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Old 10-27-2011, 08:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCobra View Post
That whole "tent" construct in the middle definitely looks like it's blocking both light and flow.

Increasing flow alone may be enough to correct it. You have plenty of filtration, so instead of adding more, you might just add directed flow via a powerhead.

I ordered a TruAqua CP-12 (Koralia clone) last night for testing the effect of flow on some lower regions in my tanks. Rated at 1,321GPH and 12W, it's cheaper and more energy efficient than additional filtration. Magnetically mounts through the glass, and has a ball-joint swivel, so it should be really easy to direct heavy flow anywhere. Something like this might be a useful option for your corner tank.
I did forget to mention that I have a Koralia powerhead in the back corner faced up and directed to the front center for a little bit of ripple effect plus additional flow. The other 2 returns are directed to the front as well but on either side of the driftwood. I was trying to get my flow to go down the front glass and back to the back corner but flow is messed up with the front glass being curved.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:30 PM   #17
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I'm feeling doubtful about flow being at the root of the matter. I run an XP1 and a magnum 350 at he same time, at different zones of the water column.. The algae growth does not correlate to light intensity or flow exposure, in my situation.

not to say it won't work in other environments, though.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:48 PM   #18
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I think another part of my problem is that the tank is 24" deep which really makes it hard to get the proper amount of light to the bottom of the tank. What I really want is a 125 gallon, rectangular tank that is 18" deep but money is the issue with that!
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:59 PM   #19
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i have similar issues. want to keep an eye on this thread.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:00 PM   #20
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I did forget to mention that I have a Koralia powerhead in the back corner faced up and directed to the front center for a little bit of ripple effect plus additional flow. The other 2 returns are directed to the front as well but on either side of the driftwood. I was trying to get my flow to go down the front glass and back to the back corner but flow is messed up with the front glass being curved.
Ok, good. If possible, you might get a more efficient flow pattern by mounting the Koralia on the side of the tank, low and towards the front, and directed sideways to create a cross-current.

Of course, it's also possible flow isn't the real issue here, and that light is. Or you don't have enough fast growing plants (like previously) to rapidly clean up organic wastes. Or that particular piece of driftwood isn't well aged, and is rotting and releasing organic wastes. It frequently comes down to experimentation and a process of elimination in this hobby.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:07 PM   #21
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hmmm i have mucho driftwood too
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:12 PM   #22
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I'm feeling doubtful about flow being at the root of the matter. I run an XP1 and a magnum 350 at he same time, at different zones of the water column.. The algae growth does not correlate to light intensity or flow exposure, in my situation.
Curious about your lighting. What's the bulb to substrate distance, and photoperiod?

You also mentioned "sheets" of algae, which sounds potentially different than the OP's. Have any pics?
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:13 PM   #23
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It frequently comes down to experimentation and a process of elimination in this hobby.
So I have found! So...maybe I will start by removing the driftwood, soak it in 10:1 bleach solution, power wash it, and wait for awhile to see if things clear up. Then go from there.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:18 PM   #24
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looks similar to what I had
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/al...hat-algae.html
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:43 PM   #25
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Curious about your lighting. What's the bulb to substrate distance, and photoperiod?
CF bulbs in front are ~30" (Had them closer at one point but was getting bad GSA so I raised them ~6" off the water but now have a hard time with any low growers. The T5's in the back are ~27".

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You also mentioned "sheets" of algae, which sounds potentially different than the OP's. Have any pics?
Where did I mention this???
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCobra View Post
Curious about your lighting. What's the bulb to substrate distance, and photoperiod?

You also mentioned "sheets" of algae, which sounds potentially different than the OP's. Have any pics?
Sheets as in covers the leaves uniformly, not like BGA or anything. Trust me - it looks EXACTLY the same as the original poster's issues. His description of a rough texture is congruous with my problem, as well.


Bulb to substrate is 2o inches, with an 8 hr photoperiod.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:50 PM   #27
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hmmm i have mucho driftwood too

I had this problem without driftwood.. the piece you see in the photo was introduced about a month ago, no impact noted.
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:54 PM   #28
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I have this exact same stuff on my dwarf sag. Not sure what it is.
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Old 10-29-2011, 06:40 PM   #29
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I suspect this is a dual species colony, in which BBA sets up from spores, and is then covered over with GSA or a biofilm.

also, I'm am not a scientist.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:16 PM   #30
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I've got the same crap on my Anubias barteri 'Coffeefolia' & 'Nana'. Starts out as GSA and eventually the spots grow together and turn into a greenish black sheet with dark red color hints in it. It's too hard or unappetizing for my otos or SAEs. Nerites nibble on it when they aren't busy coating my driftwood and rocks with dead eggs.

I think I'll PM a TPT friend and send some samples for microscopic examination to find out what kind of colony I'm dealing with.

Doesn't seem to bother my Cryptocoryne much. The Anubias both put out new leaves almost weekly, but eventually they get GSA and over a few months get completely covered. The leaves don't curl or die so there must be enough light getting through to keep 'em alive.

I have a tall narrow 45H tank with T5 lighting 22" above gravel substrate (2x6hr with 10hr overlapped photo period), good enough water movement to gently sway most plants, pressurized CO2, EI ferts, pH 6.2, somewhat heavy fish bioload.

While the lights are on all the plants (including Anubias) pearl and put out lots of O2 bubble streams.

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