How to build a co2 regulator [56k!]

**audioaficionado** · 10-23-2011, 10:57 PM

I'm sure once this is finished a mod can clean out the surplus chat & posts then stick it and this would be an outstanding resource for us at TPT and the greater internet aquatics hobbyist community.

POTSHOT · 10-23-2011, 11:09 PM

Agree! Easy to get off the main topic and reason oldpunk kicked it off in the first place.

**oldpunk78** · 10-23-2011, 11:56 PM

Actually.... I totally forgot about the filter inserts and that some nipples come with them and some don't.

There was a reason I'm cramming the info into the first couple posts. lol these threads can get hard to pick all the info out of unless you do it like that.

I will be the first to admit I don't everything about regulators or building them. That's why forums are great though. A collective like this can produce a lot of great info. I will just keep sorting it out in the 1st couple posts so it doesn't get to the point where it's all scattered and conflicting.

@POTSHOT, I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port.

supert · 10-31-2011, 03:53 PM

Anybody can walk me through on how to install this piece to the Swagelok metering valve?

Swagelok # B-4-TA-1-2 (Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT)

**kevmo911** · 10-31-2011, 04:04 PM

You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.

*However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).

supert · 10-31-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevmo911

You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.

*However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).

Thanks, I will give it a shot when I get home.

Assuming the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules is the one that usually come with the metering valve (small round nut & cone looking nut), correct?

**kevmo911** · 10-31-2011, 04:23 PM

Yep. The two things you describe are the front and back ferrules. Best to find a pic rather than have me try to explain how they fit into the nut.

**oldpunk78** · 10-31-2011, 04:30 PM

There's a link explaining how to put them together under the tube fittings section on the first page.

supert · 10-31-2011, 05:46 PM

Got it. Thanks guys. I'll use the wrench to tighten it.

Source: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-tube-fittings

**oldpunk78** · 12-04-2011, 04:51 PM

This week I'm going to be adding more stuff. Most will be small things no one will notice.

In the assembly section I've added some photos of how to mount a bubble counter. I still need to add the commentary though.

tizzite · 12-09-2011, 06:55 AM

This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/comple...o2-system.html

'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.

I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?

**oldpunk78** · 12-09-2011, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tizzite

This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/comple...o2-system.html

'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.

Some of the parts I used in the build I showed for reference are very similar but I don't believe it to be the "exact" same stuff. Orlando uses 'proprietary' nv-55's. I'm not sure what's so different about them though. I also don't think you'll save $200. More like $100 if you're a savoy shopper.

Quote:

I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?

They are comparable. As far as general usage goes, you probably wouldn't notice a difference. GLA was using Burkerts for while while looking for a replacement for the now defunct Clippards. The Burkert solenoid is very comparable to the PeterPual solenoid they use now. The two needle valves are also very similar.

Now, when it comes to the actual regulator part, I believe that almost any industrial 2-stage is far superior to the Cornelius. I doubt anyone could argue with that either. You have to be careful to pick out the right one though. If you get really used one or a unit that regulates more than 125psi you would notice the Cornelius is actually easier to use for what we're trying to do with it..

**oldpunk78** · 12-17-2011, 10:47 PM

Just curious as to if I've steered anyone wrong. Or if anyone has any un-answered questions I might be able to help with.

tizzite · 12-29-2011, 12:04 AM

I do have one question. If I were to follow this guide exactly to a T but I wanted to use the Ideal needle valve instead of the Fabco, would there be any changes to parts I need for the regulator assembly and the bubble counter addition?

**oldpunk78** · 12-29-2011, 12:36 AM

For connecting the Ideal valve to the solenoid, you would need a 1/8 NPT hex nipple.

You would need to use an extra Clippard # 15036 (in the Ideal valve)for using the bubble counter in the same way. I could probably find a picture of what I'm talking about if that doesn't make sense.

