Phosphate Level/Dosing Question
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:50 AM   #1
IwantToScubaInMyTank
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Phosphate Level/Dosing Question


Ok so I've been seeing a lot of what I think is phosphate deficiency in my plants.. I tested my phosphates and they are low, really low like .05.. So I gave it a pretty good dose of phosphate and checked the level an hour or two later and it was about the same, so I dosed a bit more.. Now the following day I tested and am reading 0 phosphate?!? The kit is relatively new, how could this be? Was it in such demand that the plants ate it up that fast? Do i dose more or get a new test kit? It's a R*d Sea kit and only about a month old. Thanks
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:25 AM   #2
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you need to calibrate your testkit...

add a known amount of phosphate to distilled or RO water, so that you know you would hit the x ppm range and then test with your kit, you can then adjust either up or down when you do your dosing...
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:28 AM   #3
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Really? I pay for the company to do that at a lab, do these test kits come defective often? I've tested with this kit before and have gotten higher/lower readings, it does work.. I don't understand fully how to calibrate it.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:29 AM   #4
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Really nice tank btw (yours)..
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:45 PM   #5
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Is there AquaSoil in this tank??
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:24 PM   #6
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Is there AquaSoil in this tank??
how would that impact the P in any way?
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:38 PM   #7
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Since having a lot more phosphate (or nitrate or potassium or trace elements) in the water than the plants really need does no harm, it makes little sense to play around with test kits. Just follow the dosing method given in the sticky, and spend your efforts on getting the CO2 set up right.

Even the most expensive test device, gauge, or kit needs to be calibrated if you really need it to be accurate. And, the calibration needs to be repeated often. Everyone who does testing professionally does that.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
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how would that impact the P in any way?
ADA As has P and enough to last perhaps 5-10 years as the main source I'd estimate..........
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:16 PM   #9
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ADA As has P and enough to last perhaps 5-10 years as the main source I'd estimate..........
does that mean no need to add P through dry fertilizer in ADA soil tanks?
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
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how would that impact the P in any way?
AS absorb .High CEC,AEC.Am I wrong?
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
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does that mean no need to add P through dry fertilizer in ADA soil tanks?
No, it just means there's a source of P in the soil, it does not imply that adding PO4 to the water is bad/good indifferent etc.

ADA's tap is loaded with PO4 and they do large frequent water changes.

So P is located in both locations: sediment and the water column.
This covers all the bases and is synergistic.
Water column + sediment will yield the best growth and the easiest management.
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:57 PM   #12
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Any information on calibrating test kits? Trying alternatives to EI, the tank is med light and not Co2 enriched. Really just trying to learn how to read the plants but it's nice to have a solid test that I could fall back on but that is seeming intangible. And I understand how extra fertilizers and elements in the water are not necessarily harmful but really don't have time for the intense pruning and weekly water changes that comes hand in hand with that method..
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:57 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info thus far though!
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:33 AM   #14
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Yeah, I feel dumb.. Just saw the sticky, riiiight on..
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IwantToScubaInMyTank View Post
Any information on calibrating test kits? Trying alternatives to EI, the tank is med light and not Co2 enriched. Really just trying to learn how to read the plants but it's nice to have a solid test that I could fall back on but that is seeming intangible. And I understand how extra fertilizers and elements in the water are not necessarily harmful but really don't have time for the intense pruning and weekly water changes that comes hand in hand with that method..
That''s why I suggest using less, not more light, all plant growth begins with light, so everything like CO2 and ferts downstream from there is much easier to manage.

This is how you can control growth rates much much easier than limiting ferts. Light is 100X more stable, make that 1000X more stable

Then CO2 demand is reduced, this is the one thing that kills and stresses fish more than any other. So both ferts and CO2 are easier.

Growth does NOT start with N and P........it starts with light.

I've long noticed many trying to poo poo EI use the weedy growth as a weak sorry excuse to NOT suggest or use EI, however, these people have a poor understanding of the very basics about how a plant grows. I suppose they where not awake in 7 th grade Science class when they had to learn the photosynthesis equation??

We can control growth rates much easier with light and with CO2.
We may also chose plants that do not require trimming as much, or have innate slow growth.

These are very basic horticultural skills that many seem not to possess, then tell other folks their misinformation........ahh, and a myth is born on the internet.

I would suggest you read Tropica's article on light and CO2:
http://www.tropica.com/advising/tech...and-light.aspx

It is far more informative and helpful than most articles you will find.
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