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Old 04-16-2012, 02:15 PM   #181
hcker2000
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There are many ways to wire them up. I will give you some examples.

1. All leds in series. For three 10 watt leds you would need roughly 33 volt - 1 amp driver.

2. All leds in parallel. For three 10 watt leds you would need roughly 11 volt - 3 amp driver.

3. Combination of 1 and 2. For FOUR leds. You could do two sets of leds in series. Your Driver would need to be 22 volt - 2 amp driver.


Just a status update on my setup. Still running it without fans. Plants are loving the 30 watts of led lights. Dwarf hair grass is still healthy. Wysteria is growing crazy still. Going to spread the three main stems out a bit so each gets more light.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:42 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ugn View Post
The constant current route is the preferred way to go, I know.
But the math was really the question, if I got that one right, as it seem's I don't :p

How can 5 units of 10W LEDs need 60 volt, if 6 needs 36 volt? Do you wire 2 set's of 3 in series, and then parallel the 2 set's?

To make the story shorter, my plan was to use 10 units in total. 2 active heat sinks with 5 LEDs on each. I can always add a LED (or to) extra if that makes the driver choice easier

Any tips is much appreciated!
Each 10W LED draws 12V @ 900mA. ~ 10.8W
if you have 5 of them on serial, they would draw 60V @ 900mA = 54W

Where are u getting 6 needs 36V?
The LED's would need to be 6V each, and these LED's dont run so well @ 6V.
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:18 AM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naekuh View Post
Each 10W LED draws 12V @ 900mA. ~ 10.8W
if you have 5 of them on serial, they would draw 60V @ 900mA = 54W

Where are u getting 6 needs 36V?
The LED's would need to be 6V each, and these LED's dont run so well @ 6V.
It you read a couple of post's back you'll see.

You can wire 3 LED in serial, so they draw 12v*3 = 36V and you do this twice, but then you wire these two "strings" in parallel. So they still draw 36V, but twice the amp.

Then you still can feed them constant current, as long your driver is in the right amp range.
The advantages, as I see it, is that it's much easier to find a driver.

(Ok, I'm no expert on this, so please tell me if I got this totally wrong )
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:42 PM   #184
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Just wanted to post an updated and let every one know the leds are still going strong. Plenty of light to keep every thing in my tank growing. Even some hair grass which I'm kinda surprised about considering I'm not running any co2.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:26 AM   #185
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Thank's for this thread!

Ordered and tested 8 of these led's (and fan's) like this:





And in a totaly dark room:





With a 120mm fan on the backside, running at ~19db (totaly silent), in one hour the heat sinks are running at 42'C/107'F.

Feeling this maybe be a little overkill for a 200L tank.. : but again, we like overkill! Have to get CO2 to keep the algae back now?!

Damn, my eyes are hurting!
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:45 PM   #186
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How are you messuring the temp? Infered hand held? From led side or fan side? Base of led?

I also built a three 10w led set up with two 6500k cool white and one blue. Asking so i can see how close my set up is to yours temp wise. Here are some pics. first one right side has led left stock old bulb.

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Led on 40mm heatsink and fan.

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Old 05-19-2012, 03:42 AM   #187
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If I were to get say 6 of these for my 75g 3 on each side staggered how much better would they be compared to my 1 bulb t5ho light?

And how much would I need to compare to a 4 bulb t5ho fixture?
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:30 PM   #188
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I used one of these:



Placed the sensor (placed/hammered/punched) about the same position as one of the LEDs. The whole heatsink held about the same temp (measured by hand) so I think it's accurate enough for me and my use.
(Picture is taken now for illustration, the temp is room temp)

The problem now is finding a driver for this.. 12v/4A - 24v/2A - 48v/1A constant current.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #189
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I used one like this. Same company little smaller.

http://pages.no ebay links allowedcom/link/?nav=item.view&id=320908747113

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Old 05-23-2012, 05:10 PM   #190
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This is my setup, and experience with LEDs.

It started out as 12 10Watt Chinese LEDs over my 90 gallon(24" tall). The heat sink is just angled aluminum from homedepot and does not work well at full power. I only run the LEDs at 75% full power to avoid overheating. To compensate for this I added 2 T5NO bulbs down the middle. I really wish I had a PAR meter so I would have a clue about the amount of light I am producing, all I can do is guess. I have no idea if I have low, medium, high, or ultra high light.












This picture was taken on 5/20/2011. I had just planted some DHG Belem to be grown emersed. There is a layer of Osmocoat fertilizer under the Eco-Complete.





This picture was taken on 10/27/2011. The DHG had filled in nicely on the right side (due to a white wall on the right side I think). I was running the LEDs at 75% with the T5NO lights on for 10 hours a day during the emersed period. I flooded the tank and planted some Crypticorne Wendtii from another tank.





This picture was taken on 5/16/2012. The DHG has not spread but has stayed healthy. The Crypts have grown nicely and are spreading but slowly. The Rotala Magenta was planted in January and I have barely been able to keep it alive. I planted some Corkscrew Vals at the same time and they have all died but the one next to the overflow. The LEDs had been running at 75% for 7 hours a day with the T5NO running for 4 hours a day. I fertilized with a low dose of dry ferts about every 8 weeks, and used Osmocoat in Gel caps for the root zone once. No co2 was used.




From my observations over the past year I would guess that I have low to medium light levels with this setup. While I did get growth from all my plants it was by no means fast, but I did not fertilize much or run co2 so that may have made a difference. I setup pressurized co2 last week and I almost have it dialed in. Im hopping that the addition of co2 and more dosing will get the DHG to actually spread now.

[Edit] I forgot to add that I have some Ricca mini entangled with my DHG. That stuff is growing like a weed and I always have to pull it out of my grass or it will take over.
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:48 AM   #191
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What driver do you use?
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:09 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ugn View Post
What driver do you use?
Its a custom driver/controller I built just for this tank. Here is the thread for it.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...led-setup.html

The thread has all the details but basically it is an event/calendar based controller that drives the LEDs via pulse width modulation of the 12 volt rail. I ran the LEDs in parallel with current limiting resistors inline, each LED gets ~900mA at full power. Full tilt this thing produces 130 watts of LED power.
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:59 PM   #193
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Have u made any for people? Are you still happy with its long term use? At $40 i would want to talk about having one made for me.

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Old 05-25-2012, 03:29 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdavis1982 View Post
Have u made any for people? Are you still happy with its long term use? At $40 i would want to talk about having one made for me.

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I have been using this controller for over a year and it has been working great. It controls my LEDs, T5NOs, and now my CO2. The time drift is minimal, maybe a few minutes per year. I would say it is pretty well de-bugged at this point, but there are still a few features I am wanting to add.

I have not built any for others yet. When I get the software finished I will be happy to make some for the folks here. $40 is the cost of parts, I would charge around $80 as it is a process to build the thing.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:26 PM   #195
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That sounds fair

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