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#1 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I did some calculations last night, and I realized that I am already stressing the limit of my filtration system on the 135 Gallon. That coupled with the obvious need for better cooling and CO2 has prompted me to invest in some better equipment.
First on the list of priorities is to get my CO2 system built. I'm going to go with the Aqualine/Aquamedic stuff as I have read only good things about it, I'm already spending more then I can afford so whats a little bit extra :-) I should have this finished by this time next month. Second on the list is a whole new filtration system. I'm sick and tired of "consumer grade" canister filters. If this were for a tank 55 Gallons then I would stick to the traditional canisters, but for a tank this big its a ridiculous hassle. I am investing in a Rainbow Lifeguard Filtration system (Mechanical Modules, Chemical Modules, Heater module, UV Sterilizer, Fluidized Bed Filter). Its going to cost around $1500 but it will be worth it in the end. This should be finished in August when I get my raise. Third on the list is better fans for the canopy, and an air conditioner for the house, its just too damn hot already. That being said, remving a lot of the cheaper equipment from the tank will also keep the temperature down. |
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#2 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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Well this isnt going to be as bad as I thought! The new Filtration system is going to be around $1100 after tax (sometimes I hate living in this province).
I have decided to pick up the following Pentair Aquatics modules (Rainbow Lifeguard) 1 - Mechanical Filtration Module (Double Size) 2 - Chemical Filtration Module (Double Size) 3 - Heater Module (Double Size) http://www.pentairaquatics.com/pdfs/..._AF_SERIES.pdf 4 - 25 Watt UV Module http://www.pentairaquatics.com/pdfs/...terilizers.pdf 5 - Fluidized Sand Bed http://www.pentairaquatics.com/pdfs/...uidize_bed.pdf I'll draw up the plan later tonight so I can figure out how it will all hook together but I think I have a pretty clear picture. |
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#3 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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:shock:
God bless ya bro... The day I spend that kind of money on my tanks is the day that my tanks are making me money. :lol: That is quite the system you are looking at getting, if there is such a thing as a perfect system, that looks like it has to be it !
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#4 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Is the Rainbow Lifeguard system easier to service than an Eheim pro series canister ?
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#6 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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I would skip the sand filter unless you have a very high bio load and a very small plant load. That will save you money. And I would not even buy the UV module. Unless you have chronic GW problems.
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#7 |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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I would only get the UV if you plan on having it as a convenience piece, like a "just in case" kind of thing. Looks like a monster setup though, like Buck said, if there is anything like perfect, it is....
-Tim
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Tank in transition! 55 gallons, hard water.
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#8 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I've given this some thought and I have changed a few things.
I'm going to use the standard sized modules except for the Heating module and the UV sterilizer. But the sand filter still remains. And I actually have a reason for it! 1.) I keep many loaches,some of which are very sensitive and prone to parasitic infections. I I have priced an oversize UV to perform this job, I have it matched properly to the rate of flow. Many avid loach keepers use them for this very purpose. 2.) Again, I keep many loaches. They love to taste plants and reguularly prune certain plants to sticks. If I'm not as carefull in my cleaning regime my filters are overwhelmed by the added Bioload. I want the DSB to help with my biological capacity. The loaches eat a lot of protein rich foods as well, so water can get polluted very quickly. The FSB doesnt cost too much more then a standard module so I don't mind having it there. |
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#9 |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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Hmmm, so the UV is to eliminate diseases for the loaches... I would maybe run it for a day or two before water change/fertalization then since UV can do some stuff to nutrients in the water... This way, since you are doing it before fertalizing, you won't be wasting lots of nutrients, and you still get the benefit of the UV. Another thing you could do is run it a day or two after water change and then fertalize, but I wouldn't reccomend running it all the time.
-Tim
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Tank in transition! 55 gallons, hard water.
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#10 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I wasnt planning on running it all the time, there is a part of this sytem I havent actually discussed yet. I have placed an order for a bunch of x10 controlled outlets, wireless camera's and various other goodies. The 135 Gallon will be completely controlled by my computer.
So CO2, Ph monitoring, temperature monitoring, webcam, UV, heaters, and lights will be controlled by one of my PC's. A friend of mine is a robotics engineer so we're going to try and create some custom x10 modules for aquarium use. I'm going to post many pics as pieces start coming in :-) |
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#12 |
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Algae Grower
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Wow hope you keep this updated.It sounds like an awsome setup goodluck with it.
Pancake |
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#14 |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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That is slightly confusing... Is the water to the CO2 reactor coming from the bottom or the top? If it is coming from the bottom, then you might be running into troubel. Also, what are you planning on putting in the chemical filtration part? Looks awesome though!
-Tim
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Tank in transition! 55 gallons, hard water.
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#15 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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I wondered the same thing. To me it looks like a huge loop with the water coming in the bottom and trying to exit the top.
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