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Old 07-29-2012, 07:50 PM   #1
planBtypeA
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sump and plumbing ideas


First off, not sure if this should be here or in the equipment section. I figured I'd start here since im building the system. I got my hands on a 60g (48x13x20) acrylic for FREE and a 20 glass for $20. The 60 is already drilled (needs some work) for a sump so, i decided why not. Im looking for ideas on the out/return lines. The tank is drilled 4x4 from the back right corner and 18x6 from the back left corner. was thinking about the back right as the output and using the other as a return. With the return was thinking about running 1 pipe out to the right side (hide in rock formation) and another straight up through a second rock formation. I want to avoid power heads if possible as imo they dont look good. Will this work to avoid "dead-flow" areas. Will be running an anti-backflow valve on the ruturn.

Second, want some input on my sump design. Its a 30Lx12Wx13H.
Flow:
4" filter sock x2 => foam => lava rock/ceramic mix with maybe some "nitrite hungry" plants (hydro, duckweed...) => charcoal/purigen => return

It will hold about 8-10g leaving 10-12g room. Plan on running Co2 reactor off return chamber.

Any thoughts/ideas appreciated.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:48 AM   #2
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Nobody wants to help?

Going to try and put up some drawings of my ideas soon.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:08 AM   #3
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Are the holes drilled the same size? Usually the bigger hole is your return. Is there any overflow box covering the holes or just holes in the tank and that's it.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:21 AM   #4
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I don't quite understand the hole layout in the tank. What does 4x4 mean? Inches? Are the holes in the bottom or back of the tank? You can't use holes in the bottom of the tank for a sump, put simply.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:22 AM   #5
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This is my sump if it helps to give you an idea, 60x30x30 approx 11g


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Old 08-01-2012, 01:35 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jcgd View Post
I don't quite understand the hole layout in the tank. What does 4x4 mean? Inches? Are the holes in the bottom or back of the tank? You can't use holes in the bottom of the tank for a sump, put simply.
Why not? Drain into a standpipe that is an inch or so from the surface so that it only drains when the water level gets high enough, which it would as the return pumps water back into the tank from the sump.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by GeToChKn View Post
Why not? Drain into a standpipe that is an inch or so from the surface so that it only drains when the water level gets high enough, which it would as the return pumps water back into the tank from the sump.
I said simply put. If you know what you are doing, go for it. Relying on a check isn't good, so you need that return up high as well to limit the back flow. If it is low it will drain the tank if the check valve fails, which it likely will at least to some degree after they get old, unless you replace them frequently ($$$).

The drain also needs to be high, and some sort of overflow besides the pipe would be smart or you'll have trouble siliencing the drain. If you simply let water pour into the pipe it will work, but is generally loud.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgd View Post
I said simply put. If you know what you are doing, go for it. Relying on a check isn't good, so you need that return up high as well to limit the back flow. If it is low it will drain the tank if the check valve fails, which it likely will at least to some degree after they get old, unless you replace them frequently ($$$).

The drain also needs to be high, and some sort of overflow besides the pipe would be smart or you'll have trouble siliencing the drain. If you simply let water pour into the pipe it will work, but is generally loud.
I know it's not ideal, just saying it can be done but I agree, I like hidden pipes behind overflow covers in the corners.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:20 PM   #9
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the holes are in the bottom of the main tank and believe both are the same size (right now), sorry the numbers are in inches. i will try and get some pics or drawings up today. i plan on boxing in the drain pipe.

Last edited by planBtypeA; 08-02-2012 at 12:22 PM.. Reason: forgot stuff
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:49 PM   #10
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Here is an example for how I am planning on running the sump. I have not figured out the exact dimensions of the chambers but plan on the bio and return chambers being the biggest. Thinking about 2 4" filters socks on the inlet.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:16 PM   #11
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Here is a view from the top and front of tank. Thinking about running an electric solenoid on the return that will close if/when power is lost, similar to one used for Co2. Grey area in top view is the overflow box (yet to be built)


My second idea is to run the overflow chamber on the more "center of the tank" hole and the return out of the corner, would have to build some sort of rock formation to hide the pipes and chamber....
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Last edited by planBtypeA; 08-02-2012 at 09:21 PM.. Reason: Added second idea
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:26 PM   #12
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Update, sump is built. I will post pics when i get a chance to upload them.

Inlet chamber => foam => bio, with small mangrove "plant box" => chem => return with cerges CO2 reactor (yet to be built)

Words of advice, when you think you have sanded self-cut glass enough, sand it again...

Still trying to figure out the plumbing on the return.

Finally got around to measuring the holes in the tank and they are 1.5". I'm thinking of downsizing the return to 1" and leaving the overflow at 1.5". For the overflow, grate will be 1/2" slots 3/4-1" from top of tank (hiding the water level with the DIY hood I'm building). I dont know how high up to put the drain pipe in the overflow box though. Was thinking to split the height of the tank and make the inlet pipe about half way up (9-12"), would that be too much "dead space" in the overflow? My brother-in-law has 6-8" water in the bottom of his overfow inside his saltwater tank, but I'm open to suggestions.

Any opinions on one 1.5" inlet on a 60g? Or should I seal it (leftover acrylic from overflow and Weld-on) and put two 1"?

Probably going to be running a Mag 9.5 so I can throttle it back if needed, should give me about 750gph with the height and turns in pipe that there will probably be...
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:31 PM   #13
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Sump sitting in bottom of unfinished stand. Flow is right to left.
Down into intake chamber with heater #1 (intake pipe will be under water level)
Up and over (hoping to catch most of the big stuff and "stray critters" in chamber 1)
Down through foamfoam
Up and through lava rock/ceramic and small "planter box" (mangroves/moss? Have an extra 15w T5NO I can use for light.
Down through purigen bag (room for amio, carbon, whatever else as needed)
Into return chamber (cerges CO2 reactor intake/output and maybe UV?) With heater #2

Thinking about doing a glass/lexan top to minimize off gassing and evap. Comments, criticism?
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:56 AM   #14
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If CO2 is important to you, the area where the drains come into the filters should be sealed (airtight) to minimize CO2 loss...aside from that, covering it up just helps prevent the usual water evap.

My build journal might have some ideas/lines of thought for you: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185167
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