you to consider.
Thank you very much for your compliment!

I do plan to get 2 Co2 cylinder just in case one goes out. The Co2 tank is going into a separate stand that's behind the main tank, I am trying to figure out how to get the Co2 into the main tank at the moment without using a diffuser. I was thinking of putting the co2 line right where the pump is so it sucks up the Co2 and split it into tiny bubbles before going into the display.

On a site note, I know freshwater won't need that much flow. And people suggest 10x of total volume turnover per hour is good. But for my tank, that'd be about 1500gph. I just worry that it might be too much for fish / plants in the tank.

The pump I was thinking of getting have 1300 GPH (5000 model) or 1800 GPH (7000 model). But with the Water head pressure, I think it will be

850-900 GPH (5000 model) and 1000-1150 GPH (7000 model). Would the 5000 model be better since it will give out just enough? Or should I just get the 7000 model to get better overall flow
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:55 PM   #6
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Wherever you put your CO2 cylinder, make sure you can easily view the regulator gauges since you'll need to know when the cylinder starts to run out of CO2. Depending on how you have your system setup, it's possible to have what's known as an "end of tank dump" (EOTD) which happens right as the cylinder runs out. The pressure drops to the point the regulator can no longer properly register the CO2 which causes the regulator to allow the remaining CO2 to dump into the tank all at once, gassing the fish, killing them in the process. A good quality dual stage regulator can prevent this. This is also less of a problem with open top tanks with good surface agitation (however, surface agitation also degasses CO2 from the tank so we usually try to keep the agitation pretty minimal). Other than EOTD concerns, you'll want to keep an eye on the working pressure and the bubbles per second being injected into the tank, making adjustments as needed. So it's best to be able to readily view the regulator gauges.

To get the CO2 into the tank, I'd recommend using a reactor. You can buy reactors on the market, but to be honest, the DIY reactors are generally better. There are two popular styles. I'm running the older style, called the Rex Griggs style (named after the guy who first designed it). I'd recommend this one for a canister with a high flow rate. A newer design, called the Cerges reactor, is very popular. While I have not used one, from what I've read, I think it's best used with a lower flow rate canister. Both designs are inexpensive and easy to make. You can customize them to fit your needs. For example, the higher your flow rate, the longer/fatter you'll want to make them so you don't get any CO2 bubbles in the tank. The goal is for the CO2 to be completely combined with the water before it enters the tank so you won't see any actual bubbles. CO2 bubbles are generally wasteful (and many find them highly distracting; although, some like the bubbly look).

Planted tanks truly do need 10x the flow. On my 75g and 90g tanks, I have two Rena XP4 canisters which are rated at 450gph. So that's 900gph for each tank, making it exactly 10x for my 90g and greater than 10x for my 75g. It's not too much. I have even higher flow rates on my two 29g tanks.

There are a number of reasons you need so much flow. For one, you need to push the CO2 all over the tank, from top to bottom, side to side, and all between. This won't be hard in a tank with just a few short plants, but when you get a tank that's fully planted and grown out, the plants become obstacles that block the flow. If you don't have a strong flow, you won't be able to push the water all around the tank. You'll get a lot of dead spots in which the CO2 won't reach and in which lots of crud will accumulate.

The crud in a planted tank is another reason why you need so much flow. Planted tanks always have a lot of crud. Leaves from plants break off, float around, and then begin to deteriorate. Again, if you have just a few short plants, this is no big deal. But if you have a fully planted tank of mature plants, you need a strong flow to kick up those leaves into the water column and push them around long and far enough to finally make it to the filter intake. Otherwise, you'll end up with a tank full of mush which is not healthy. And forget trying to vacuum it all out because the plants become obstacles for that, as well. They trap the leaves and crud.

When you're considering the water flow, be sure you're thinking not just in terms of pushing the water around, but also in terms of actually filtering the water you push around. These are two different considerations. You not only need good flow, but you need good filtration. I prefer to use dual canisters on my tanks. Coming from a saltwater background, you may prefer to use a wet/dry setup. A wet/dry setup may create a few extra challenges with injecting CO2 (the agitation can outgas the CO2), but others have done it successfully so I'm sure you can manage it just fine. A wet/dry filter would be excellent as far as cleaning the water so this may be the right option for you.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:46 AM   #7
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The green creates added value.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globali View Post
The green creates added value.
What do you mean?

And I will keep your suggestion in mind Complexity! I was more or less worry about fish being bother by the high flow coming from the return, rather than not having enough flow around the tank.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnd View Post
What do you mean?
I think he was referring to your switch from saltwater to planted.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnd View Post
I was more or less worry about fish being bother by the high flow coming from the return, rather than not having enough flow around the tank.
The same principles apply. The plants block the flow so the fish aren't blown around as much as you might think. However, it also depends on how you configure the output. Distributing the flow through a spray bar has a much more gentle effect (and I would argue, more effective effect) than if it came out of a single opening.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:01 AM   #11
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Been a VERY slow and uneventful month. Finally emptied out my tank on 8/24, tossed out 200lbs++ of sand and over 150g of Saltwater. Here was my process

Question - I wanted to separate the white sand from ADA Amazonia soil, what is suggested to use as a separation that's easy to get and flexible / bendable?

- Empty out all Saltwater from Tank and sump
- Refill with Tap water and about 4g of Vinegar to soften all the shell / growth
- Wait 2 days (stench was crazy...)
- Empty after another cleaning to get shells / calcium deposit, suction most of the sand out
- Refill and add another 4g of Vinegar
- Clean Sump / Tank and drain again
- Refill with water one last time for another wipe down and empty completely

The sump is currently sitting in my yard soaking in vinegar to get the last of the filth / growth out.. There's places that's inaccessible so I have to really soften it and remove with a long tong wrapped in a velcro type material to get it out. Main tank is clean though! Hoping to start aquascaping soon.

3 weeks ago


2 weeks ago


Today


And some of my side things

Trying to grow (Died but came back again)


And newly set up CRS tank (Set up about 2 hours ago), no water til moss take ahold of the wood
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:10 AM   #12
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Been a while, had alot of school and been trying to acquire this beauty



So I've been relatively busy

However I did manage to do some aquascape. Unfortunately due to recent budget constraint (And a bit of physics constraint). I couldn't do tall rock scape like I wanted without needing to do very deep slope in the back of the tank. So this is the aquascape, I might do minor changes to the back (White sand) still deciding.

Advice and criticism are welcome!! Thank you for viewing


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Old 11-28-2012, 07:59 PM   #13
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Been extremely busy these past months. So tank still just sitting there, I'm planning to fill it up hopefully by new year.

I was thinking of 100+ Neon Green Tetra... But I recently saw a tank filled with colorful guppy. So I might switch to that

would it be a problem if I mix guppies together? I was thinking of getting 5-10 of each type and just let them breed in the tank

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/a...cfm?c=830+1100
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #14
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Or just endler and lyretail

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...96&pcatid=1896

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...84&pcatid=1584
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #15
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looks awesome! i like it and it could look really awesome!

as for the guppies, getting a bunch of different kinds and letting them go crazy is fine! before too long you will have more guppies then you know what to do with!!

the only downside to guppies is that they dont school, so they dont compliment most scapes as well as a schooling fish.


what are you planning on plant wise?
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