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Old 02-25-2012, 06:37 PM   #1
nesopheus
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Spider Mountain Guppy preserve


The first day of the breeder tank upgrade, 30 gallon tropical freshwater El natural. Pond soil beneath Puntledge river gravel. All rocks imported from Zeballos on the west coast of Vancouver island where I am building a school. I have planted Dwarf Sagittaria and Corkscrew Val and will be looking for a red leaf plant for the back left hand corner. This is a Guppy breeder tank, supplying feeder fish for my 120 gallon "Rope fish Paradise". In addition to the guppies I will add Amano shrimp for cleaning and algea control.
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:31 PM   #2
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Your light isn't strong enough for a red plant you could try a pink plant called hygrophila polysperma. Organic charcoal chipped up and put under it may make it turn bright pink
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:23 PM   #3
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Such are the difficulties with starting a new tank. I had the full melting, Dwarf saggitaria took a hard hit but seems to have survived while the corkscrew val melted completely away. My added Moneywort was unaffected and I have started some Echinodorus 'Vesuvius'. The water went yellow, tannins from the soil substrate plus some over feeding while I was away. I since added duckweed to draw some excess nutrients from the water. That's not all, now my breeder guppies have come out with a fungus. small white tufts on fin and body. This pic is before I change the water, here's hoping things get better.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:33 PM   #4
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Baby guppy explosion
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:49 PM   #5
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Although my plants are really filling out, the fish have taken a real hit. All of the adult guppies died and 4 out of 5 Amano shrimp have perished. I have clipped and planted the Moneywort, my dwarf Saggitaria is prolific and growing up the rock pile. I imported Echinedorus "Vesuvious" from my "Rope fish paradise" tank, along with some christmas moss and Wassurtang. The Moss tree experiment is growing densly but the moss is easily dislodged, further experimentation is required. I have been working out of town for the last 6 months and have a lot of work to catch up on, I hope to find time to devote to my 4 tanks and various aquatic projects in the near future.
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120 gallon "el natural" Planted
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/aq...-paradise.html
30 gallon food breeder "el natural"
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...-preserve.html
5 gallon Iwagumi
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...rock-home.html
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:53 PM   #6
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nice, im digging the tree
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There are 2 types of people on this forum. Those that have algae, and those that lie and say they don't.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nesopheus View Post
All of the adult guppies died and 4 out of 5 Amano shrimp have perished.
Have you checked your ammonia levels? Get you water tested at a pet store.
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilde View Post
Have you checked your ammonia levels? Get you water tested at a pet store.
Checked
Ammonia falls between the 0.6 and 1.2 mg/l
PH 7.2 so ammonia not to high.
Nitrite < 0.1 mg/l
Nitrate 5 mg/l
KH 30 mg/l
GH 80 mg/l

I don't check regularly but when creatures start dying... but I don't see anything here.
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120 gallon "el natural" Planted
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/aq...-paradise.html
30 gallon food breeder "el natural"
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...-preserve.html
5 gallon Iwagumi
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...rock-home.html
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nesopheus View Post
Checked
Ammonia between the 0.6 and 1.2 mg/l PH 7.2 so ammonia not to high.
Nitrite < 0.1 mg/l
I read -
Ammonia is the most deadly toxin (for fish) produced in an aquarium. When the pH is 7.0 or below, ammonia becomes ammonium. Ammonium is not toxic. When waste is falling down and it breaks up in the substrate the ammonium content is high, but because of minimal disturbance it doesnt affect the fish usually, unless they are bottom feeders who burrow, hence why it is reccomended you do a gravel vac to avoid diseases.

Hense you want the ammonia to be 0. I believe it best to do more frequent water changes.
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Hilde View Post
Hense you want the ammonia to be 0. I believe it best to do more frequent water changes.
And what frequency and percent volume would you suggest?
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120 gallon "el natural" Planted
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/aq...-paradise.html
30 gallon food breeder "el natural"
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...-preserve.html
5 gallon Iwagumi
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...rock-home.html
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #11
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I would do 50% right now and do 25% to 50% weekly at the least. Until you get the situation under control you should look at 50% changes every other day or so.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:48 PM   #12
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With regard ammonia, I would suggest using Prime both after you do a water change and biweekly for a while until things stabilize (Day 1 : H20 change + Prime, Day 3-4 : Prime, Day 7-8 : Prime, Day 11-12 : Prime, Day 14-15 : Goto Day 1). Prime, as we know, is super-fast acting, requires small dose as 1-cap (5ml) treats 50-Gallons, and treats multiple chemicals, well beyond just chroline. It might help stablize things for a bit. I am also curious the soil type and origin of the soil people use for their tanks.
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