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Old 12-15-2011, 06:00 PM   #1
pagemee
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Petite planted pretty


First time planting. I'm doing low tech, 10 gallon Tetra tank, Whisper 10i filter (with the new bio insert, not foam), 2 UltraSun 6500K bulbs , CaribSea Floramax substate black, heater and I think that's it for the parts.

5 neons. An apple snail (gold) named Luca. RCS (breeding program). Oto catfish: Cheshire.

RIP: Lou the betta, Waldo the ghost shrimp, four neons, and Waldo the CRS.

Recent photos on the next pages.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:51 PM   #2
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Stocking plans: a nerite snail, four zebra oto catfish (if I can find them) and maybe two more different shrimp species.

Current plants: Anubias nana on artificial cichlid rock, marimo ball, singapura moss on bendy wire, amazon swords, crested java fern on driftwood, bananna plant, horn wort, anacharis.

Plant plans: Reduce the species and focus on moss on some fun stair step rocks I've acquired.

I need to get the electrics on a timer.

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Old 12-15-2011, 11:42 PM   #3
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Things I need advice on: copper free fertilizers (could root tabs be enough for a HC lawn at first), my singapore moss is brown except for two spots, it was slightly greener at the store all over what to do? I put a chunk of cuttle bone in the tank to assist with my invertebrates cause my ghost shrimp died after a molt probably from something calcium couldn't fix, but they still need it. I'm not sure if I'm over feeding my snail, giving half a small algae wafer everyday just about. How do you separate a marimo ball so it can be attached to objects or just to create another ball?
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:53 PM   #4
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Ok, so I need a different filter, out of tank style, any quiet flow at least 20 gallon capacity suggestions? I'm thinking aqauclear. I also would like a half wall in the back of either river looking rocks and I'll grow some moss or HC on it. Or a giant driftwood piece for the left corner. I dont want my creatures to hide behind the wall though cause I like counting to make sure everyone is still alive. This is the best artificial thing I could find:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...,8295&breeds=1

Measures 10" x 4 x 4 in. Think that's too big for my tank?
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:55 PM   #5
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Oh, by the way my parameters
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: <10
Hardness: 120 Moderate
Alkalinity: 17-24
pH: 7.6-8

Last edited by pagemee; 12-17-2011 at 09:14 PM..
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:58 AM   #6
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okay first of all what kind of light do you currently have over it? HC wont do to well without a proper light source. as for the artificial rocks.. Do you have anything against getting natural rocks? I think that over time they will have a better overall asthetic feel imo.. for filter i'd say for a 10 gallon try even going for aquaclear 30 there isn't that much of a difference in price and its a great filter to start off with..

the anubias will attach at its own rate depending on the object its trying to attach onto and how many groves, cracks the roots are open to attach onto. Mine took about a week to attach to a nice rough rock.. dont put clay or dirt in there unless its capped by your substrate or you'll have a crazy algae outbreak before you know it.

Your current plants dont really need root tabs just yet since your light is really low. Wait until you get your lights or else you will create an imbalance. HC is the only plant in your tank that really needs nutrients and without high-medium light its not going to grow extremely fast therefore not take up that many nutrients from the water.

Also how big of a cuttle bone do you have in the water? calcium is good for shrimp in small amounts.. releasing too much calcium in the water will affect your overall water chemistry and may not be the best thing either.

as for your peacock moss i'd wait and see. Give it a few more days and observe for any green new growths. mosses can really come back if given time. All it takes is a little bit of green and patience

its a good start, and a great size to work with. I know how it feels when no one chimes in. visit my thread i started off with a 10 gallon also and usually went 4-6 posts before anyone said anything.. and it was usually the generic "nice tank"

dont worry it'll turn around just keep posting someone is bound to say something eventually. Many people see your tank but a lot of us here are "lurkers" and may not say anything. Don't be discouraged by this though. Keep posting those questions and someone will answer eventually.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:18 PM   #7
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BEFORE you start a fert program, you would benefit from developing balance in your tank.

You have too high a Bio-Load in relationship to your filtration. Not just the Mechanical filter I'm also referring to the plants action as filtration.

