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Old 11-18-2012, 06:48 AM   #1231
aokashi
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hmmm. tell me if you manage to get HM to carpet. I've been goggling pictures...and have yet to see what it looks like carpeting. though some say that the true HM is extinct and what is circulating is another species :/

oh and....
I found out that floaters really keep the water clean... check ur params after this and update? just curious >.>


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Old 11-18-2012, 06:58 AM   #1232
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So I kinda swear by floaters. I think they really help balance my tank and make sure there's no gross film on top by them mixing up the surface.

By the way, in response to your signature, huge James Bond fan, didn't like Skyfall.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:21 AM   #1233
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Moar floaters + moar light = NO3- down 50%

I think the hygroryza likes my tank, I don't think I put in as much as I see now.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:21 AM   #1234
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The tanks aren't completely devout of floaters. Currently transitioning to hygroryza. Much easier to maintain but it takes up significantly more surface area.

If your tanks are densely planted, the water should be pretty crystal clear. More so when running co2. The trick with floaters are that they have a fast metabolism, similar to anacharis, hornwort, etc... And are great at soaking up excess nutrients or nitrates. If you've never had such plants and just add them, the impact is very noticeable.

I think my mistake with floaters was that they were mixed with other types and left unchecked for too long. If you leave them as single species per tank, each type when in mass actually look very pretty. I'm still quite fond of frog bit but most intrigued by dwarf water lettuce as I've managed to have short stubby growth like cabbage or longer wide spreading form depending on the light and nutrients fed. If learned you can modify fast growers using the same methods.

Patrice has inspired me to do an experiment adding a million fine airbubbles into one of my tanks. The immediate change was in livestock being more lively, likely due to the increased circulation. Time will tell on how the plants adapt.
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:02 PM   #1235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acitydweller View Post
Patrice has inspired me to do an experiment adding a million fine airbubbles into one of my tanks. The immediate change was in livestock being more lively, likely due to the increased circulation. Time will tell on how the plants adapt.
Oh, that sounds good! I've been considering working on my goldfish tank some more. I think it might need more circulation, but I was holding off as I was contemplating adding more filtration (which would probably increase circulation on its own).

I think I may have a shrimp disaster in the making. I noticed a writhing mass the other night, and realized that it was a pile of physid snails feasting on a food stick. I started doing a good vacuum today (it was due for a water change anyway) and have counted three dead shrimp (one berried!!! argh) after sucking out only three gallons of water. I must have been overfeeding. The food kept disappearing, but I guess that's not a good indicator.

Going to keep cleaning the tank. I might move the survivors into a smaller tank in the long run. Easier to see when something is going wrong.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:21 PM   #1236
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IME shrimp are easier to account for in a smaller tank (5-10g). Medium to larger tanks basically have them hidden most all the time which sort of defeats the purpose of keeping anything if they are invisible.

They are conversely extremely difficult to keep under 5g without weekly care and maintenance. we're assume all tanks above are cycled and established.

Maybe our next meet ought to be on "INVERTS!"
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:34 PM   #1237
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depends on what kind if shrimps right? XD
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:44 PM   #1238
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i'd say it a general rule of thumb. its up to you if you want to use a 150 gallon tank on cherry shrimp. ive used 1 gal, 3gal, 5.5, 6, 10, 16 and 20 gallon tanks for various shrimps.

i find 5.5 to have enough space to keep them fed constantly with the biofilm replenishing . This problem becomes more evident in smaller tanks.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:20 PM   #1239
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My 8 gallon fluval ebi is mostly maintenance free. I have upgraded the filter to HOB, where I put sponge on the intake. I remove and flush that sponge every 2-3 weeks , when flow decreases by alot. Other then that I only top off with RO water . Tank is kind of overstocked , many cherries ( at least 20 adult and at least as many babies), 10 CBS, CRS . Just noticed there are at least 5 Baby CBS now there too.On top of that there are 4 CPDs and 6 Endlers.It is heavily planted.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:51 PM   #1240
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My 5.5 gallon shrimp tank is pretty much top offs and one water change a month because of how densely planted it is. The only algae in the tank is a little bit of thread algae next to the lights.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #1241
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I feed my Spec V 5 g bc of my big ivory mystery snail.

Just twice a week though.

I took out the air stone for a couple of day bc I have bettagirl Prana in QT, and everyone in the tank slowed down noticeably. I bought a t-valve and another check valve and now both the QT And the shrimp/snail have bubbles. Shrimps have resumed their previous athleticism.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:22 PM   #1242
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Ok Time for another random question about BBA I got a few plants a month back planted them then noticed the BBA on several leaves did a heavy pruning to get rid of all the BBA I could find all seemed well until 2 days ago now I have a veritable explosion of BBA all across my tank and clinging to my lava rock Grrrrrrr nothing less attractive then hairy lava rock. Anyway I've seen a few references to dosing certain areas with hydrogen peroxide using a syringe and stopping the filtration for a few minutes, does this really work and will it harm my fish? Tank stock so far 5pygmy cory's, 1 SAE, 12 neon tetras, 1 bushy nose pleco, 12 ghost shrimp.

And how much can I safely does in a 55g tank with out damaging fish plants or BB? Or would I be better of just doing spot treatments?

My photo period was about 14 -16 hours a day this had been cut back to about 9 hours a day and will probably be dropped back to 8 hours.
Photos of the tank can be found in my tank journal link is in my Sig.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:32 PM   #1243
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http://www.gpodio.com/h2o2.asp

1mL/gallon for spot dosing
2mL/gallon for whole tank dosing, followed by a water change
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:51 PM   #1244
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Very interesting read looks like I'll be doing spot treatments for the next few days or weeks, not sure I want to risk dosing the entire tank at this stage.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:08 PM   #1245
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Five or six dead. Evicted my brackish Java fern, planted the 2g with crypts, stuffed it with moss, guppy grass, and the sponge filter. Put the 10 survivors in there for now.

Grrr. Mad at self.
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