Metering(needle) valves selection for our CO2 pressurized system

[btimmer92]

Originally Posted by kevmo911

Well, I broke down and bought a couple metering valves via Evilbay. One seems to have been an especially good deal given what I bought it for versus the list price - an SS-4BMW. The catch: it's missing the metered knob. I'll email Swagelok in the morning and see if I can order one, as I don't see a part number in the catalog - just the specs for it. I'm wondering how much the price of it will offset what I saved by buying it sans parts. Though, it still seems to work as it should. And it's missing the nut-ferrule sets, though I already have the SS tube/NPT adapters for it.

The other, I took a chance on. It was quite cheap, and I can't find any information on it anywhere. B 22RS4. I'm guessing there was once a Swagelok 22 series that was discontinued?

Oh, and there are a bunch of used Hoke 2311F2B's for sale. They're used, and look like crap, but they're cheap as heck and I'm intrigued by the 20 turns to .075Cv. And it's already got 1/8" FNPT fittings, so no adapters necessary.

Couple questions. If I were to try to save some cash by buying any type of B-400 or SS-400 1/4" compression fittings, would they all theoretically come with the same ferrule sets under the nuts? I do realize that combining brass and stainless steel in a compression fitting is a bad idea.

And when tightening down the adapters, is there a rule of thumb on how far to go? With 1/4" tubing, Swagelok says to go 1 1/4 turns after finger-tightening. But how about with metal adapters? And once you tighten them, is there no way to remove the adapter from the compression nut? I realize the nut will still unscrew from the NPT thread, but the adapter doesn't seem to want to slide out anymore. Not a problem, just want to know if it's a bad idea to try to force it.

And one last question / comment: It seems to me that with the temperamental nature of diffusers, low flow metering valves might be less useful (or, in the case of extremely low flow valves like the SS series, possibly useless?) when using a diffuser rather than injecting straight into some type of reactor. Comments?

Useful Swagelok parts:
SS(B)-4-TA-1-2 male adapter, 1/4" tube X 1/8" MNPT
SS(B)-4-TA-7-2 female adapter, 1/4" tube X 1/8" FNPT
SS(B)-400-NFSET 1/4" nut-ferrule compression set

I have the SS version of the 22RS4, got it from maknwar, he told me it was an s series, but no big deal, it is still a great valve. And yes, I learned the hard way that the nuts n ferrules are permanent LOL. Swagelok should have made that compression ferrule more like a spring. It is too elastic so once it compresses, it deforms permanently, instead of bouncing back. Maybe stainless steel should not have been used for the ferrule...

[maknwar]

Originally Posted by btimmer92

I have the SS version of the 22RS4, got it from maknwar, he told me it was an s series, but no big deal, it is still a great valve. And yes, I learned the hard way that the nuts n ferrules are permanent LOL. Swagelok should have made that compression ferrule more like a spring. It is too elastic so once it compresses, it deforms permanently, instead of bouncing back. Maybe stainless steel should not have been used for the ferrule...

It's a predecessor to the s series.

[oldpunk78]

Originally Posted by btimmer92

I learned the hard way that the nuts n ferrules are permanent LOL. Swagelok should have made that compression ferrule more like a spring. It is too elastic so once it compresses, it deforms permanently, instead of bouncing back. Maybe stainless steel should not have been used for the ferrule...

They're like that for a reason. The Swagelok ferrules clamp down very hard creating a really good seal. They will actually cut the pipe if you go too hard. If they didn't clamp down on the pipe you would have leaks.

If you want to, you can actually use the nylon counterpart found at the hardware store. I just wouldn't try using that solution on anything but soft hose.

[Bettatail]

the 1/4" compression tube connection with stainless steel ferrules is 5000 psi rating, the brass ferules is 4000 psi rating.

and it is why retail is about $2 for a ferrule, back or front.

[R_Barber001]

Why is the solinoid always before the in-line compression metering valve?

[Bettatail]

why? I've never thought about that before...

here is what I think, if the solenoid is behind metering valve, the pressure air between the metering valve and the solenoid will create trouble once the solenoid is open.

[Bettatail]

updated.

[Bettatail]

Be prepare, guys, there will be flood of swagelok 22 series metering valves comming out from one of the liquidator on evil bay.

[maknwar]

Hopefully they are decently priced.

[Bettatail]

sorry, gentlemen, I got them all, a big slash on my bank account, . if any of you want it, let me know.

I was surprised, when I saw the listing, they had been listed for a whole day and no one actually went for them, probably the price was too high.
anyway, the items are now gone from the watch lists. If you had them in your watch list, you should know how much I got them for, I can probably spare some the same as I got them, don't hesitate to shoot me a pm.

[ianiwane]

Has anyone tried the hoke 1315 metering valves with the 3 degree stems? How do they compare to ideal valve 1 series. Numbers seem like they should be really similar.

[Bettatail]

the hoke 1325 3 degree stems is nowhere near ideal 1 series.
larger CV and orifice, less precision.

Tne hoke millimite 1 degreee stem angle CV is lower than ideal 1, but has a larger orifice, do need to compare them on side by side test.

Hoke micromite is hard to be found, but luckily, I have two new ones.

[ianiwane]

The cv seems pretty similar at .024 on the hoke and .019 on the ideal. Will that not yield similar results.

[maknwar]

That's at wide open. The ideal valve will take 20+ turns to get there.

[ianiwane]

Hoke takes 18 turns to get there. .024 is wide open as well.