You selected both a high light plant HC and a low light plant Aubus. I'd offer you'll be more successful not trying to go "both ways". Pick one or the other and use the appropriate lighting.

Increase your mechanical filtration. There was a member on the ill. forum selling a few new(er) used Aqua clears.

I think you shrimp loss may have been due to cycle issues vs, not enough Calcium.

A great temporary safety plant is hornwort. Super at sucking up nitrates. I've had up to 2" growth a day.

I use Atlantis Fish Ferr. You find in at a garden center. It's 4-2-0. I've e-mailed Bodine the co. chart makes it NO Copper. I dse at 1 drop per gl. with an eye dropper. I also use Aqueon's Plant food which is 0-0-1 + trace elements get that at PetCo/PetSmart, again 1 drop per gallon. I rise @xs a week for heavily planted tanks. From what i see I'd offer you might only dose after a W/C at this point.

AND water changes are very important, I feel weekly is a must do.

Finally I use excel 1drop per gl. per day

If your interested in trying these, I have some small bottle on Swap,listed as "Christmas Stocking Stuffers." That would save you a bit and allow you to try them. I like a sm. bottle near the tanks, looks nice & less to spill.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:37 PM   #8
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"2 incandescent bulbs (came with tank)" Packaged aquarium kits are designed to be fish only. Providing fixtures giving enough light to see in the tank but effort placed on the design to actually keep lighting low enough to slow algae growth.

Starting out I had no clue but was lucky in that I started with locally caught critters and local untreated water. As a kid growing up with lakes and creeks around me in sunny Florida my first experiences were with natural tanks. Most seem to buy a 'kit' and throw stuff in the water and when it dies go back to the store and buy more. Yes asking why such and such died but still spending more money.
(Perfect pet store customer)

What's in your water? That's the first question (imo) to answer before loading the box with flora and fauna. Find out what local source water contains where your are then load the tank. Where I'm at snails and hard water species would do great because of the hard local water. Many others are what I consider blessed with very soft water.
Also while sold as 'starter kits' a 10g aquarium is actually harder to maintain than a larger one for the reason brought up in this paragraph,,, water quality. Smaller tanks are harder to maintain because the small volume will foul quickly.

1st step - What's in your water?
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .Mko. View Post
okay first of all what kind of light do you currently have over it? HC wont do to well without a proper light source. as for the artificial rocks.. Do you have anything against getting natural rocks? I think that over time they will have a better overall asthetic feel imo.. for filter i'd say for a 10 gallon try even going for aquaclear 30 there isn't that much of a difference in price and its a great filter to start off with..

the anubias will attach at its own rate depending on the object its trying to attach onto and how many groves, cracks the roots are open to attach onto. Mine took about a week to attach to a nice rough rock.. dont put clay or dirt in there unless its capped by your substrate or you'll have a crazy algae outbreak before you know it.

Your current plants dont really need root tabs just yet since your light is really low. Wait until you get your lights or else you will create an imbalance. HC is the only plant in your tank that really needs nutrients and without high-medium light its not going to grow extremely fast therefore not take up that many nutrients from the water.

Also how big of a cuttle bone do you have in the water? calcium is good for shrimp in small amounts.. releasing too much calcium in the water will affect your overall water chemistry and may not be the best thing either.

as for your peacock moss i'd wait and see. Give it a few more days and observe for any green new growths. mosses can really come back if given time. All it takes is a little bit of green and patience

its a good start, and a great size to work with. I know how it feels when no one chimes in. visit my thread i started off with a 10 gallon also and usually went 4-6 posts before anyone said anything.. and it was usually the generic "nice tank"

dont worry it'll turn around just keep posting someone is bound to say something eventually. Many people see your tank but a lot of us here are "lurkers" and may not say anything. Don't be discouraged by this though. Keep posting those questions and someone will answer eventually.
Thanks for responding It's just my new obsession so I'm looking for like minded people to share my enthusiasm. This is my favorite forum so far though, most responsive and friendly.

I don't think my hood could fit an aqua clear 30 and I definitely appreciate the hood for the evaporation and light sockets.

