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Old 06-11-2003, 06:07 PM   #16
Thomas
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I have had good success with soda bottle caps.

I use a (black) dripline connector (used in drip irrigation) and cut it in half.

Then I drill a hole into the cap, which is just a little smaller than the diameter of the connector.

Then I put a little ring of glue (Stix-All or any adhesive glue) on the connector, then push it into the hole. The glue is being pushed out between the connector (edited: and the bottle cap surface). The barbed end is then connected to the CO2/airline tubing.

So there is the tight fit, in connection with the glue, that gives me a really nice seal.

Still trying to find a smaller clear bottle for a bubble counter/CO2 cleaner that is clear and can be sealed well.

Hope that makes any sense... I wish I knew how to post some pix to explain myself a little better.
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
I
Still trying to find a smaller clear bottle for a bubble counter/CO2 cleaner that is clear and can be sealed well.

I use a small glass Soda Water bottle (as in Scotch and Soda). Built to contain carbonated water, so it has a good seal.
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:42 PM   #18
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Thanks, I will give that a try. I have been using a big honey bottle, but apparently it was not long-term-sealable.

I am still pondering if the CO2 injection (via inline generator) should be on the inlet and outlet side of the canister filter. I don't think the flow reduction is going to be a big problem for me.

If I put it before the filter (inlet), the plus is that there will be no bubbles in the water (CO2 "mist" not completely dissolved), so that would be 100% efficiency. The disadvantage that I imagine is that if the pump is turned off for some reason, the inlet side fills up with CO2 which could cause the impeller to airlock... Don't know why I would turn off the filter though...

Well, it's easy enough to try it out.
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpediem360
A brass barb????
It's a small barbed tube that is used for flexible hoses. It can barely fit on the inside of the airline tubing. The barbing insures that the tube doesn't just slip off.
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Old 06-11-2003, 10:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
The disadvantage that I imagine is that if the pump is turned off for some reason, the inlet side fills up with CO2 which could cause the impeller to airlock... Don't know why I would turn off the filter though...

Well, it's easy enough to try it out.

My DIY internal reactor (vortex style) airlocks everytime I change water, I have to tip the thing over to release the air, no big deal.

But don't you turn the filter off while you are changing water?

I guess we need a voice of experience here on possible air locks of the inlet side inline reactor...
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Old 06-11-2003, 10:53 PM   #21
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I run my CO2 directly into the intake side of my cannister and it never airlocks. The hose is literally strapped to the side of the intake tube in the tank.
I always shut down all filters during water change and never shut off CO2, with the filter off,there is no suction and the bubble just floats to the tank surface.

Getting sufficient amounts of CO2 into the water column is not rocket science until you get into the big boy tanks... 90 gallon +
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Old 06-12-2003, 03:41 PM   #22
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Thanks Buck, I will try that. I want to use some simple external "reaction chamber" (gravel cleaning tube) where the CO2 bubble go up against the filter current, which should dissolve most of them before they even enter the filter. Hopefully they can be sealed well against leaks.

No... I would probably not turn off the (canister) filter during water changes... unless the inlet or outlet are close to the surface... which they are not... Or out of fear of electrocution? Maybe I am missing something important here :shock:
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Old 06-12-2003, 04:37 PM   #23
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Missing something, probably not, my water return is near the surface so I shut it off. Really, I switch everything off at the power strip. Less chance of forgetting to plug something back in. All off, or all on.
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Old 06-12-2003, 05:51 PM   #24
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You're using a gravel vac as an *external* reactor? As in outside the tank? I'd like to see pictures.
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:48 PM   #25
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Somehow messed up my username. Got inactivated... I guess too many times trying the password. :?

Anyway... this is how I want to do it. Sounds a little risky re leaking? Me starting to worry now :roll:

Planning on assembling it next week, got the tube already, just waiting for the filter to come in.

Still need to figure out how to post images.
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Old 06-20-2003, 10:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger
You're using a gravel vac as an *external* reactor? As in outside the tank? I'd like to see pictures.
I did this the way I had it imagined, since there is not much to see, I will describe it for ya...

I used a 10" Gravel vac (by TopFin, whatever) with two endcaps, and connected it inline with the inlet side of the canister filter.

Why inlet side?? Two good reasons: 1) since the canister is below the tank, the waterflow goes down on the inlet side, and up on the outlet. Bubbles have a tendency to go up, so using the inlet side I don't have to loop the whole thing, it just goes straight in line with the hose. 2) The purpose of the reactor is to extend the exposure to water so the CO2 dissolves. If I put it on the outlet side, I am getting very little bubbles of CO2 coming out of the outlet, which I found somewhat distracting. Not sure what the fishes thought about the constant bubble bath. On the inlet side, 100% of it is dissolving.

The CO2 just bubbles into the inlet strainer.

There is nothing in the "reactor" that would clog or have to be cleaned. It simply provides an area of currents and slower flow so the bubbles get smaller and smaller until they get sucked into the filter, where they completely dissolve.

I am a little nervous about that gravel vac leaking, but so far so good, since the whole connection is rather straigth, there is no force bending or pulling it, so I think it should be okay. Maybe I will add a little silicone to it later to secure the caps even more.
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Old 06-29-2003, 12:37 PM   #27
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I've kinda come into this thread late but ...
A) Is the leak sealed or is it still going? Where exactly is it leaking from?

B) Always put the reactor on the outlet side. If the reactor does its job, you will get 100% absorption without using the filter's impellers or dirty water.

C) For anyone building a reactor here's an idea that I use and have built for others. All the parts are off the shelf and are assembled with no modifications;

DIY External Reactor
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