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Old 09-28-2012, 02:53 AM   #31
Bettatail
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that is bad, your regulator looks in good condition, there must be something we miss.
please try this.

sopy water on around the lower seal cap(the inner hex screw seal nut), to see if the leaking is from there.

There is a small release hole on the back of the regulator, put some sopy water to cover it, if bubble comes out, it is draphragm issure, but this kind of test can only test fast leak on the first chamber diaphragm.

or
1.seal the output area, if the post body has been installed, just keep the solenoid off.
2.regulator handle all the way loose, no pressure in the regulator.
3.connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure washer at the connection is tightly pressed(turn the cga 320 nut with wrench, make sure the connection no leak)
4.slowly turn on the co2 tank, fill the regulator to 800 psi, then turn the co2 tank off.
5. wait 6 hours
6. A. check again, if nothing change, pass.
--B. if the lower pressure gauge rise, the popet valve has issue.
--C. if the high presure gauge lower but the lower pressure gauge still at 0 psi, there is a leak somewhere in the first chamber, or the first chamber diaphragm leak.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
that is bad, your regulator looks in good condition, there must be something we miss.
please try this.

sopy water on around the lower seal cap(the inner hex screw seal nut), to see if the leaking is from there.

There is a small release hole on the back of the regulator, put some sopy water to cover it, if bubble comes out, it is draphragm issure, but this kind of test can only test fast leak on the first chamber diaphragm.

or
1.seal the output area, if the post body has been installed, just keep the solenoid off.
2.regulator handle all the way loose, no pressure in the regulator.
3.connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure washer at the connection is tightly pressed(turn the cga 320 nut with wrench, make sure the connection no leak)
4.slowly turn on the co2 tank, fill the regulator to 800 psi, then turn the co2 tank off.
5. wait 6 hours
6. A. check again, if nothing change, pass.
--B. if the lower pressure gauge rise, the popet valve has issue.
--C. if the high presure gauge lower but the lower pressure gauge still at 0 psi, there is a leak somewhere in the first chamber, or the first chamber diaphragm leak.
Thanks, I'll try this out. I just let out the existing 550 PSI that was left over out and refilled it to 800 PSI. Gonna double check for leaks if it starts going down again. I found the hex screw seal nut on the bottom but haven't tested for leaks yet; where does the small release hole on the back of the regulator usually sit? I can pick out a small hole right behind the LP gauge and another small hole (bigger than the one behind the LP gauge) in the back slightly to the right of the HP gauge. I'll take a picture for reference if you need it. Hopefully the problem will sort itself out by the morning.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:01 PM   #33
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Seems to be option C. I've tried soapy water on almost every part/connection area and don't see any visible bubbles forming. I tried doing this a few times a day to see if I'm missing something but alas, no bubbles. I also noticed that when I first let the CO2 into the first chamber the HP gauge actually read 900 PSI right away and the leaking seems to be much slower than before. It's reading at 600 PSI right now but I've left it alone for 3 days now. Pretty bummed on this project, I might just try cleaning everything again
and redoing all the connections or just bringing the regulator to a professional to see if there's anything they can do to fix it
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:28 PM   #34
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Can you run two solenoids without a manifold? Can this work?
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #35
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work, need two timers to control two solenoids.
one timer to control two solenoids is ok, but I don't see the point.

you need a 24V DC (under 1A current output) power adapter for the solenoid, find one from Evil bay, about $4.5 a piece shipped from Hongkong, and good quality.

the solenoid is not polar sensitive, so the current direction not matter.
: need to test a couple more solenoid to be sure.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:59 PM   #36
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Yeah, I was thinking two timers. I'll see what the local Source store has in stock. I'm guessing red is live and black is ground?

Would it make a difference if it's 500mA or 1A for heat? Also, how would you know if it's "switching" and why do people prefer that?
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
the solenoid is not polar sensitive, so the current direction not matter.
: need to test a couple more solenoid to be sure.
I would imagine if the solenoid is DC, polarity might matter. For a simple coil, you could argue that polarity does not matter, but it would depend on the solenoid (check specification sheet).

To be 100% on the safe side, assume polarity matters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post
Yeah, I was thinking two timers. I'll see what the local Source store has in stock. I'm guessing red is live and black is ground?
That would be a logical assumption.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post
Would it make a difference if it's 500mA or 1A for heat? Also, how would you know if it's "switching" and why do people prefer that?
Yes; higher current will mean more heat. However, if you are getting the 500 mA adapter, ensure that it can supply enough current for the solenoid.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:05 PM   #38
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^Did you have any luck finding a local source for the DC adapter, I'm not finding anything except for fleabay. We actually live pretty close hahah, small world.

Is the polarity the way one connects the wires? Like, red with live, black with ground? Or does it depend on the adapter?

Edit: As requested, the close up. You can turn the top so the wires are not in the way of your build.


Last edited by FlyingHellFish; 04-08-2013 at 11:32 PM.. Reason: Request for close up of wire -
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
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^Did you have any luck finding a local source for the DC adapter, I'm not finding anything except for fleabay. We actually live pretty close hahah, small world.
DC adapters? You can pick them up at any electronics store. I have a collection of them in my basement that I have accumulated over the years.

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Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post
Is the polarity the way one connects the wires? Like, red with live, black with ground? Or does it depend on the adapter?
Yes.

It will depend with each adapter. You can easily test the correct polarity with a multimeter.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:57 AM   #40
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Mind pming me a store, I'm having a hard time getting a 24VDC that not fleabay.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post
Mind pming me a store, I'm having a hard time getting a 24VDC that not fleabay.
Check your in box.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:08 AM   #42
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According to the spec sheet, it does not have polarity. Also, when you say under 1A, how low can we go? Could one use a 200mA rated one?

I think I brought the wrong one. These switch mode are hard to find. I only can get these bulky ones.


Last edited by FlyingHellFish; 04-10-2013 at 06:24 PM.. Reason: No polarity for DC- according to spec
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:30 AM   #43
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No polarity(as predicted), so no matter red or black.
last line in the picture
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:55 AM   #44
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Hey Bettatails, yeah I was wondering about red/black so I just went with black with black but since there no polarity it didn't matter.

I got it to work, it was a bit scary at first so I stood quite a bit away. Anyways, here the pics. I heard the click, didn't make any hum or anything (I hate that noise). Then again, I wasn't very close to hear anything but the click. Tried it several times. Seem good.

24VDC 200mA adapter.
Bettatail says it uses 125mA,

Will solder and shrink wrap tomorrow.

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Old 04-11-2013, 09:33 AM   #45
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Quote:
it was a bit scary at first so I stood quite a bit away.
it is not M18 claymore mine, don't need to stand far away when power it up, lol.




Quote:
I heard the click, didn't make any hum or anything
it doesn't hum, it is DC power input, not like the AC power input solenoid that "hum" when the coil is loose.
The hum is also call "AC hum", it is the sound from vibration of coil, and the vibration is because of the alternate current.


Quote:
24VDC 200mA adapter.
Bettatail says it uses 125mA,
this solenoid is 3 watts, lower than the Burkert 6011 which is 4 watts, and it is full metal body, heat dispatching should be better.
Power(watts) = Current(amperes) Voltage(volts)
3 watts and 24V DC input, the current passing through the coil is 125mA
The class 2 transformer is 200mA max current output, the actual current passing the solenoid depends on the solenoid itself(coil resistance), so it is 125mA.

Voltage(volts) = Current(amperes) X Resistance(ohms)
the resistance is 192 ohms.
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