This might get funny looking but since I'm working with two light sockets that take medium base bulbs, I was going to buy a med-high light fluorescent and a lower light fluorescent and keep the low light and high light plants on separate tank sides. Maybe take the hood with me to a store and try them out side by side for similarities. Petsmart and Petco are about all I have for selection, have a couple of LFS but they're not stocked with much either. These are the two options I have really: http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...uctId=11248156 or http://www.petco.com/product/111943/...cent-Bulb.aspx for the high light side. I'm not spending more than $20 on a light bulb.

I broke off a chunk from the smallest parakeet sized cuttle bone I could find....like 1/2 inch, think that's too much for a 10 gallon?

Natural rocks preferable, I have the James River to pull from...worried about the sanitation of them, been soaking in toxins and river water. I almost bought some small stackable slate pieces yesterday but I think I wouldn't like the straight lines, going for a riverbed worn rock look so far. Does my fake cichlid rock look super tacky? I'm trying to cover it with the anubias so it looks more natural

I thought that maybe fertilizers would help the moss, but I'm not going to update the lighting till the 1st most likely, so not going to fert either till then.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DogFish View Post
BEFORE you start a fert program, you would benefit from developing balance in your tank.

You have too high a Bio-Load in relationship to your filtration. Not just the Mechanical filter I'm also referring to the plants action as filtration.

You selected both a high light plant HC and a low light plant Aubus. I'd offer you'll be more successful not trying to go "both ways". Pick one or the other and use the appropriate lighting.

Increase your mechanical filtration. There was a member on the ill. forum selling a few new(er) used Aqua clears.

I think you shrimp loss may have been due to cycle issues vs, not enough Calcium.

A great temporary safety plant is hornwort. Super at sucking up nitrates. I've had up to 2" growth a day.

I use Atlantis Fish Ferr. You find in at a garden center. It's 4-2-0. I've e-mailed Bodine the co. chart makes it NO Copper. I dse at 1 drop per gl. with an eye dropper. I also use Aqueon's Plant food which is 0-0-1 + trace elements get that at PetCo/PetSmart, again 1 drop per gallon. I rise @xs a week for heavily planted tanks. From what i see I'd offer you might only dose after a W/C at this point.

AND water changes are very important, I feel weekly is a must do.

Finally I use excel 1drop per gl. per day

If your interested in trying these, I have some small bottle on Swap,listed as "Christmas Stocking Stuffers." That would save you a bit and allow you to try them. I like a sm. bottle near the tanks, looks nice & less to spill.
How is my bio-load too high currently? I asked aqadvisor and it's

Recommended temperature range: 69.8 - 80.6 F. [Display in Celsius]
Recommended pH range: 7 - 7.5.
Recommended hardness range: 10 - 15 dH.

You have plenty of aquarium filtration capacity.

Your aquarium filtration capacity for above selected species is 142%.
Recommended water change schedule: 13% per week.
Your aquarium stocking level is 63%.

I also do 20% water changes weekly. I don't have a local source of hornwort, just money wort, is that also good at absorbing nitrates?
Oh, by the way my parameters
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: <10
Hardness: 120 Moderate
Alkalinity: 17-24
pH: 7.6-8

Wish pH was bit lower.

Wow you use a lot of different ferts, just for variety or what? I'll check em out, thanks!

This might get funny looking but since I'm working with two light sockets that take medium base bulbs, I was going to buy a med-high light fluorescent and a lower light fluorescent and keep the low light and high light plants on separate tank sides. Maybe take the hood with me to a store and try them out side by side for similarities. Petsmart and Petco are about all I have for selection, have a couple of LFS but they're not stocked with much either. These are the two options I have really: http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...uctId=11248156 or http://www.petco.com/product/111943/...cent-Bulb.aspx for the high light side. I'm not spending more than $20 on a light bulb.

Do you have the link to the ill. forum for guy selling aquaclears?
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
"2 incandescent bulbs (came with tank)" Packaged aquarium kits are designed to be fish only. Providing fixtures giving enough light to see in the tank but effort placed on the design to actually keep lighting low enough to slow algae growth.

