Seachem Fertilizer Dosing... Anyone?

[DeeJayA1]

So I've been dosing my 20g high with the Seachem line: Flourish Comprehensive, N-P-K, Iron and Excel... will list my dosing schedule when I get home. Last week, I introduced a pressurized CO2 setup that's currently at 1 bps diffused through a Up Aqua atomic diffuser. The BBA seemed to come back pretty hard on my driftwood and L. Aromatica.

Tank Parameters:
20g High
Eheim 2213
T5HO 2x24 6700k & 10000k bulbs w/ 1 layer of screening to diffuse the light
Pressurized CO2
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 40
Lightly planted w/ stems and a few slow growing anubias & java fern
Photoperiod: 9 hours split in 3hr stints w/ 2 hr intervals
co2 runs 24/7 with nightly aeration for 11 hrs
drop checker at green (been relocating it every other day)
Weekly 50% water changes and trimming when needed and I clean off whatever algae I can at time of wc.
More specs to come.





Any insight to seachem dosing would be appreciated.

[wizza]

I'm sure someone will be around shortly to give you a better dosing schedule but what I can tell you is it will be much more than what it says on the bottle.
This because it sounds like you have good light and assuming your co2 level is high enough(with good circulation) your plants demands on ferts will increase.

[wizza]

So the bba came back since the co2 right? If so good chance the co2 is not high enough either. It is usually a goodthing to stock up on your plants sooner rather than later too (particularly a few bunches of your favourite stems)
Btw I just noticed that the calculator that is in the sticky at the top of the page includes the seachem range (just select premixed)

[Hoppy]

A 20 gallon high tank will have a light that sits on top of the tank, about 14-15 inches from the substrate. One T5HO bulb, with a fair reflector, and a real HO ballast, will give you about 60-70 micromols of PAR at that distance. Two bulbs close together will give double that - say 120 micromols of PAR. A single layer of fiberglass window screen will reduce that to 70 micromols, which is still high medium light. To avoid most algae problems with that much light you need to run the CO2 at the optimum bubble rate, where the fish aren't distressed, and more CO2 doesn't cause better growth of the plants. You can't rely on a drop checker for that. You need to slightly increase the bubble rate, observe the plants and fish for a few days, looking for improvement in plant growth and no fish distress. If you get some plant growth improvement, repeat this, until you don't, then back off the bubble rate to the previous setting. This will be a changing target unless you keep the plant mass stable by pruning regularly and often. You also need to be sure the water surface is all rippled from water currents just under the surface, so the dissolved oxygen in the water is also kept high.

I think it is much easier to just reduce the light intensity some more, down to 40 micromols or so, where CO2 isn't as critical.