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Old 07-20-2011, 05:12 PM   #16
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I think I would use 40 degree optics, to get more PAR at the substrate, to reduce the light striking the glass, and to enhance the "shimmer" effect, if you want that. And, I would put the light a foot above the tank, because it looks good there, and it gives you good access to the tank for maintenance.
Would you suggest the use of 10 LED's then?
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:02 AM   #17
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Any more suggestions before I order the LED's? I have pretty much decided on 14 CREE XP-G's with 65 degree optics.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:07 AM   #18
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I think you will have enough LEDs to get good light for a planted tank. If you want to experiment with a PAR of 100+ micromols, I think you will want a few more LEDs, perhaps 9 to 10 in each row. And, I really like the 40 degree optics, but the ones you decided on should work too.

Or you could put the 7 in each row closer together, letting the light spread give you the light for the ends of the tank, which would be less intense than the middle, but not by a drastic amount, because of the reflection of light off the glass ends.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:13 AM   #19
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I think you will have enough LEDs to get good light for a planted tank. If you want to experiment with a PAR of 100+ micromols, I think you will want a few more LEDs, perhaps 9 to 10 in each row. And, I really like the 40 degree optics, but the ones you decided on should work too.

Or you could put the 7 in each row closer together, letting the light spread give you the light for the ends of the tank, which would be less intense than the middle, but not by a drastic amount, because of the reflection of light off the glass ends.
Honestly anymore led's would give you just an insane amount of light. Again my fixture is 35 inches above the substrate on my 29 gallon and when running all 14 LED at 1 amp i get 100 par. If i crank it up to 1.4 amps i get 140 par at my substrate. If i lowered the fixture to have it 12 inches above the tank it's even more. My vote is for 14 LED's or less.

Again my par measurements are not based of Hoppy's equation their based on a par meter so that might be where their is some discretion between the two.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:35 PM   #20
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40 degree optics.
12 inches above tank.
6 LED's per row, 2 rows. Sides are 2.5 in. from edge and 5 in. apart.
Easily 100% coverage.







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Old 07-21-2011, 09:43 PM   #21
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No harm intended :P
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:55 PM   #22
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haha sorry they're**************
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:45 AM   #23
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haha sorry they're**************
I'm just playing. There's a gif online of that somewhere; that's what I was mimicking.
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:29 PM   #24
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Alright, just made my Rapid LED order. I went with 12 cool white XP-G's with 40 degree lenses. Mike at Rapid LED has been super awesome to work with, answering any questions I have promptly.
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #25
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Alright, just made my Rapid LED order. I went with 12 cool white XP-G's with 40 degree lenses. Mike at Rapid LED has been super awesome to work with, answering any questions I have promptly.
yeah he's really helpful. I think 12 is a great number and i'm sure you won't be disappointed.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:26 PM   #26
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h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?

Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:58 PM   #27
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h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?

Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.
I spent $129.50 at Rapid LED and $20 at Amazon for the aluminum channel. Painting the aluminum should pose no problem at all, I just like the look of bare aluminum so I am going to skip that step.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:27 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by reybie View Post
h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?

Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.
I wouldn't paint the aluminum acting as your heat sink. It's bound to decrease the ability of the aluminum to transfer heat to the air and cause your LEDs to run hotter.
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Old 07-23-2011, 12:50 AM   #29
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Depends on the coating and finish. A flat black header paint (automotive) would probably improve heat dissipation...but those need cured at high temps. Would have to paint and then toss in the oven...
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:42 AM   #30
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I received all my LEDs today, so be looking for build pictures here soon. The fixture itself it's finished and looking mighty nice.
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