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Old 08-26-2012, 12:00 AM   #16
mr2
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[QUOTE=snuffy317;1990375]Looks like there's enough left to get an ez out into. Or any tool to get a bite in the softer brass and back it out.[/QUOThereSy, maybe there was until I mangled it trying everything to get it out, I destroyed it in the process trying to drill it out as a last ditch effort. It's in the trash now, hopefully bettatail can get me the part so I can get it up and running.
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:20 AM   #17
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Hey Guys,
I need some advice on controllers. Currently using the SMS 122. Is the the mc 122 better?? What are your recommendationS??
Thanks,
Tim
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:58 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=mr2;1991369]
Quote:
Originally Posted by snuffy317 View Post
Looks like there's enough left to get an ez out into. Or any tool to get a bite in the softer brass and back it out.[/QUOThereSy, maybe there was until I mangled it trying everything to get it out, I destroyed it in the process trying to drill it out as a last ditch effort. It's in the trash now, hopefully bettatail can get me the part so I can get it up and running.
That's too bad, I've got an old jewelers lathe that would have worked well for that. Haven't touched it in awhile, guess I oughta just sell it.Lol
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:59 PM   #19
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are you there bettatail?
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
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are you there bettatail?
Pm'ed
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antiquefloorman View Post
Hey Guys,
I need some advice on controllers. Currently using the SMS 122. Is the the mc 122 better?? What are your recommendationS??
Thanks,
Tim
not sure, I don't have experience with PH controller, don't need it anyway...
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:33 AM   #22
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Bettatail is getting me the parts I need! I finally just got my milwaulke regulator that I am going to use in the meantime and let me tell you, you get what you pay for. With bettatails system I always have perfect performance, it holds the bubble count like a Swiss clock... But the cheap milwalke reg Just won't hold 5 bps no matter how many times I set it, and it just feels so cheap i doubt it would last a year.

Last edited by lauraleellbp; 09-16-2012 at 05:39 AM.. Reason: removed vendor review
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Old 09-16-2012, 04:32 AM   #23
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I wanted to post here to see if I got this post-body kit connection stuff all right. Using oldpunk78's 'How to build a regulator guide' (great guide!) I tried my hand at it.

Here's what I got so far:



All the parts (with regulator disassembled and cleaned)



This is my mock-up body kit. I think everything's in order as far as connections go but I wanted to post in here just to make sure. I plan to put teflon tape on the connections when I put it all together but I'm still waiting on my CO2 canister to arrive. Also is the green tubing that's coming out from the needle valve supposed to be replaced with different tubing or is it fine to attach a check valve to the end of it (is the clear plastic tip a check valve?)? Thanks for the help in advance
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Last edited by Lotto; 09-19-2012 at 03:55 AM.. Reason: removed some fluff
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:29 AM   #24
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If I'm not mistaken, I believe you would connect your regular tubing to the end of that green tubing. (then put the check valve in where ever) I think that's Betta's solution for going from an 1/8" tube connection (on the metering valve) to our standard co2 tubing. I wouldn't mess with it until he clarifies this.

Post pics when you're done!
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:40 AM   #25
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MODERATOR NOTE:

Just a quick reminder to keep the topic focused on the products, vendor reviews of any sort (both positive and negative) are not allowed.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:06 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotto View Post



All the parts (with regulator disassembled and cleaned)


please no vendor review, don't mention where you get the parts neither.
only list the parts and questions on how to put them together, it is adequate.

Did you use the small bottle of threadlocker sealant? That thing works better than the teflon tape, use less than a drop to cover at least three threads on the fittings.

Here is an order of putting the parts together:

1. CGA 320 nipple and nut to the regulator, use teflon tape on this part.
2. high pressure gauge to the regulator
3. 1/4 to 1/8 bushing to the regulator.
4. 1/8 nipple and elbow to the bushing.
5. manifold to the elbow, over turn it a little bit so you have clearance to screw on the metering valve.
6. metering valve to the manifold, control the torque, don't over do it, make sure the metering valve is at upright position.
7. turn the manifold back a little bit, the metering valve should face front.
8. screw the solenoid on to the manifold(no threadlocker sealant, the o-rings on the solenoid seal well)
9. connect the air hose to the air hose adapter at the end of the green tubing.
10. lower pressure gauge to the regulator.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
If I'm not mistaken, I believe you would connect your regular tubing to the end of that green tubing. (then put the check valve in where ever) I think that's Betta's solution for going from an 1/8" tube connection (on the metering valve) to our standard co2 tubing. I wouldn't mess with it until he clarifies this.

Post pics when you're done!
thanks for join.

The green tube(polyurethane, 0-120 psi) with the reducer/adapter can be replaced by a

1.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/8 hose barb adapter,
2.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/4 OD push and pull quick connector
3.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/4 OD compression tube adapter.
4.
or simply a short section of 1/8 OD metal tube, the air hose with 1/8 ID, will seal well.

The green tube was originally on that metering valve, a tubing insert is not necessary for 1/8 OD port (same as 1/4 OD port, the insert no needed if the air hose is thick polyurethane or other hard plastic. Silicone or any similar soft air hose, need the air hose insert, and any compression tube port larger than 1/4 OD, need air hose insert for air hose connection.)
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:20 AM   #28
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Thanks for the responses! I'm still waiting on the CO2 canister so I won't be able to post the complete setup just yet. It should be arriving sometime tomorrow, then I gotta get it filled at a local air gas shop. I can't seem to get the needle valve to stand completely upright, is it fine if it's just slightly tilted or does it have to be completely upright?
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:33 AM   #29
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it is slightly tilt left, use threadlocker sealant and turn it hard enough to make it upright when you assemble the parts, but don't over do it.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:01 AM   #30
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So I think my regulator is toasted.. I've been trying to get past step 1 of your 'complete leak check guide' for the past 4 days now and the HP reading keeps slowly dipping. The first two times I was able to clearly identify the leaks coming from the HP gauge so I tried using thread lock which ended up failing (waited 24 hours to dry) and now I've used teflon tape (spun around the thread 4-5 times) which was promising as I couldn't identify a leak coming from the HP gauge anymore. Initially it would read a PSI of 800 as stated in the guide and would stay at that range for several hours before slowly dropping off. I decided to just leave it alone for 2 days and now the PSI reading is at about 550 PSI. I've sprayed soapy water around all the connections stated in step 1 and can't see any visible bubbles forming in any of the areas. From your complete leak check guide I'm to assume that something internally is broken or perhaps I'm still missing a leaky area from the outside. Not sure what to do anymore at this point, I guess I could try and re-do the thread lock/teflon in some areas or try tightening things a bit, but other than that I have no clue.
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