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Old 11-14-2012, 11:04 PM   #16
drazend
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Thanks much! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for!

And YES, that is the lady he was talking about, it Is an incredible aquarium.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DogFish View Post
Maybe your friend was talking about this build?
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185857

I think either of you plans could work. I build a rimless 41gl that was
cut out an old 70 with 3/8" glass.

From what I've learned I'd tell you not to run more than 24" length without a brace if the glass is 1/4" @ 24" T. If you drop the height to 16 you would be safe with 3' between cross bracing.

I think for plants your 1st idea might be best. You could cut up the glass not being used for corner braces. Look at CrazyDaz's 200tank


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Old 11-14-2012, 11:39 PM   #17
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Combing 2 pieces for the sides or the front is not going to work at all. The seam will be the weak point and burst half way through filling it, if that. It may work in the linked build, but she only did it on the bottom, not the sides. Silicone 2 pieces of glass next to each other and watch how easy you can bend it.

Instead of being able to setup 2 55gals for your fish and inverts, you are going to have 10 pieces of glass and no tank. Be happy with the 2 55gals, work on a bridge system, save for a new tank, something but don't destroy 2 tanks in something that isn't going to work.
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:38 AM   #18
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Ditto GeToChKn:
A bridge or some other system that keeps the tanks structurally sound is best. Trying to join glass in a flat plane is not a good way to make a strong wall that you need for an aquarium. As a bottom you could get away with it because not only do you set the 2 pieces next to each other, but you also get more glass to sandwich the joint for strength. That would look really ugly, though, for sides, and even worse for the front.

Maybe work on the water fall idea.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:04 AM   #19
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Thanks, I appreciate the advice. These tanks were pretty much being disposed of originally, I found them and took them under my wing... I'm not against the water bridge idea, but it would be a last resort. If I end up not joining them into a larger tank I will likely leave them as separate environments.

I just like solving puzzles and tackling challenges, this it's definitely a challenge (and I'm quite handy). I would never do anything unless I knew for certain it wouldn't explode all over the place. And I would never bring it inside without thoroughly testing first. I would also have a backup plan if something DID go wrong, I can't have my fish in 5 gallon buckets while I try to figure out what to do with them

But I like these comments too, they keep me thinking
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeToChKn View Post
Combing 2 pieces for the sides or the front is not going to work at all. The seam will be the weak point and burst half way through filling it, if that. It may work in the linked build, but she only did it on the bottom, not the sides. Silicone 2 pieces of glass next to each other and watch how easy you can bend it.

Instead of being able to setup 2 55gals for your fish and inverts, you are going to have 10 pieces of glass and no tank. Be happy with the 2 55gals, work on a bridge system, save for a new tank, something but don't destroy 2 tanks in something that isn't going to work.


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Old 11-15-2012, 08:25 PM   #20
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I drew this crudely but the combination design could possibly do the best for what you're wanting to do. It would be the same as the bridge design only you'll be attaching them together with out the bridge(oviously).

One important thing to note is if you do combine them like that then you'll will want to redo the rim around both bottom and top to retain the rigidity. Also you'll want to seal where the two tanks meet in the middle by applying a small beade of silicon between both tanks and also applying a smoothed beade on the edges once the are joined.


This is of course assuming they're square to begin with. If they aren't square I would go with the acrylic bridge design.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:50 PM   #21
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No Guts....No Glory!~

The best part about Izabella87's tank is she didn't listen to all the
people that would Poo-Poo'ed her creativity.

I've thinking about your puzzle combinations. I think this might
be possible. Replace the 4 side pieces that are 12x24" with two
of the long pc 24x48". Use the 4 - 12x24" in the middle of the bottom.
This will give you a 48x48x24" tank that will hold 239gl.

If I was going to try this I would build a base from cabinet grade
hardwood plywood with a 1x3" frame around the base. The frame
be decretive not structural. The base will re-enforce all the bottom
joints.

