Dan's ADA 45-C fitted with bulkheads - Page 3
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:53 AM   #31
dantra
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You know what, it could very well be true. I really don't know much about LED's so the "spillage" may be occurring. That's one of the reasons I didn't want to use the Tek fixture I have. I would like to keep the light concentrated in the tank as opposed to the surrounding area. Don't misunderstand me, I would use T5HO's if it came in 18".

The ATI Powermodules are a beast of a light with a price tag to match. The 24" ATI Powermodule is just about the same price as the ADA Solar l, however the ATI Powermodule doesn't come in 18" otherwise my problem with light selection would have been solved.

The Solar II w/2- 36W Power Compact is about 22" and to be honest with you, I'm really not interested in power compacts. That doesn't leave me with a lot of fixtures to choose from.

If I can build that stand I'm sure you can build it too. Its easier than it looks. If you weren't so far, I would give you a hand building one. I'm actually a very generous guy.

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Old 01-31-2012, 05:47 PM   #32
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I don't like the inefficiency of power compacts either, but the length of the 36W PC's and the color of the ADA 8000K fits the 18" tanks so perfectly. Heck, if I can find a nice deal on a Solar II, I'd actually get one for the aesthetics hahaha!

In your case, a custom LED fixture or a MH pendant sounds like the ticket.

As for the stand, my (lack of) DIY skills means that it will not qualify for wife approval hahaha! I need it to be professionally done, or at least look like it is.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:41 PM   #33
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If I made my mind up today to purchase an ADA Solar l I still would be forced to wait because there aren't any in stock at ADG. In fact I am waiting for Jeff Senske ADG Shop to get their shipment in from Japan so I can order the rest of the stuff I need for the tank.
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:20 AM   #34
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O.k. so I've been testing the tank for leaks for about a week now and all is well. I initially had a leak coming from one of the bulkheads but I quickly remedied that by tightening it. I also had the filter going the entire time as well. I even went as far as having the filter unplugged for 48 hours, no leaks not even a drip. The Eheim 2217 withstood the water pressure just fine for the 48 hours it was unplugged. In total, I tested the equipment 10 days and still going.

Now here is where I'm kind of stumped about the flow of the 2217. I believe it doesn't provide enough current for a planted tank. I think the current would improve if I did away with the wye and ran a single Loc-Line in the tank, that and perhaps adding another filter? I'd like to add another 2217 which would provide more current in the tank, it won't be in the way or visible in the tank and it provides extra filtration.

I could add a pump but I wouldn't reap the added benefit of additional current in the tank plus filtration that I would with a filter. I could use a powerhead but that would be visible and sort of defeats the purpose of going for the clean look of not having anything hanging or sitting on the side of the tank.

I need to figure which way to go.

Anyway I just thought I keep you updated on the progress of the tank.

Dan
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:51 AM   #35
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The Koralia Nano Evolution is pretty small for the 240 and 420gph models.

Go with a sump and a powerful return pump, but that would mean getting an overflow.

Add another 2217; use a lily pipe (tucked in the back corner?) for the intake, and the output either plumped to your locline, or also with a glass lily pipe.

I think you can also get a strong pump, them put it inline on the 2217's output. This way, the water still goes through the 2217, but you get higher gph with the stronger pump.

The easiest approach, I think, is to upgrade the 2217 with a bigger stronger canister.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:34 PM   #36
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I run a an 18X18x22" "cube" with 150w MH over the top of it (ada bulbs) and it grows stuff like a weed. By shifting the height of the unit up and down you should easily be able to control the upper end of the output. Admittedly the depth of my tank is quite a bit deeper, but simply adjusting the height of the lighting unit will counterbalance that issue. It is not an algae factory, and I have run it dilligently and lazily, and it has produced insane amounts of high quality growth. Love the architecture of the set up so far.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zergling View Post
The Koralia Nano Evolution is pretty small for the 240 and 420gph models.

Go with a sump and a powerful return pump, but that would mean getting an overflow.

Add another 2217; use a lily pipe (tucked in the back corner?) for the intake, and the output either plumped to your locline, or also with a glass lily pipe.

I think you can also get a strong pump, them put it inline on the 2217's output. This way, the water still goes through the 2217, but you get higher gph with the stronger pump.

The easiest approach, I think, is to upgrade the 2217 with a bigger stronger canister.
I think a bigger canister would be the easiest solution also but adding a stronger pump inline is also fairly easy, just might require a reducer or two to fit it on the output tubing. Lily pipes are a good idea if you don't mind spending the cash and needing to clean them every few weeks. Aside from being unobtrusive, they will increase the water movement in than tank by pulling more water into the flow they create.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:46 PM   #38
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I would go with a double 2217 set up, if I were living the dream. I would love to be able to set it up so that the filters are removable one at a time, with ball valves, as maintenance time with classics is a little higher than trayed models. I am not a plumber but I would think about this potential arrangement. I am sure there are major flaws with this theory but it would make maintenance a snap.

intake
ball v
split manifold
2x Ball v
filters- heater one, reactor other
2x Ball v
split manifold
ball valve
outtake
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:26 PM   #39
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Looking at this tank reminds me of my old ADA 24x18x18. The tank was also drilled with dual overflows in the back right corner and a custom overflow was implemented to hide the stockman, as well as act as a drybox for one of two MP40w. The stand is very familiar as well, only my door was centered and was beveled into the front face (instead of the typical ADA with the fully open front).

