Plumbing for converted Wet/DRY CO2 loss? - Page 2
Planted Tank Forums
Your Tanks Image Hosting *Tank Tracker * Plant Profiles Fish Profiles Planted Tank Guide Photo Gallery Articles

Go Back   The Planted Tank Forum > General Planted Tank Forums > General Planted Tank Discussion


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-24-2012, 03:38 AM   #16
braddiamond
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 49
Default

30knicks: so your are suggesting that a build a diy reactor and uae a ball valve? Do you have a pic of your setup and a link to the build instructions. Thanks
Satan: is this similar to a diy reactor. Have you have better reaults with this than a reactor. Would this replace my mag7?
Thanks guys for the thorough replies.
braddiamond is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-24-2012, 05:02 AM   #17
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

I would first turn your CO2 up a bit, and make sure you are properly circulating in the tank. I've seen a few discharges that are right at the top level of the tank. My y-locks point almost straight down, and a Hydor pushes a current along the bottom. Stay with the needle wheel chop method. It is pretty effective despite the seltzer water look. Get your plants up and running and then work on other less seltzer methods.

Remember, the water that is offgassing CO2 has left the tank. Focus on gassing up the water going into the tank.

Play around with your set up at each step of the way. See what works. don't skimp on the CO2, and don't just rely on the drop checker. Your plants will tell you that you're doing good. The drop checker is just one tool in the tool box.

You can see in the picture the CO2 line(green) just after the pump. Water goes through a UV light (small black tube on the wall) and enters my monster reactor (3" PVC- oh yeah).
You can barely see the ball valve on the return from the reactor. I have it throttled down just a little bit. I watched how many bubbles were spitting out as my measure; only after the CO2 has been on for a while in the morming. As CO2 builds through the day in the reactor, bubbles spit out in the evening regardless.

Hope this helps

OH YEAH- ITS 30 KINGS!!! (WTF????) =)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0002.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	63.5 KB
ID:	42644  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0004.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	42645  

__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 08:22 AM   #18
Aquaticfan
Wannabe Guru
 
Aquaticfan's Avatar
 
PTrader: (12/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
Default

Curious, Why the split of the bulbs on and off during the light cycle? I would run them all for the full duration of the photo period, and I would suggest turning on your CO2 about an hour before lights on and turning it off an hour before light off. I would also extend your photo period to longer then 8 hours. same with the CO2. A reactor works wonders. Very little bubbles in the tank GREAT Co2 mix into the water. Dissolves the Co2 much more thoroughly. Im running a Cerges style reactor and love it. Of course with a reactor I run a much higher bubble count. Just some thoughts..
__________________
Sun Sun pimp #72
RAOK CLUB # 68

Conway
Aquaticfan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 01:46 PM   #19
HD Blazingwolf
Planted Tank Guru
 
HD Blazingwolf's Avatar
 
PTrader: (8/100%)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 4,907
Default

restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..

@Aquaticfan
people split bulbs during the light cycle to keep light low enough to prevent algae and high enough to give good coloring.. i used to run the same system, but here lately i just run all 4
__________________
HD Blazingwolf is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 02:24 PM   #20
braddiamond
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 49
Default

Light. The tank is 72g. The lights are only about 6 inches from glass top. The bulbs are 2 55w and 2 65w. I thought that was too much light to have on all day. Its a reef lamp and I thought fw with plants does not need as much.

Reactor. I have an old small eheim canister filter. Can I remove the inards of it and have it run thru the output of the return pump and then to the tank. This seems the same as the stufff you guys built. The co2 would still go into the mag7 and get chopped up.

Thanks
braddiamond is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:09 PM   #21
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

Wolf-
Quote:
restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..
I agree.

I have a different take on light. I would say blast the light for an extended mid day burst, and monitor plants. Taper down accordingly. Watch for algae growth. You have to get your CO2 up first.

Remember more light and plants need more CO2, more ferts. Too much light is bad when U are growing algae, or when your plants are growing too fast and you are tired of clipping. High light to get the tank going, and then taper down, IMO. I still run pretty high light with 4- t5 bulbs for 5-6 hrs (9hr total period). I am cultivating stems and want them to grow quick.

Try the canister, why not? You'll learn something either way. A PVC reactor is pretty cheap to build if an when you go that route.
__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:25 PM   #22
Aquaticfan
Wannabe Guru
 
Aquaticfan's Avatar
 
PTrader: (12/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..

