New 300 gallon high tech high light planted Discus tank - Build Journal - Page 4
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:33 AM   #46
Sd760
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Subscribed, going to live vicariously through this thread. A huge discus tank is like a dream!

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Totally in the same boat
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:35 AM   #47
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I know it's jumping ahead but how many discus are you planning for this beast? Ah I can't wait to see more progress. Photos please =)
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #48
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The "Y" split is the return from the pump. I wanted to make sure flow was even on both outlets.





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Old 11-19-2011, 07:56 PM   #49
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It looks great and don't even worry about clean outs, you could take a garden hose and wash the substrate down the drain with no problems.

Just some tips and you may have already thought of these, now is the time to paint everything white underneath and install a light, it was the best thing I ever did under my stand. Plus it's hard to tell from the photos but you might need a power strip in case your outlets get buried by the sump, I just made one out of boxes and outlets on a piece of plywood but I saw some nice ones with 3 inches or so between each outlet so you could have all the timers you like.

Half of that was wasted words, I forgot your going ReefKeeper so outlets and timers won't be one of your problems.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:26 PM   #50
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Change of plans for the lighting.

Had nice long talk with Ike at Ecoxotic. After hanging up I went online and ordered 3x of their new elliptical 12k White 100W Cannon lights and 4x of their 48" 24W Stunner strips with a 12k/Magenta combo. The magenta is to add in some of the reds missing in the 12k 100W lights. Thinking of ordering some of the RGB strips too that you can adjust to any color for highlighting. Like some blueish/green light to make the plants pop a little or some yellow if the 12k lighting is a little too harsh. All fixtures are infinitely dimmable and controllable through the Neptune Apex controller I am going to use.

Not cheap at about $2,500 for lights.

Will cut my power consumption in half. and reduce heat output down to nothing compared the MH's I was going to use.






Top one. - double strip of them spaced out a little and running length of tank

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Old 11-22-2011, 10:23 PM   #51
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Are you sure.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:28 PM   #52
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I like the idea of the LEDS.... what are the light comparisons though to the MH?, the magenta... seems more for saltwater rather than Discus... planted tanks usually err on the Blue side I thought... maybe intead of the magenta, double up the RGB to tune it more effectively without having to "tune" out the magenta... Just a thought, playing devil's advocate....
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:59 PM   #53
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Are you sure.
Hope so, they have my money.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozydego View Post
I like the idea of the LEDS.... what are the light comparisons though to the MH?, the magenta... seems more for saltwater rather than Discus... planted tanks usually err on the Blue side I thought... maybe intead of the magenta, double up the RGB to tune it more effectively without having to "tune" out the magenta... Just a thought, playing devil's advocate....
It's hard to compare against MH's - probably like a 250w MH.

The magenta is strictly to give the plants some red spectrum light. I will use the RGB accent lights to get the visual color balance I want and that is pleasing to the eye.

Ecoxotic tech that called me back said they have had great success with the white 12k 100w Cannon lights in freshwater set-ups. Only suggestion he had has was that some people were adding the magenta to help some of the red stem plants.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:38 PM   #54
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This....... is....... so....... baller.....


Nice job on laying everything out so plainly. Even I can follow it .

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Old 11-23-2011, 01:23 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Lim Wave Series I pump
its the 1/15hp version. This guys pumps are ultra quiet and ultra energy efficient. Pulls less than 150 watts each.

Lim Wave UV - the 40W version

Changed my sump plan to a multi filter sock design too. Will get the sump fabricated this weekend. I have all the acrylic and welding solvent here and ready to go.

I think this is fail safe. The main siphon should never back up. If the filter bags clog the water level will rise until it overflows into filter pad section. If filter pads clog the water level will rise until it overflows into the main pick up chamber and bypass all filters.

It has 2 emergency drains that can each handle full pump load individually.
This is called a "BeanAnimal" standpipe system from the guys over at reefcentral.
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

System should never have to be shut down for cleaning since the filter bags will pull out from the top while water is flowing down through them.

You should be okay with the sump design.
The 5% or less side will not cause much issue.
the wet/dry section make sure to have it sealed ...particularly for where the top enters that free fall and tower section. I would suggest having the Dry tower section right where the water comes in but higher than the sump overall, then from there.....have the water fall genetly into the filter bags.
Then post chem media bags/sponge filters(more biomedia) at 30ppi 4" blocks from Swisstropicals.

It's hard to get around the filter bags and the wet/dry tower iissue without loosing gas. One guy used a separate pump and sent the water to a wet/dry sealed tower. You can sponge filter the snot out of the water and then run a post Nu Clear or Large canister pleated filter after the same section if you want that micron filtration.

Then have the wet/dry at the 1st stage, then sponge/chem media, then the heater/CO2 etc...then the post cartridge micron filter.

They make some nicer larger ones for bigger tanks also than nu clear etc.

I'm less inclined to use those LED's.
3 W crees spread out over the entire spread is better IME and most reef folks deal with these issues also.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:19 AM   #56
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Thanks for the tips on the sump. The sump plan is morphing a little, so stay tuned. I will most definitely be trying to keep water agitation down to a minimum and putting a sealing lid on the sump to keep Co2 loss to a minimum. I have a great idea for a simple in sump Co2 reactor too.


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I'm less inclined to use those LED's.
3 W crees spread out over the entire spread is better IME and most reef folks deal with these issues also.
I wrestled back and forth with that. Read couple of good artcls that reviewed these Cannon lights and they also said a bank of 10 - 3W cree's is much more efficient and offered better spread, but could not find an off the shelf unit I liked and just didnt feel like going DIY or waiting on a custom unit to be built. I even saw your post on having access to a good custom light builder in Chico.

Talked with Ike at Ecoxotic for a while on the phone. Very knowledgeable and informative. Nothing like a competent and helpful tech to close a sale.

Last edited by rbarn; 11-23-2011 at 01:09 PM..
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:25 AM   #57
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You need to take a look at this, it's a prototype that he is working on and meant to sit inside another tank/sump but it's not been tested. You may have to join this forum to view the page, I'm not quite sure.
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Old 11-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #58
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I had a buddy run the calculations for pathogen killing not just algae, but true microbe killing exposure on my 40W UV. And I will need to cut flow in half or run 2 in parallel and I should get good pathogen exposure. He said he ran the numbers with 60% bulb efficiency too. I will order 1 or 2 more of same UV and add them to the system.


So I had my cartridge filters show up and learning they need a high pressure pump to work right I was scratching my head on what to do with them. Decided they would make excellent moving bed bio filters with a little modifying. Going to run 3 or 4 in parallel. I think it should work well.




Start off with empty filter housing. This is nothing but a Pentair LifeGuard RTL pool filter cartridge housing. They come in 3 sizes.



Cut some slots in the top of exit tube that is normally inside the cartridge filter and wedge a piece of plastic egg crate in there to block it off. I also drilled a bunch of holes in the side of the tube open the flow some more and give it a more random flow. Trimmed out the bottom of a cheap pool skimmer basket and enlarged the holes some with a drill to create a bottom plate for the media to rest on.



Had a big bag of W.Lim sinking bio media left over from the koi pond project so that worked out perfect.



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Old 11-26-2011, 09:11 PM   #59
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Looks good to me so far, can't wait for UPS to come again!
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:19 PM   #60
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