|
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
|
|
#646 | |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
Quote:
I had very good luck with underpowered filters on both high tech and low tech (I know Frank doesn't like these terms) so it took me a while to realize the benefit of using a lot of flow. Congrats on the purchase and seeing good results.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#647 |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
flow helps with CO2 distribution, which is WHY it helps with algae. the only algae it really helps with directly, IME, is cyanobacteria.
some algae do preffer less flow, but there are others which preffer high flow. so you just swap species if all that changes is the flow. but generally, flow carries around the CO2 from your diffuser, increasing the useful CO2 to your plants (since a plant has 0 benefit from a CO2 molecule 3 inches away from it).
__________________
My Tanks: ADA 30C - College 20 Gallon - 5 gallon Betta Barracks - 10 gallon Betta Sorority - Emmersed Tub |
|
|
|
|
|
#648 | |||
|
Planted Tank Jedi
|
Sorry guys for my disappearing-act lately - It's been a wild, wild week getting everything squared since the container hit.
Quote:
Quote:
It's great that you read through the whole thread! I believe if you follow the methodology and the step-by-steps laid out here, you can master any layout you wish, and save yourself an immense amount of time, money and frustration. I look forward to seeing how you approach the low-budget setups. I've basically gotten the formula to a point of substrate/bacteria + water quality + light levels + carbon. Quote:
That's a big step up from the zoo med - and i'm glad you've seen the desired results. The eheim zoo med seems to be more for terrestrial / turtle tank type deals where it's not having to push as much water. Where as the eheim 2211, for the nano tank it's intended for, does a lot ot stabilize flow as well as give you immensely more medium to work with to grow a bacteria base to help your filtration. To curb back the remaining BGA, I would recommend Bacter 100 - as this will pretty much eliminate anything left within 24 hours or so. The tricky part with BGA is, if you've killed it quick enough, then you're good, but if it's 'seeded' itself in the substrate you will have to do repeat applications to remove it and have it never come back again. |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
#649 | |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
Quote:
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#650 | |
|
Planted Tank Jedi
|
Quote:
I'll give a $10 gift certificate to the person who can answer the question - if you've read this whole thread, you should know what it is, or at least what's involved! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#651 |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
My shot in the dark is that more flow leads to higher and more efficiently dispersed oxygen levels, which helps boost the beneficial bacteria?
__________________
Wabi Kusa is just an Aquascape Katamari
|
|
|
|
|
|
#652 |
|
Planted Tank Jedi
|
And...Dollface nails it. So much for the stumper.
I didn't expect to actually have to give out a gift certificate! This means the thread has at least been a good teaching tool! |
|
|
|
|
|
#653 |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
Whoa wait really?
__________________
Wabi Kusa is just an Aquascape Katamari
|
|
|
|
|
|
#654 |
|
Algae Grower
|
Thank you all the help. I will try and keep you guys posted.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#655 |
|
Planted Member
|
I won!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#656 |
|
Planted Member
|
haha/jk
|
|
|
|
|
|
#657 | |
|
Sara is AWESOME
|
Quote:
![]() since this is low-budget (right now, low is the only budget i have), what would you suggest i do since i wont have any of the liquid supplements from ADA? as for the substrate additives, i likely wont have need for them, since most.all of the plants i will use will be epiphytic or mosses tied to something, i will just use a decorative white sand. do you have any tips on how to keep initial startup algae at bay? other then daily waterchanges for the first week or two.. as for the formula, substrate/bacteria + water quality + light levels + carbon. substrate/bacteria-my substrate will be purely decorative, and thus VERY shallow. so ill have to rely on the large filter and whatever can live on the plants/rocks/wood for the bacteria hosting. Water quality- i plan on frequent water changes, paired with good maintenance and a large filter, to maintain good water qaulity Light levels- im using a 24w PC light, so it will not be very bright, so as to help combat algae. since im not planning on using fertilizers or pressurized co2, i want to keep the light low, so as to keep everything balanced. carbon- none of the plants i will be using are overly demanding. im going to guess that in water there is already dissolved a small amount of carbon, otherwise why would myself and other people be able to grow plants without the assistance of added carbon? so im hoping to rely on the carbon that is present (hopefully) already, keeping in balance the low nutrient levels, and low light level. this is my plan, there may be faults in it, if anyone finds one, pllease do let me know! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#658 |
|
Planted Tank Guru
|
__________________
Regards,
Tom Barr |
|
|
|
|
|
#659 |
|
Sara is AWESOME
|
i have a question, in your earlier posts, you say that for the first month, your filtration media should be 20% mechanicsal, 80% carbon. what would time line be for changing it progressively so you get to the goal of 100% biological?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#660 | |
|
Planted Tank Jedi
|
Quote:
Bio Cube 20 (available Monday) - 20% NA Carbon / Bamboo Charcoal - 80% After about the first month - second month: Bio Cube 20 - 20% Bio Rio (biological) - 80% After the fifth month: Bio Rio - 100% |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Tags |
| francis wazeter, francis xavier, frank wazeter, nature aquarium, planted tank how to |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|