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Old 07-19-2011, 03:09 PM   #16
nonconductive
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i personally never mineralize and find it to be a waste of time. its going to get mineralized eventually in your tank anyways.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:28 PM   #17
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i personally never mineralize and find it to be a waste of time. its going to get mineralized eventually in your tank anyways.
Same here. Although I used Miracle grow organic not just regular top soil.

Where do you buy those lights? Is there a specific type? Curious because I have looked before at walmart and didn't see any. Didn't really shop anywhere else (It wasn't that big of a concern at the time) can i pick one up at HD or menards?
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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Where do you buy those lights? Is there a specific type? Curious because I have looked before at walmart and didn't see any. Didn't really shop anywhere else (It wasn't that big of a concern at the time) can i pick one up at HD or menards?
Yep...HD or lowes or any general hardware store should have them. They're general work lights. If you have a choice between 2 pick the one with the wider reflector... it's the 150 watt one.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:09 PM   #19
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Thanks! Very good info!

On APC they talk about spreading the soil over a tarp, soaking it and letting it dry out. Then repeat the process like 4 times to mineralize it. I didn't know if that was necessary or not. I didn't end up doing it so I was wondering what effect it would have. Guess it's not a big deal at all. Thanks

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/?p=vB52554
Very interesting article but I have a feeling he was slightly confused coming back from that conference. Mineralization occurs very slowly. You can ramp the process up by making sure your carbon and nitrogen ratios are correct and upping the heat/O2 rates but even then it takes a long long time and you would never want to allow the soil to fully dry at any period. My organic veggie gardens was amended this season and is watered and left to dry every day and it wont all be mineralized for years even with the high bacteria content of naturally amended soil (versus the low bacteria content of potting soil).

Soaking and draining would leech out much of the mineralized (fast release) nitrogen which would drastically help cut down initial algae breakouts and should help with tannins. The amending with clay and lime makes sense as well. Crazy how one very practical article has incorrectly informed so many when it comes to that one point.
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:44 PM   #20
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Yep...HD or lowes or any general hardware store should have them. They're general work lights. If you have a choice between 2 pick the one with the wider reflector... it's the 150 watt one.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
What type of bulb are you using? A compact? Can I put a compact in the incandescent fixture?
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:52 PM   #21
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What type of bulb are you using? A compact? Can I put a compact in the incandescent fixture?
Yep, a cfl will work in there no problem. You can choose any bulb you want. That chart earlier in the thread might help you decide. 14w,19w,23w are all pretty common cfl bulbs. It just depends on how much light you want to have. I'm using a 23w(@ 14.5" above substrate gives me ~75-85 PAR) for now, with CO2. I might be tempting the algae gods , but we'll see how it goes.
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:54 PM   #22
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Very interesting article but I have a feeling he was slightly confused coming back from that conference. Mineralization occurs very slowly. You can ramp the process up by making sure your carbon and nitrogen ratios are correct and upping the heat/O2 rates but even then it takes a long long time and you would never want to allow the soil to fully dry at any period. My organic veggie gardens was amended this season and is watered and left to dry every day and it wont all be mineralized for years even with the high bacteria content of naturally amended soil (versus the low bacteria content of potting soil).

Soaking and draining would leech out much of the mineralized (fast release) nitrogen which would drastically help cut down initial algae breakouts and should help with tannins. The amending with clay and lime makes sense as well. Crazy how one very practical article has incorrectly informed so many when it comes to that one point.
I'm glad you shared your expertise. Thanks
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:14 PM   #23
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Added some A. Reineckii & L. Arcuata. I think I'm done adding plants. Just need to let it cycle and then get me a paradise fish!



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Old 07-19-2011, 11:16 PM   #24
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Your plants look great!
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:31 PM   #25
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Haha, sorry, dirt gets me all excited.

Your plants look amazing. Keep up with the pretty pictures.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:38 PM   #26
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love the top view
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:54 PM   #27
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Love the look of the tank. Cambomba is a neat little plant, it grows in really nice too. If you get it under the flow it looks like it is flowing in a breeze.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:07 AM   #28
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That red cabomba looks awesome.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:01 PM   #29
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thats gold nesea

nesea pedicellata
quick question...have you kept this plant? Some pics I've seen it's orange-ish and others it's gold. Why does this happen?
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:33 PM   #30
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yes, i have kept it. i struggled with it for awhile, it grew distorted, pale and small. but then it grew great after adding extra calcium. it would get the orangish color the closer it got to the light. it also grew very slow.

you cant really see the orange color due to the nasty yellow light/ yellow water and my lack of camera skills.

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