Metering(needle) valves selection for our CO2 pressurized system

[Bettatail]

Originally Posted by kevmo911

The first is the economy option. The obvious choice is the AS-1200. It's a shutoff valve, and would cost you all of $12-15 shipped, new, from SMC, the manufacturer. It has its drawbacks - it's tiny (and therefore fragile), the knob is tiny (and difficult to turn in tiny increments), and in order to put anything on top of it (directly connected), you'd probably have to use both a stainless 10-32 nipple and an epoxy sealant (such as Loctite). And, you'd need a couple 10-32 to 1/8 adapters, which generally aren't available at brick-and-mortar stores. Alternatives are the Pneumadyne and Clippard manufactured valves, which are similarly priced and similarly effective. And both have optional larger handles.

kevin, wait until you have experience with newer model SMC AS1000 series needle valve, you may have different opinion,

The one you talk about is the bigger needle stem, old and discontinued SMC AS1200.

it is about $25 retail, the SMC AS1000 series needle valve.
I believe the needle valve on ADA co2 system is the SMC AS2000 series, works well, and it will give you good idea how a current model of SMC AS1000 performs. The SMC AS1000 has lower flow control and precise than the SMC AS2000 series.

[Bettatail]

there is a hoke micro mite currently, I am going to grab it.

[FlyingHellFish]

This looks like a cute Parker. There is also some weird Parker metering valve with a rotating tube connecter, lost the image.



This is from Circle Sea Control -



Anyways, Betta tail, can you tell me what you used for the two Parker H3 build you did?It had two silver DICI bubble counter, forgot what else.

Also, can one remove the Vernier handle from the H3? I remember reading that you can remove it to prevent tempering.

And how in the world did this guy get 400 dollars metering valves? Hope he giving you commission, he sold 3 today, one of which was to me.

Finally, isn't this a bit over kill? Once you get to 1 or 2 bps, shouldn't the cheap retail needle valves be enough? I don't think someone would need 0.3 or 1.3 bps, right? I mean, look at those paintball guys. They're using this -

[Bettatail]

Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish

This looks like a cute Parker. There is also some weird Parker metering valve with a rotating tube connecter, lost the image.



This is from Circle Sea Control -



Anyways, Betta tail, can you tell me what you used for the two Parker H3 build you did?It had two silver DICI bubble counter, forgot what else.

Also, can one remove the Vernier handle from the H3? I remember reading that you can remove it to prevent tempering.

And how in the world did this guy get 400 dollars metering valves? Hope he giving you commission, he sold 3 today, one of which was to me.

Finally, isn't this a bit over kill? Once you get to 1 or 2 bps, shouldn't the cheap retail needle valves be enough? I don't think someone would need 0.3 or 1.3 bps, right? I mean, look at those paintball guys. They're using this -

the second one looks interesting, but I checked circle seal control, couldn't find anything, probably they made it in the past.

don't remove the vernier handle from the H3L, no need to, I took apart a H3L to the very single part, and regret after I put everything back, messed up the orifice, needle stem got stuck and it was ruined.

I don't know which system you refer to, the Airproduct stainless steel?
here is the parts, in gas flow order:
co2 tank
CGA320, SS.
Airproducts stainless steel regulator
1/4 npt male to 1/8 npt male stainless steel hex reducer
Burkert stainless steel 2822 solenoid
1/8 npt all male Tee, stainless steel
and two H3L metering valve
1/8 npt male to 1/8 npt male elbow, stainless steel, 2 of them
the bubble counters.

[FlyingHellFish]

^ Yes, that the beauty I was talking about.

1/8 npt all male Tee, stainless steel - Alright got it, thanks.

Quick question, out of all the custom regulators being sold, not just you, what do you think the most popular is? Would it be the 0 - 60 working pressure ones , so basically the ones with max working pressure of 30 or 50 psi.

Or would it be the one that go from max working pressure of more than that, say 100 max.

[oldpunk78]

No one ever really specifies for me. Although I don't make any that only go below 30psi.

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Originally Posted by oldpunk78

No one ever really specifies for me. Although I don't make any that only go below 30psi.

Hi oldpunk78,

Interesting; I typically run about 22 PSI on my split system (1 CO2 tank/1 regulator/2 needle valves/2 aquariums). Is there an advantage to running at a higher PSI assuming you are already achieving an adequate PPM of CO2 at a lower operating pressure?

[oldpunk78]

Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist

Hi oldpunk78,

Interesting; I typically run about 22 PSI on my split system (1 CO2 tank/1 regulator/2 needle valves/2 aquariums). Is there an advantage to running at a higher PSI assuming you are already achieving an adequate PPM of CO2 at a lower operating pressure?

The reason I try to find regulators that are capable of delivering more than 30psi is because I don't gennarly know what type of diffuser folks want to run. sometimes you need in excess of 30psi to get an atomizer crack.

[FlyingHellFish]

To Seattle Aquarist - Not really, if you're getting enough Co2 then your working pressure is fine. If you end up deciding to do more tanks with some atomizer then you would run into problems.


I ask this question because I'm getting conflicted answers. Some say you can control the bps with a lower psi while others claim you will do fine with a higher psi and a good metering valve. The regulators you buy will all look the same (same series, model) so you have to take note of the working pressure gauge.

I find that the ones that are lower ( 0 - 60 ) are cheaper then the higher up models. You can end up with two models that look exactly the same but if one of them is able to do 100 psi, you would want that regulator for upgrades in the future.

Some of the custom systems that are build are max 30 - 45 psi and if someone doesn't know, they can be stuck with a regulator that can only power 1 atomizer. Then what you have is a custom build expensive regulator that can not do what a cheap retail regulator (preset 30 - 50 psi) can do.

So I wonder why people prefer the lower pressure and higher grade metering valve, it seem like over kill for our purpose. Would 1.5 bps be any difference to 1.3 bps?

But then again, at 30 dollars that Parker H3 is too good to pass up, even if it does look hideous.

[eatfood]

I think the Parker H3 looks awesome

[FlyingHellFish]

Originally Posted by eatfood

I think the Parker H3 looks awesome

Nice try, seller of Parker H3.

[eatfood]

ha ha - I do not sell anything, I just think they look cool (it is also the metering valve I recently purchased for my new setup)

[FlyingHellFish]

^ I know, it was a joke. The handle is too fat for my taste but some people like that. The only set up where it looks good is if you do two. Now I got to buy another one, hopefully the guy didn't ship yet.

[oldpunk78]

I personally think the big turn counter is pretty cool. I'd prefer it be the angle version but beggers can't be choosers...

I wonder if there's a regular veneire handle available? That would be less huge looking.

[eatfood]

Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish

^ I know, it was a joke. The handle is too fat for my taste but some people like that. The only set up where it looks good is if you do two. Now I got to buy another one, hopefully the guy didn't ship yet.

the double does look pretty cool