10-23-2011, 10:57 PM	#46
audioaficionado Planted Tank Overclocker (View User Tanks) PTrader: (9/100%) Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Medford, Orygun Posts: 2,177	I'm sure once this is finished a mod can clean out the surplus chat & posts then stick it and this would be an outstanding resource for us at TPT and the greater internet aquatics hobbyist community. __________________ Steve 45 gal tall high-tech : 2-23-12 update Complete CO2 Leak Test : How to build a CO2 regulator Never argue with a fool. Onlookers often can't tell the difference. Growing older is mandatory, growing up is optional. My advice is free and worth every penny.

10-23-2011, 11:56 PM	#48
oldpunk78 newbie (View User Tanks) PTrader: (102/100%) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 4,430	Actually.... I totally forgot about the filter inserts and that some nipples come with them and some don't. There was a reason I'm cramming the info into the first couple posts. lol these threads can get hard to pick all the info out of unless you do it like that. I will be the first to admit I don't everything about regulators or building them. That's why forums are great though. A collective like this can produce a lot of great info. I will just keep sorting it out in the 1st couple posts so it doesn't get to the point where it's all scattered and conflicting. @POTSHOT, I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port. Last edited by oldpunk78; 10-24-2011 at 02:12 AM..

12-17-2011, 10:47 PM	#58
oldpunk78 newbie (View User Tanks) PTrader: (102/100%) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 4,430	Just curious as to if I've steered anyone wrong. Or if anyone has any un-answered questions I might be able to help with. Last edited by oldpunk78; 01-03-2012 at 10:37 AM..

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10-23-2011, 11:09 PM	#47
POTSHOT Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0/0%) Join Date: May 2011 Location: San Jose,CA Posts: 23	Agree! Easy to get off the main topic and reason oldpunk kicked it off in the first place.

10-31-2011, 03:53 PM	#49
supert Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (22/100%) Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: IA Posts: 142	Anybody can walk me through on how to install this piece to the Swagelok metering valve? Swagelok # B-4-TA-1-2 (Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT)

10-31-2011, 04:04 PM	#50
kevmo911 Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (32/100%) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Greensboro, NC Posts: 3,750	You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done. However there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).

10-31-2011, 04:23 PM	#52
kevmo911 Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (32/100%) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Greensboro, NC Posts: 3,750	Yep. The two things you describe are the front and back ferrules. Best to find a pic rather than have me try to explain how they fit into the nut.

10-31-2011, 04:30 PM	#53
oldpunk78 newbie (View User Tanks) PTrader: (102/100%) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 4,430	There's a link explaining how to put them together under the tube fittings section on the first page.

10-31-2011, 05:46 PM	#54
supert Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (22/100%) Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: IA Posts: 142	Got it. Thanks guys. I'll use the wrench to tighten it. Source: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-tube-fittings

12-04-2011, 04:51 PM	#55
oldpunk78 newbie (View User Tanks) PTrader: (102/100%) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 4,430	This week I'm going to be adding more stuff. Most will be small things no one will notice. In the assembly section I've added some photos of how to mount a bubble counter. I still need to add the commentary though.

12-09-2011, 06:55 AM	#56
tizzite Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (1/100%) Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 87	This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system: http://greenleafaquariums.com/comple...o2-system.html 'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal. I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?

12-29-2011, 12:04 AM	#59
tizzite Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (1/100%) Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 87	I do have one question. If I were to follow this guide exactly to a T but I wanted to use the Ideal needle valve instead of the Fabco, would there be any changes to parts I need for the regulator assembly and the bubble counter addition?

12-29-2011, 12:36 AM	#60
oldpunk78 newbie (View User Tanks) PTrader: (102/100%) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Redding, CA Posts: 4,430	For connecting the Ideal valve to the solenoid, you would need a 1/8 NPT hex nipple. You would need to use an extra Clippard # 15036 (in the Ideal valve)for using the bubble counter in the same way. I could probably find a picture of what I'm talking about if that doesn't make sense.