nVladik's Custom 125 - ** Updated March 31, 2012 **
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:49 PM   #1
nvladik
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nVladik's Custom 125 - ** Updated March 31, 2012 **


Started the thread on another forum, but decided to continue here. Here's the original post from beginning of January. The tank and stand are custom built. Tank has a single center overflow, with 2x 1" intakes and a single 3/4 return. 14 gallon sump is used for filtration, both overflow and sump are filled with bio-balls.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:51 PM   #2
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For today's actual update, tank now has a bit more plants, stone layout is more or less done and finally finished the plumbing with 15W Aqua UV. Light I am using is Aquatic Life 72" T5 HO's, 4x 36" 6500k and 4x 36" rosettes.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:18 PM   #3
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That's a great looking hardscape! Very nice start.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:21 PM   #4
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Thanks, glad you like it. I didn't expect the wood to be so massive, but still I am happy about the outcome.

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That's a great looking hardscape! Very nice start.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:09 AM   #5
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Love the scape, it is always amazing how large the wood looks when in the tank yet how small outside of it. Are you looking to add more species of plants or just waiting for the one you have to fill in?
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:47 AM   #6
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Love the scape, it is always amazing how large the wood looks when in the tank yet how small outside of it. Are you looking to add more species of plants or just waiting for the one you have to fill in?
Thanks. I am planning t add more plants for sure. Want the front of the plant to grow in red, and thinking of adding giant hair grass all over the back wall. Some low growing plants/moss to fill in the front sides, and would like 3 - 4 Eros Japan, but not at 30 a piece.

I do welcome suggestions, as I am still planning this out.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:21 PM   #7
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Wondering with the plumbing in this configuration how flow is created through the UV unit? Are you tuning down the flow from the weir drains with ball valves between the tank and the sump?
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
Wondering with the plumbing in this configuration how flow is created through the UV unit? Are you tuning down the flow from the weir drains with ball valves between the tank and the sump?
From the return pump, I split the flow. 50% to the UV and 50% straight up. Trying to lower the flow through the UV to kill more bacteria, algae, etc.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:50 AM   #9
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From the return pump, I split the flow. 50% to the UV and 50% straight up. Trying to lower the flow through the UV to kill more bacteria, algae, etc.
I don't believe that's what will happen. Unless you created some flow restriction between the tee's connecting the sterilizer (like a restriction plate to reduce the pipe ID) little if any water will follow the flow path through it. Flow follows the path of least resistance.

Adding a ball valve as you did between the tank and the sump on the drains this could work. As it appears in the photo little if any water will travel though sterilizer. Changing flow path through the four 90's created and the added piping doesn't present any advantage to flow. A more tortured path is presented. Without a pressure differential, less flow restriction on the longer run flow will stall in that longer piping leg. The water will travel straight up the pipe. Actually been here trying something similar in the past.



hth
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:06 PM   #10
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Interesting, and I was a bit concerned about it, but it did clear out my tank in one night, so I am thinking some water is getting through it.

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I don't believe that's what will happen. Unless you created some flow restriction between the tee's connecting the sterilizer (like a restriction plate to reduce the pipe ID) little if any water will follow the flow path through it. Flow follows the path of least resistance.
Thought about restriction in that gap between two t's. I am thinking either throw in a flow restricter in there, or, just put in caps and let everything go through UV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
Adding a ball valve as you did between the tank and the sump on the drains this could work. As it appears in the photo little if any water will travel though sterilizer. Changing flow path through the four 90's created and the added piping doesn't present any advantage to flow. A more tortured path is presented. Without a pressure differential, less flow restriction on the longer run flow will stall in that longer piping leg. The water will travel straight up the pipe. Actually been here trying something similar in the past.
My thinking was the much greater room inside the UV housing (and thus less pressure) will compensate for the 4 90's. It's run by a Mag 12, 3/4 piping and stop valve should create enough pressure for it to use every possible space. And the UV itself is only slightly warm, I think it would be much warmer if water wasn't passing through it, right?

Appreciate the feedback wkndracer.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvladik View Post
Interesting, and I was a bit concerned about it, but it did clear out my tank in one night, so I am thinking some water is getting through it.



Thought about restriction in that gap between two t's. I am thinking either throw in a flow restricter in there, or, just put in caps and let everything go through UV.



My thinking was the much greater room inside the UV housing (and thus less pressure) will compensate for the 4 90's. It's run by a Mag 12, 3/4 piping and stop valve should create enough pressure for it to use every possible space. And the UV itself is only slightly warm, I think it would be much warmer if water wasn't passing through it, right?

Appreciate the feedback wkndracer.
Not so. Since water is such a great thermo conductor, you could have very little flow going through the UV and still get some cooling properties. I'm sure you have a valve on the Mag 12, but even with one, there is a good amount of flow. That cooler water going past the two tees is quickly replaced by new, cool water, which helps keep the temp of the UV down. When I built my reef tank with sump, I first started it with a UV system. I went the easy way, but my first plan was to do something very similar to your setup. Right now you are pretty much cooking the water that is in the filter. The water really isn't moving (yes, there is an exchange, but nothing that is really usefull). Simplest solution: put a gate valve (much better than a ball valve) between the two tees that go to the UV. That will solve the flow problem. And, while you are at it, add valves before and after the Mag and UV filter. That will let you take the pump and filter out for maintenance or replacement without having to drain your system.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:25 PM   #12
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Not so. Since water is such a great thermo conductor, you could have very little flow going through the UV and still get some cooling properties. I'm sure you have a valve on the Mag 12, but even with one, there is a good amount of flow. That cooler water going past the two tees is quickly replaced by new, cool water, which helps keep the temp of the UV down. When I built my reef tank with sump, I first started it with a UV system. I went the easy way, but my first plan was to do something very similar to your setup. Right now you are pretty much cooking the water that is in the filter. The water really isn't moving (yes, there is an exchange, but nothing that is really usefull). Simplest solution: put a gate valve (much better than a ball valve) between the two tees that go to the UV. That will solve the flow problem. And, while you are at it, add valves before and after the Mag and UV filter. That will let you take the pump and filter out for maintenance or replacement without having to drain your system.
Sounds like everyone agree's this is not optimal. Found this gate valve, what do you guys think: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KBI-Gate-Valve-4EMJ3. Any other suggestions for the valve? Some obvious choices like Spears are too big, I need inlet to outlet distance to be a little over 2".

As far as maintenance, no worries there. Unions are all over the place and check valve prevents back flow. I will be adding a ball valve between the check valve and tank soon, but no need for it yet as I am not taking everything apart any time soon.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:50 PM   #13
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Word from experience: do not trust check valves. Period. They work well when new, and all goes down hill from there. Use, small particals, substrate, plant material...all can damage or get stuck inside, rendering the valve useless.

You say you are not going to take things apart for a long time. I said that too. Since you have to shut things down and drain some water to put the gate valve in for the UV (the one you are looking at is good), do yourself a favor and do the rest as well. One time and done. You will thank me in a week when you need to do something.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:28 PM   #14
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Point heard, researching more valves.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:30 PM   #15
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Looks like you have it covered now.
(imo) Being made of PVC and Polypropylene neither valve (ball or gate) will last any longer in service but the gate will provide a better adjustment range.
Feeling any heat at all through the housing on the UV unit flow is stalled out for sure.

and a big +1 on not trusting checkvalves. Create vacuum breaks (holes) on the return side above the drained weir level to stop the backfeed a syphon can cause when the power is off.

think you'll have a great setup when you finish tweaking things.
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