The solenoid valve chase, after Parker H3L - Page 3
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:38 PM   #31
Darkblade48
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I installed Parker H3L about 2 weeks ago and it seems this metering valve would not fully close, I tried aligning the two ZEROs on the handle but the bubble rate would not fully stop.

The bubble rate I have currently is good even if this H3L would not close fully. But, I just wonder it cant be adjusted to zero rate bubble.

Is there anything I missed?
Mine seems to close fine. Perhaps the vernier on yours is misaligned?
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:01 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Mine seems to close fine. Perhaps the vernier on yours is misaligned?


I open the knob and the zero reading aligns with the zero on the dial.
Maybe a debris is stuck inside the metering valve.

Last edited by herns; 11-23-2012 at 07:11 PM.. Reason: edit
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:47 PM   #33
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I open the knob and the zero reading aligns with the zero on the dial.
Maybe a debris is stuck inside the metering valve.
No.

You just need to adjust the zero setting to the actual closed position of the valve. It should have come with the necessary allen wrench to so along with the instructions.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:59 PM   #34
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Quick update. With 400mA power supply, 2822 still gets very hot. I had a Clippard solenoid once and it also was very hot and worked just fine...

100mA power supply coming next week. Hopefully by that time Bettatail can test the actual current.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:58 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba_Shrimp View Post
Quick update. With 400mA power supply, 2822 still gets very hot. I had a Clippard solenoid once and it also was very hot and worked just fine...

100mA power supply coming next week. Hopefully by that time Bettatail can test the actual current.
Thanks for the update, but would the 100mA be enough to power that solenoid?
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #36
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Thanks for the update, but would the 100mA be enough to power that solenoid?
According to the product specification sheet, the Burkert 2822 consumes either 1W or 2W (depending on model), so we can calculate ~83 mA current draw for the 2W model.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:59 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba_Shrimp View Post
Quick update. With 400mA power supply, 2822 still gets very hot. I had a Clippard solenoid once and it also was very hot and worked just fine...

100mA power supply coming next week. Hopefully by that time Bettatail can test the actual current.
need to dig out the multimeter, put it somewhere after I measured the actual current on some other solenoids a while ago....

and a clippard solenoid does run HOT, it is about 6watts, the 0.67 watt clippard mouse is the one that feels nothing under room temp.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:06 PM   #38
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Update on power supplies. Instead of 100mA power supply I received 300mA one from Transtronics as they do not sell 10mA anymore.

Tested 2822 with the following two PSUs after 3 hours of work:

1) Jameco 24v DC 400mA, UL listed (eBay)
2) OEM model AD-2430L - 24V DC 300mA, UL listed (Transtronics)

With Jameco, 2822 gets very hot, can't touch. With OEM from Transtronics, 2822 stays a bit warm but not hot at all. No issues with hodling or touching it.

While 2822 was powered I measured the input voltage on solenoid (output from power supply) for both units. With Jameco the voltage reading was 27.2v and with OEM 24.8v. This may explain why 2822 gets hot with Jameco power supply.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba_Shrimp View Post
While 2822 was powered I measured the input voltage on solenoid (output from power supply) for both units. With Jameco the voltage reading was 27.2v and with OEM 24.8v. This may explain why 2822 gets hot with Jameco power supply.
An extra 2.4V will make it that hot? That doesn't seem right to me...
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:16 PM   #40
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Most electronics are ok with a 10% +/- range of voltage and current requirements and if its a 24 volt transformer then yes that 2.8 volts will make a huge difference. Doesn't seem like much but it is.

Anyone know what the current needed to energize that coil is???
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:44 PM   #41
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darkblade48 mentioned it, it is 83mA,

another possible reason is that first power adapter doesn't putout the right amount of current according to the using unit(83mA on Burkert 2822), current is the main reason of heat, not voltage.
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:33 AM   #42
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I wonder what the resistance of his coil is??? Its possible that once he put the transformer with the high voltage on it it shorted out a few of the winds. Cause at 24v @ 83ma that takes 1.9 watts of power and at 27.2v @ 83ma thats 2.25 watts of power which isn't huge difference but i believe you would be able to feel the heat difference. Now if his coil resistance was higher then normal it could be pull more then the 83ma
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:21 AM   #43
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Where is the best place to purchase a power supply for this solenoid?
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:36 AM   #44
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There are pretty cheap 100mA 24VDC wall worts on no ebay links allowed That's what I'm using and they seem to work well. Make sure you get one that's UL listed.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:36 AM   #45
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The trick is not the ma but using a switch mode power supply and not a transformer. The switch mode will put out the same voltage no matter where it is plugged in vs a transformer which will vary a little.
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