I'd also use yoga mats between the Plywood aquarium base and the
tank stand just to help to keep the tank level.

Good luck which ever path you choose. Please consider doing a journal
on this project..
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:43 PM   #22
fplata
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Just keep physics in mind. You can not cheat physics and 100 gallons of water weight 800 pounds and create lots of pressure. be creative and do your research. No disrespect, but the no guts no glory approach might be near sighted when building tanks
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:18 AM   #23
Diana
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I like DogFish's idea: No seams on the sides, and lots of support where you are making seams, where it does not show.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:22 AM   #24
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Good luck, I hope it works. But just out of curiousity; how's your insurance?
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:37 AM   #25
drazend
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Thanks for all the comments guys, I'll have to look over the 48" x 48" suggestion, sounds interesting. And no worries to those warning me of the potential disaster, I would only do this if I can scientifically prove it would work. I usually err on the side of caution when it comes to these things. I know a few people that have physics degrees and or are a structural engineer, so I could run my final plans by them before even testing the ideas.

Rest assured I will do a journal, but with the given possibilities, I may have to postpone any builds add I hope to be moving soon, and don't fancy moving a newly built 48" x 48" tank

These are great ideas and comments from everyone, and please don't hesitate to call my stupid from wanting to try, I need those Rio keep me in line some times all comments are appreciated and welcome, I love you guys and respect your knowledge!

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Old 11-16-2012, 01:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
I like DogFish's idea: No seams on the sides, and lots of support where you are making seams, where it does not show.
Thank you.

As an after thought, you could run a 2" strip across the top of the seams of the two original bottom 12x48" panes were they will butt up to the 4- 12x24" panes to reduce you lateral flex point. Although I do feel the plywood sheet underneath will be enough. That will be further re-enforced by stand top.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:53 AM   #27
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Honestly the more I think about it the combination probably wouldn't serve too well when considering glass thickness it would be very very fragile. If it wasn't on a solid base just a sag in the floor or stand over time with all of the weight would find a weak spot and come crashing out not to mention something bumping into one of the long panes. As far as the seams go at the joint of the two tanks like I vaguely showed above; you could easily hide with proper scaping and display point of the aquarium.

Glass thickness is key to combining them.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27814

The guy in the link above provided great information in his build journal.

If the glass is too thin then I would consider making a bridge.

A 6x6 trough at the top leaving a 2-4in gap between the tanks would be better but you'll want to try and save the rim around the top. I personally wouldn't try going bigger than that. I'd like to add that if you did the bridge then I would beef up the glass or acrylic(which ever you choice you make) thickness and use the correct silicone definitely do not cheap out on that part.

Like I said before it just comes down to the thickness of the glass.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:33 AM   #28
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Wow, everyone here is full of great knowledge and supportive scenarios!

I few other things i should mention. I am not against building a frame for the tank to cover up and/or add to supports along the seams, edges, or the top/bottom. I have access to some free Osage Orange. I'm not terribly concerned about having a thin bead of silicone on the seams -meaning I am willing to do a large bead to ensure stability- , i'll do what it takes to make it safe if i go down that route. Dont get me wrong, i will make is as attractive as possible too

Last edited by drazend; 11-16-2012 at 03:36 PM.. Reason: added clarification to my statement on silicone seams
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #29
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Here's another thread you may want to check out, though the thread is old, you may be able to contact the members and get more input. I posted to bring the thread back up to the top so maybe someone will post some updates.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/v...?f=30&t=172228
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drazend View Post
....I few other things i should mention. I am not against building a frame for the tank to cover up and/or add to supports along the seams, edges, or the top/bottom. I have access to some free Osage Orange...

I Love/Hate that Wood. I believe it is the most dense North American Hardwood. I have in in the riser of two of my Recurve Bows and as grips for my S & W 325NG .45acp revolver.

I've made a few small hunting related items out of it. What a headache to work with. I think I actually dulled out a File on it.

I do like how it changes color over time too.
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