Starting out I had no clue but was lucky in that I started with locally caught critters and local untreated water. As a kid growing up with lakes and creeks around me in sunny Florida my first experiences were with natural tanks. Most seem to buy a 'kit' and throw stuff in the water and when it dies go back to the store and buy more. Yes asking why such and such died but still spending more money.
(Perfect pet store customer)

What's in your water? That's the first question (imo) to answer before loading the box with flora and fauna. Find out what local source water contains where your are then load the tank. Where I'm at snails and hard water species would do great because of the hard local water. Many others are what I consider blessed with very soft water.
Also while sold as 'starter kits' a 10g aquarium is actually harder to maintain than a larger one for the reason brought up in this paragraph,,, water quality. Smaller tanks are harder to maintain because the small volume will foul quickly.

1st step - What's in your water?
This:
Richmond’s Result
Sample Date Unit
Alkalinity 42.0 ppm
Chloride 11.1 250 ppm
Hardness 62 ppm
pH (acidity) 6.4 6.5 – 8.5 su
Silica 9
Moderately hard water

But I haven't used any tap water yet. I've been buying spring water from the store so who knows. I'm going to fill up the old spring water jugs and start using tap water though.
I wish I had space, money and lifestyle to host several 30 gallon and up tanks, but not as a student who will move probably yearly. Plus I'm really attracted to nano planted tanks, this is firstly a water garden, secondly a habitat. But now that the critters are in, I will always take their health into consideration as well. Yes, I do plan on changing light:

This might get funny looking but since I'm working with two light sockets that take medium base bulbs, I was going to buy a med-high light fluorescent and a lower light fluorescent and keep the low light and high light plants on separate tank sides. Maybe take the hood with me to a store and try them out side by side for similarities. Petsmart and Petco are about all I have for selection, have a couple of LFS but they're not stocked with much either. These are the two options I have really: http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...uctId=11248156 or http://www.petco.com/product/111943/...cent-Bulb.aspx for the high light side. I'm not spending more than $20 on a light bulb.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagemee View Post
How is my bio-load too high currently? I asked aqadvisor...
I base that on the type of plants you have, amt. of fish & inverts in the tank and that fact you basically got wipped out. It also lots like you have a bit of algae growing in the tank or is that moss?

I believe that "aquadviser" is a Pc. of Software? Software only knows what you tell it. software can't see pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pagemee View Post
Wow you use a lot of different ferts, just for variety or what? I'll check em out, thanks!
I only use two Ferts that complement each other's missing ingredients. I have just come across an Organic Fert that is 3-3-3. I still need to contact that Co. find out about Copper and if there are Trace minerals.

"Flourish Excel™ is a source of bioavailable organic carbon. All plants require a source of carbon. This is typically obtained from CO2, but, may also be derived from simple organic compounds (such as photosynthetic intermediates). The use of either CO2 injection or Flourish Excel™ does not necessarily negate the use of the other. Because the processes of producing photosynthetic intermediates and building onto them occur simultaneously, one can derive a substantial benefit with the use of Flourish Excel™ either alone or in conjunction with CO2 . The combination is particularly ideal for situations when continuing to add CO2 could result in dangerously low pH levels. Flourish Excel™ also has iron reducing properties which promote the ferrous state of iron (Fe+2), which is more easily utilized by plants than ferric iron (Fe+3).
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:19 AM   #13
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Not sure what you're looking at that looks like algae. I have a moss ball and a stick covered in singapore moss.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:25 PM   #14
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Added some new plants today. Hornwort, banana plant and anacharis, also updated one light bulb to Zoo Med Ultra Sun 6500K 10W. I'll get the other soon. Ruby the RCS molted and is still alive. Pictures later on on on

Last edited by pagemee; 12-22-2011 at 05:14 AM..
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:13 AM   #15
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So now that I have a ton of different plants in the tank, I realize that my vision will not happen. Most of the tanks I'm attracted to have very few plant species, just a lot of certain ones. Oh well. This tank is a learning experience. I think I know what steps I'll take next time. Interesting enough I'm here in IL and there's this store called Meiers, like a glorified Walmart. They have these pretty impressive fish section and these gorgeous seamless tanks like I've never seen before. I'm really tempted, to ship one back to myself, or ask my parents to.
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