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Old 02-09-2004, 02:42 PM   #166
Mini4x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GulfCoastAquarian
Even by overdriving both of those 40w bulbs 4x, you're going to end up with a little more than 2wpg. This isn't intense enough to warrant the need for staggering light times. And when I do stagger light times, it's usually only for an hour or two (11 hr partial light, 8-9 hours full light).

Is there any other benefits to staggering? Is it better of the fish or anyhting or shoudl I just forget about it?
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Old 02-09-2004, 03:12 PM   #167
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If your lighting is extremely intense, the sudden bright light could definitely stress the fish. This light level isn't high enough to worry about that.
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:46 PM   #168
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can you do this in a hood? i have the plastic hood that "came" when i bought the tank...or should i buy/create a different container for the lightbulb and ballast?
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Old 03-01-2004, 03:39 PM   #169
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Yes, you can overdrive the bulbs in a plastic canopy, but there will definitely be some additional heat. It could possibly be enough to melt the plastic so I would install a fan to draw out some of the heat (which will also help extend the life of the bulbs).
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Old 03-01-2004, 05:49 PM   #170
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great. this thread was a lot of fun to read and i learned so much.
thanks for the added info. this will be my summer project!
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Old 04-04-2004, 11:53 PM   #171
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I noticed that my endcaps each has FOUR holes for inserting the wires(two are actually being used ususally). Do you know for sure that these four holes are internally connected? The reason I am asking is, if they are connected, then the connection is even easier: connect each of the four wires from one end of the ballast to each hole in the endcap, no merging/splitting of the wires needed from either the ballast or the endcap. I tried that anyway, and it worked, but I am not sure if I am getting the full over-driven benefit by doing that.
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Old 04-05-2004, 03:51 PM   #172
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The four pins are not all connected internally. Just the two pairs on each end. You will still need to run a jumper between the two sets to short out the internal filament. As you noted - it still works, even without shorting the filament but you should get slightly improved bulb life when shorting the two pins together.
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Old 04-05-2004, 07:43 PM   #173
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Thanks, Sam. I am not concerned about bulb life, it is cheap, as long as I get the same brightness.
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Old 04-27-2004, 01:28 AM   #174
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after reading about overdriving NO bulbs i had to try it. i have to say it works great. right now i i have a 20 long with a ge P&A 24" OD 4x and a 20 gallon standard with a 18" OD 4x. would like to know if it would be better to to add an additional bulb to each setup and run them in series OD 4X. The light already looks twice as bright but if i understand this whole thing correctly a 20 gallon should have about 60W for the right amount of light-- but currently has a 15W 4XOD = 30W? and the 20 long has a 20W 4XOD =40W? Let me know if i am correct and if it would be better to add extra bulbs in each tank in series and what the output would be.
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Old 04-27-2004, 02:05 PM   #175
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Yep, by overdriving 24" bulbs 4x in series on your 20 long, they will have the equivalent output of about 80w. (40w each) If that turns out to be too much light, you can disconnect one of the outputs and make it 3x ODNO and extend bulb life and decrease heat significantly.
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Old 04-27-2004, 03:29 PM   #176
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to run the lamps in series all i should have to do is run a jumper wire between the two ballasts that do not have the power or the return lines, correct? also, does there have to be a jumper on both sides of the ballasts i am jumpering together, as in, one for each pin. I currently have all four power wires in seperate terminals on the power side (there were four holes) and the yellow return wires in seperate terminals- one on each side for each pin. Let me know if there is a problem with this and which way is the correct way- because i have learned in the automotive repair business, "just cause it works dont mean its right". Someone told me with fluorescent bulbs they may run hotter or have a decreased operational life without a jumper between the two pin sides while overdriving them with an electronic ballast. Please let me know what your experience is with this-- all the help i can get is much appreciated.
thanks,
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Old 04-27-2004, 03:33 PM   #177
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i think one of the last posts answered my question about the jumper across the filament--(the two post sides). i should have read more this morning before posting-- but i would still like to know about the jumpers for the lights in series- does the same principle apply.
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:41 PM   #178
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the same pricinples apply for bulbs in series. At the very least, I would definitely jump the two pins being used to connect the two bulbs since there is a greater chance for there to be potential energy between the pins that could heat the filament.
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:19 PM   #179
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one more question...
GCA, i was wondering, i have a "stockpile" of 2 bulb electronic ballasts for bulbs ranging from 24"-96". Could i use some of these to overdrive smaller bulbs. I noticed you said you had a 2f32t8 ballast overdriving 2 18" bulbs for 60 watts? I thought the output only doubled per bulb if they were overdriven 4X. This is so confusing but fun!!! Basically i was wondering if i used a 2f32 ballast, could i overdrive a 18" bulb to produce enough wattage for a 10gal tank (30 watts would be more than enough). Thanks,
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Old 05-10-2004, 05:28 PM   #180
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If I did mention that 2xODNO produced a doubling in output, I was definitely wrong. You can expect to get around 50% more light with 2xODNO.
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