Some old pics from that tank. Water testing in the backyard with attached bent conduit.




P.S. I'm the guy that zergling referenced in regards to the 30c w/the custom LED.

Always been a fan of LEDs since I started using them. The integration on them is spectacular and the overall looks are very clean. The fixture that I used had a built-in timer for controlling all 6 channels (independent of each other). Best thing about them was the low power consumption - 13w per channel and even with 4 channels running, it was plenty to grow SPS.

I really like the direction that you're taking with this tank.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zergling View Post
The Koralia Nano Evolution is pretty small for the 240 and 420gph models.

Go with a sump and a powerful return pump, but that would mean getting an overflow.

Add another 2217; use a lily pipe (tucked in the back corner?) for the intake, and the output either plumped to your locline, or also with a glass lily pipe.

I think you can also get a strong pump, them put it inline on the 2217's output. This way, the water still goes through the 2217, but you get higher gph with the stronger pump.

The easiest approach, I think, is to upgrade the 2217 with a bigger stronger canister.
The lily pipe sort of defeats the purpose of going with a clean look. I really thought long and hard about adding a pump but I would rather have the extra filtration which provides extra current plus filtration. I'm leaning toward adding the 2217 as you and others have suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by endgin28 View Post
I run a an 18X18x22" "cube" with 150w MH over the top of it (ada bulbs) and it grows stuff like a weed. By shifting the height of the unit up and down you should easily be able to control the upper end of the output. Admittedly the depth of my tank is quite a bit deeper, but simply adjusting the height of the lighting unit will counterbalance that issue. It is not an algae factory, and I have run it dilligently and lazily, and it has produced insane amounts of high quality growth. Love the architecture of the set up so far.
Thanks endgin28, I realized that the ADA Solar l isn't as strong as I thought it was. After reading this at the Barr Report. That thread really opened my eyes to how important having a par meter can be. Sadly they are really expensive especially if you only use them once however they are very helpful.

Raising and lowering the fixture is always good to do depending on what you're looking for. You also raised a good point with the depth of the tank so I would want the fixture, no matter what I chose, to be able to penetrate to the bottom and provide enough output to grow whatever I put down there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by endgin28 View Post
I would go with a double 2217 set up, if I were living the dream. I would love to be able to set it up so that the filters are removable one at a time, with ball valves, as maintenance time with classics is a little higher than trayed models. I am not a plumber but I would think about this potential arrangement. I am sure there are major flaws with this theory but it would make maintenance a snap.

intake
ball v
split manifold
2x Ball v
filters- heater one, reactor other
2x Ball v
split manifold
ball valve
outtake
Having two 2217 means having to drill another hole in the tank. I am willing to do that since this tank is sort of the test tank. Being able to clean one filter at a time without having to stop the other one would be cool . As I said, I'm leaning toward adding another 2217 so I may just start drilling soon.

Dan
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:10 PM   #41
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BTW - you probably already have a plan for it, but just in case - your scape should also have a way of hiding those loclines and the intake strainer. Black plastic tubes are less "clean look" than clean glass lily pipes.

Glad you're looking into adding another 2217. As the movie said, overkill is underrated!
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:30 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibn View Post
Looking at this tank reminds me of my old ADA 24x18x18. The tank was also drilled with dual overflows in the back right corner and a custom overflow was implemented to hide the stockman, as well as act as a drybox for one of two MP40w. The stand is very familiar as well, only my door was centered and was beveled into the front face (instead of the typical ADA with the fully open front).

Some old pics from that tank. Water testing in the backyard with attached bent conduit.




P.S. I'm the guy that zergling referenced in regards to the 30c w/the custom LED.

Always been a fan of LEDs since I started using them. The integration on them is spectacular and the overall looks are very clean. The fixture that I used had a built-in timer for controlling all 6 channels (independent of each other). Best thing about them was the low power consumption - 13w per channel and even with 4 channels running, it was plenty to grow SPS.

I really like the direction that you're taking with this tank.
Thanks Ibn, you have a great looking setup there. That, I think is a bit too elaborate for the cube. If I had a larger cabinet I would have thought long and hard about that. I have about 16 1/2" of space to work with inside the cabinet, wish I had more. I'm looking ahead at perhaps a 90p and implementing a BeanAnimal which is very similar to what you have. Here is jcardona1's thread that explains what a Bean Animal is. If and when I go larger that will the way I would like to go.

Looking at your setup makes me wish I had the space to go that route. I definitely would not have had the space to keep the CO2 tank in the cabinet along with the equipment shown. . Oh, one more thing, if you can point me in the right direction about the information pertaining to the LEDs, I would really appreciate it. One of the reasons for not going with LEDs is my lack of knowledge of them.

Dan
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:40 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zergling View Post
BTW - you probably already have a plan for it, but just in case - your scape should also have a way of hiding those loclines and the intake strainer. Black plastic tubes are less "clean look" than clean glass lily pipes.

Glad you're looking into adding another 2217. As the movie said, overkill is underrated!
I'm constantly going over the scape to make sure I'll be able to cover the Loc-Lines without it looking obvious. But as we all know, scapes are thought of one way and implementing them seems to always go another.

Yeah, the 2217 will definitely help. How much it will help remains to be seen. At the very least i'll have some very clear water.

Dan
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:28 PM   #44
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oh noes!! the complicated plumbing folks are invading TPT!
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:47 PM   #45
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Your tank looks great! Love the cabinet stand, can't wait to see your progress!
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