@Aquaticfan
people split bulbs during the light cycle to keep light low enough to prevent algae and high enough to give good coloring.. i used to run the same system, but here lately i just run all 4
I figured that was the case. I guess for me it doesn't make sense. Ive felt if you have the nutrients in the substrate and water column, pressurized Co2 and your water parms are good you shouldn't have to do that with your lights. Just run them all for the photo period. Algae shouldn't be an issue if all is in balance. Fast growth of course is a definite. But to me that's not a bad thing as long as its quality growth and not just quantity.
__________________
Sun Sun pimp #72
RAOK CLUB # 68

Conway
Aquaticfan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #23
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

On a side note, I have been toying with the idea of building a Cerges style reactor out of a water purifying canister. If you use an old filter caniter, its pretty much the same if your sump pump is driving the flow. The inlet/outlets on the canister may be too small, though. Not sure.

I think having a coarse sponge to trap residual bubbles is my missing link. You just can't put in sponges into the PVC style since you need to clean then on occasion.
__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:39 PM   #24
Aquaticfan
Wannabe Guru
 
Aquaticfan's Avatar
 
PTrader: (12/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 30king View Post
On a side note, I have been toying with the idea of building a Cerges style reactor out of a water purifying canister. If you use an old filter caniter, its pretty much the same if your sump pump is driving the flow. The inlet/outlets on the canister may be too small, though. Not sure.

I think having a coarse sponge to trap residual bubbles is my missing link. You just can't put in sponges into the PVC style since you need to clean then on occasion.
I like my cerges reactor a lot. It didn't kill the flow of my canisters output. It works very well at dissolving the co2 at close to 100%. I don't run any media or sponges in my cerges reactor. It does like to have a pretty high bps rate. I'm easily at 10 bps or more.
__________________
Sun Sun pimp #72
RAOK CLUB # 68

Conway
Aquaticfan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:39 PM   #25
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

Aquaticfan- Im like you I run more high light than not. I like my tank bright is one reason. I agree if all the stuff is in balance and plants grow quality, why not. I taper down enough so trimming does not get ridiculous. A while back I went on vaca for a week, and did not turn down the lights. My fast growers (sunset hygro) had my angels almost pinned to the glass. Pretty funny.
__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #26
braddiamond
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 49
Default

old filter canister: if the in/out's are too small what would happen. I want to slow the flow anyway. What i am hoping for in using canister after the pump has chopped up the c02, is that the CO2 has more time to disolve, Correct? Is this the similar to the way the Cerges works, except mine is already chopped up a bit.
braddiamond is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:44 PM   #27
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

Cerges, PVC both pretty much the same. Water in through the top, mixes with CO2, exits out the bottom of the canister. Cerges you can open up and clean. PVC you cannot (generally). PVC only a few buck, a saw and glue. Cerges a bit more for canister, more technical to adapt the fittings (still pretty easy)
__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 06:47 PM   #28
braddiamond
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 49
Default

i meant what i am doing with the old filter canister is the same as a Cerges, so it should have some positive effects.
Would the smaller if the in/out's just slow the flow?
30knicks was just a joke ..just like they played last night!!!!
Thanks
braddiamond is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 07:21 PM   #29
Aquaticfan
Wannabe Guru
 
Aquaticfan's Avatar
 
PTrader: (12/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
Default

I wouldn't make the ones and outs smaller. But you would need to modify your filter internally to act like a cerges with some pvc tubing . I also know you don't. Want to send chopped up co2 and water into the reactor as it won't mix properly. You could put bioballs inside the reactor chamber to break it up and disolve it more if you do leave it chopped. But the micro bubbles in the water won't collect inside the reactor and they will just pass through. On a reactor your counting on the slow larger upward flow of the co2 going against the waters downward current.
__________________
Sun Sun pimp #72
RAOK CLUB # 68

Conway
Aquaticfan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-24-2012, 10:00 PM   #30
30king
Algae Grower
 
30king's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 49
Default

braddi- I was actually thinking the inlet outlet of the canister may be too small. I have an old magnum canister and it uses 1/2" hose, while I am currently plumbing everything with 3/4" (a quarter inch loss is significant in water volume)

While you can (and may want to) reduce flow a bit, you don't want to reduce too much. Reactors need a decent amount of flow to dissolve the rapid injection of CO2, or they may fill up with gas (esp at 4-8 bubbles per sec) or spit out big bubbles (burping). If your set up constantly burps big volumes of gas, something is wrong and you are wasting CO2.

Again, give it a try; it may work out just fine.
__________________
Adam
SAPS member
30king is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Tags
c02, foam, out gassing, sump, wet/dry

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright Planted Tank LLC 2012