Tired of having to trim and replant leggy stems
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:16 PM   #1
wonder woman
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Tired of having to trim and replant leggy stems


With the background stem plants on one side of my tank, I'm getting really frustrated with constantly having to cut off and re-plant the more-lush top half. I have tried ambulia (grows VERY leggy with my light and co2 amounts), but now I'm having better luck with green and red myrio (grows faster, looks better, slightly less leggy, but still leggy). I usually have to pull up the entire stem, cut in half, and re-plant the top half once every 2-3 weeks. Is there any better way to do this? Is there a way I can slow down their growth so I don't have to re-plant so often?
I have hygro as a background plant on the other side of the tank, which is easy to keep trimmed, and looks pretty lush, although it has that coarse, "weedy" look.
Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:24 PM   #2
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I think it may be the selection of plant, Christina.

Ambulia and most Myriophylliums just seem to get leggy as they grow. No matter how much light you give them, they just seem stringy and scraggly. I have keep both variety of plant and eventually replaced them because of that very growth habit.

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Old 01-25-2005, 10:54 PM   #3
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Yeah, I knew they were going to be leggy, but I guess I forgot that it would be hugely exaggerated in my tank because of the relatively low light and co2 levels. I just wanted to try something fancier and different than good ol' hygro. And I wanted to see if red myrio would actually GROW in my tank (it does, surprisingly fast, but l-e-g-g-y). What else do you think might work back there? I'll give you the stats:
Back-left side of tank, behind very large rubin sword (whose leaves cut out a lot of light). Need a "foresty" look. Mid to low light (240 wpg), low DIY co2.
Should I just go with more hygro until I can go pressurized and get more light? Or should I pull out the huge sword and replace it with a smaller one? (You can kind of see the layout of my tank from the pic I posted in the photo album forum just a few minutes ago).
Thanks Mike!
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550g pond= koi, comets/shubunkin, water lillies.
165g RES turtle pond in progress.
100g planted tank= 240 watts c.f., 1 DIY 1-gal co2 jug, platies, angels, lace gouramies, congos, black neons, otos.
30g= cories, platies, platy fry, ghost shrimp.
18g= platy fry
10g= baby RES tank- Turtlebuddy
30g= temp. adult RES tank- Myrtlemamma
20gL= temp. juv. RES tank- Tweak and Mertle
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:32 PM   #4
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You could pull the Hygro across. I like big plantings of the same plant. It give the aquarium a continuity.

If you are looking for another plant to bide time until you get that CO2 and lighting upgrade, how about something like Brazilian Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephalia). That should add another interesting leaf shape and grow like a monster for you!

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Old 01-26-2005, 01:59 PM   #5
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Default ambulia

I noticed some strange growth in the school tank with the ambulia, the school tank is more compact. I think it may be due to lower temps. The CO2 in that tank is less than the home tank. Lighting is same temp but school is flourescents and home is CF.
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
I usually have to pull up the entire stem, cut in half, and re-plant the top half once every 2-3 weeks. Is there any better way to do this?
Why are you replanting? Why not just trim and leave the bottom of the stem in place. It will grow new stems that will be bushy.
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:55 PM   #7
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I also pull out my stem plants, cut the tops off and replant the tops.. The bottoms always look like poo, roots everywhere and no color. Is there something wrong that my plants always look like this to make me replant only the top portion or am I missing something???

Philip
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:26 PM   #8
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You should be aquascaping so that you don't see the bottom of the stem plants. In this picture the bottom portion of the Rotala "Green" looks bad but is hidden by the MM.

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Old 01-26-2005, 09:31 PM   #9
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IUnknown- I'm replanting because, like pjhaddock, the bottom 1/2 of the stems look like "poo". Sometimes, the stem part that goes into the gravel even "melts", but the new roots anchor the stem anyways. And my tank is not aquascaped in such a way that I can hide the bottom of the stems completely. But I prefer it that way. I actually like to see some of the nice black gravel.
I've noticed that in your tank, you really don't have any tall, shading plants, so almost all of the light reaches the bottom of the tank. In my tank, I have lots of jungle val and a huge sword, which filters out a lot of light before it reaches the bottom.
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MEMBER: #15 Eheim Pimps Club, Cory Addicts Anonymous, COAST, AGA.
550g pond= koi, comets/shubunkin, water lillies.
165g RES turtle pond in progress.
100g planted tank= 240 watts c.f., 1 DIY 1-gal co2 jug, platies, angels, lace gouramies, congos, black neons, otos.
30g= cories, platies, platy fry, ghost shrimp.
18g= platy fry
10g= baby RES tank- Turtlebuddy
30g= temp. adult RES tank- Myrtlemamma
20gL= temp. juv. RES tank- Tweak and Mertle
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:48 PM   #10
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Wonderwoman have you tried R. indica? when I grew it the bottoms would stay intact even when heavily shaded.
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:02 AM   #11
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I'm not sure- I don't remember offhand what it looks like- I'll look it up. I have tried red ludwigia, which turned green, and was overtaked by algae, but that was in the first month of this tank.
I'll take a look, and see if I can track some down locally, or on Aquabid.
Thanks!
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MEMBER: #15 Eheim Pimps Club, Cory Addicts Anonymous, COAST, AGA.
550g pond= koi, comets/shubunkin, water lillies.
165g RES turtle pond in progress.
100g planted tank= 240 watts c.f., 1 DIY 1-gal co2 jug, platies, angels, lace gouramies, congos, black neons, otos.
30g= cories, platies, platy fry, ghost shrimp.
18g= platy fry
10g= baby RES tank- Turtlebuddy
30g= temp. adult RES tank- Myrtlemamma
20gL= temp. juv. RES tank- Tweak and Mertle
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:14 AM   #12
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If you want to try some R. rotundifolia I can prune some tops for you. You can also try some Micranthemum micranthemoides (can send some of this to you, too). It gets very bushy as it gets tall as it is very prolific at sending out side shoots.

As for the bare/rooty lower stems, you can try pruning the stems earlier, while they're still in their prime. This will promote new stem growth. Also, planting the tops among or in front of the rooted stems will fill out the stand and hide the bare spots.
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:44 AM   #13
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Bill-
How kind of you- I'd love to give both of them a try! Please let me know what you need for shipping, or if you want something in trade (I have lots of hygro , some small-to-medium swords (2 baby red rubins or whatever they are, they grow large with reddish leaves, a few small red-speckled ones), some tiger lotuses (lillies? both green w/ red speckes and all red). Anything there you'd like? I can post pictures of the particular plants if you'd like.
I think I'll try pruning the stems earlier, although they branch when I do this, which kind of changes the look of the plant. But I guess that's what most people do with stem plants anyways.
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-Christina-
MEMBER: #15 Eheim Pimps Club, Cory Addicts Anonymous, COAST, AGA.
550g pond= koi, comets/shubunkin, water lillies.
165g RES turtle pond in progress.
100g planted tank= 240 watts c.f., 1 DIY 1-gal co2 jug, platies, angels, lace gouramies, congos, black neons, otos.
30g= cories, platies, platy fry, ghost shrimp.
18g= platy fry
10g= baby RES tank- Turtlebuddy
30g= temp. adult RES tank- Myrtlemamma
20gL= temp. juv. RES tank- Tweak and Mertle
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:09 AM   #14
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Christina,
I'll PM you.
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