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Old 10-14-2012, 02:39 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Neatfish View Post
The water won't be to cold coming out the water hose?
Garden hose does not imply you use the cold water outside garden hose source, it's just a hose to drain and fill.

Connect the refilling end up the shower(generally this is a 1/2 to 5/8" plumbing adaptor to Garden hose, 3/4" garden hose in this case). You don't take cold showers do you? Generally, most people can measure with their hand, a temp difference of 1-2 degrees F.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:29 AM   #17
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I thought you were using the water outside.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:13 AM   #18
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I thought you were using the water outside.
I figured, but it is..........a bit inconvenient. Shower adapter works like a charm, and then the large 3/4" hose drains pretty quick, and you can run that end of the hose outside to water the lawn or landscaping etc. Once drained, you take that end and attach to the shower head, prep the temp, then pull the shower valve to send new water to the tank.

The Hook height for draining can be set for your tanks to any length also, and simply twist to make it more shallow on smaller/shallower tanks.
This pre sets the drain % you do without you even being around. The strainers prevent fish and shrimp getting in and also prevents large high pressure water from destroying the landscaping.

Squirt some dechlor or run through a carbon block prefilter= done deal.
I change 440 Gallons of tank about 70% 1-2x a week in 1.5 hours and clean the prefilters, wipe glass, cleanign sponge block filters, change CO2, trim etc.
The tank takes some time to drain and refill, so I clean and do the other stuff.

The actual work involved in the water change for 5 tanks actually only takes maybe 10-15min tops.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:22 AM   #19
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I do it the old fashion way still.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #20
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Having a quick and painless water change system is really important IMO. Having to use buckets, etc. gets old really quick and causes people to either not do them on a regular basis or for some newbies to quick the hobby. This is an overlooked area and needs to be emphasised even more.
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Old 10-14-2012, 03:01 PM   #21
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For the winter im going to have to do water changes with a bucket for the simple reason its way to cold for the hose, but wont the chlorine in the water kill all the beneficial bacteria within the substrate and or filter media if it gets in the filters? or would filling it most the way and not letting it come in contact with the filter media?
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:41 PM   #22
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If you are filling via a hose from any source you add dechlor where the water is entering the tank. It acts so close to instantly there is no problem, even doing 100% water changes.
If you are filling via a bucket add the dechlor to the bucket while you are filling it. It acts so fast that by the time you have carried the bucket to the tank the chlorine or chloramines are no longer a problem.

Benefits of the 'constant water change':
Water level does not get so low that the fish are stranded on the floor of the tank.
Allows a longer time for more thorough vacuuming.
Makes a more gradual change in water parameters as the old water and new get mixed. The total change in TDS from beginning to end should not be greater than what the fish can handle, but this change takes place over a longer time, and is more gradual.
I do not do this very often. Mostly I drain the water out the window to the garden then refill from either the shower or a garbage can.
When the weather is cold the water holds more gases and these come through the pipes and hose and into the tank and cause problems for the fish. In the winter I need to run the water into a garbage can and aerate it for at least half an hour, or longer.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:27 PM   #23
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Constant water change is good for folks who make a huge mess or need to get things real clean or are trying to get rid of a tough algae issue and want to pick and clean while the water is being exchanged, there are MANY good reasons to drain/fill at the same time.

I tend not to do this, except on a few tanks where semi automated water changes are hard plumbed. A bit inefficient of me........

To clean up the tank post water change, I add a HOT magnum with a cartridge micron filter, maybe purigen or carbon etc.

Water changes are a lot more about cleaning the plants/tank, and trim/prune/preening than any REQUIREMENT to do so due to water quality.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
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...
Water changes are a lot more about cleaning the plants/tank, and trim/prune/preening than any REQUIREMENT to do so due to water quality.
Don't disagree, but REQUIREMENT is sometimes an unknown to many folks so I think PREVENTIVE works here.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:11 PM   #25
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I do not recall when I made it (maybe 8 years ago), but I use a device like the Barr changer as well (mine is drilled on the side and has a diffuser mesh inside - it will break syphon when the tank is about 60-70% empty (my 2/3 water change).

I have a T and extra valve on my nearest toilet - I prime the hoses, quick disconnect and siphon into the toilet, drop in a cap full of prime (amount for a 50 gallon fill) then reconnect and fill. New house has a longer run to the toilet, so I went with a larger hose - but the draining is still slower than I would prefer. Likewise, the fill off the toilet is limited due to the house plumbing (it is not the same flow as a garden bib). Doing large changes with a bucket is messy and tiring.

In the past, I would just let the tank settle after a change, and would occasionally use my HOT Magnum as a polisher. I let a tank go and have been using the micron filter alone the last few weeks and am very happy at how quickly it cleans up floating particles.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:02 PM   #26
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Don't disagree, but REQUIREMENT is sometimes an unknown to many folks so I think PREVENTIVE works here.
Agreed, many folks read something and assume it is mandatory.
I honestly do not know where/what point it becomes a "requirement".
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:06 PM   #27
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I do not recall when I made it (maybe 8 years ago), but I use a device like the Barr changer as well (mine is drilled on the side and has a diffuser mesh inside - it will break syphon when the tank is about 60-70% empty (my 2/3 water change).

I have a T and extra valve on my nearest toilet - I prime the hoses, quick disconnect and siphon into the toilet, drop in a cap full of prime (amount for a 50 gallon fill) then reconnect and fill. New house has a longer run to the toilet, so I went with a larger hose - but the draining is still slower than I would prefer. Likewise, the fill off the toilet is limited due to the house plumbing (it is not the same flow as a garden bib). Doing large changes with a bucket is messy and tiring.

In the past, I would just let the tank settle after a change, and would occasionally use my HOT Magnum as a polisher. I let a tank go and have been using the micron filter alone the last few weeks and am very happy at how quickly it cleans up floating particles.

I use the shower head plumbing and the bath drain or outside to the landscape, this works pretty fast, if you use smaller plumbing fixtures, often you can regulate the flow with a valve under the sink or if you take off the aerator on the faucet.

You can get about 5-10X more flow this way. These are added to conserve water and to spread it out evenly over the place where the water is used, showering, hand washing etc, but for brute water flow, removing them is a wise thing where time is an issue.

It would take me 2-3 hours to change 100-150 Gal worth of Marine water at one location, I can do it in about 45 minutes because I removed the sink's aerator and placed a hose adapter on it.

Get about 800-1200 gph out of it vs maybe 200.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
...or need to get things real clean...
... because the plant club is coming over for an open house!
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:31 AM   #29
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I use a pretty simalar method to Tom's. I have a chlorine removing filter in a 10x2.5 housing.( cheap buy at a home store same filter housing people use for cerges reactor). On the inlet I have a 3/4 by 1/2 bushing and a 1/2" shoulder nipple. On the outlet a 3/4 bib (or 3/4ips x garden hose adapter which ever you have) I disconnect the hand held and connect the 6ft hand held hose to the 1/2 IPs nipple then set the filter on the sink or floor. Turn on the tub running on a thermometer. when the temp is right pull the diverter knob and the tanks fill. The hose end has a piece of regular 5/8 copper bent in a 180 degree loop. I'm gonna make one of those PVC ones like in the picture,
he copper scratched my glass once. I've done this the same way for definetly over a decade. Works for me. I don't use a declor.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:37 PM   #30
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... because the plant club is coming over for an open house!
It's been awhile for me, but I remember those days. Maybe next year. Folks just need to know how to make them cheap and easy for themselves. I find it ironic and odd that so many fight this simple idea:

Make the water change easier.
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