green blue algae growing on sand...
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:08 AM   #1
riddik1
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green blue algae growing on sand...


so, why is it growing there and what can i do to get rid of it?? seems to make like a carpet.
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:15 AM   #2
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dont know alot about green blue algae but you'll need antibiotics to get rid of it, its not a real algae but a type of bacteria thus the need for antibiotics, I have no expirience with this though, hope this gets you on the right track. A picture might help figure out if it is indeed blue green algae. so please post a pic soon, unless your sure its bga.
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:46 AM   #3
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This may help. http://www.jsctech.co.uk/theplantedtank/algae.htm
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:46 AM   #4
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Last resort is using antibiotics as it's bad for the 'good' bio (imo).
It doesn't stick to things very well and siphons off easily. Using air line tubing and a small straw/tube you don't need to do a huge WC, siphon what you can get and direct inject the rest.
H2O2 will kill it. 3% hydrogen peroxide. Find a syringe and stay at or below 2ml per gallon. Shut off your filter then let the tank settle for a few minutes then using the syringe squirt the H2O2 directly on it.

HTH

edit: BGA stinks really bad (nasty)
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:06 AM   #5
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increase the nitrate levels and this will solve this algae issue, normally it occur tank with high light, good co2, but lack of Nitrate, make sure you add other important nutrients.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:08 AM   #6
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BLAST.... yes its definitly blue green. so a total black out. i dont get it tho. my nitrates have been reading 20-30 and i have good water flow. i have a fluval 304 on full all the time (get rinsed once a month) and a powerhead for diffusing co2. well, there is no denying it cause i got it. would a full change of the substrate do the trick too?

edit: thanx for all the help by the way guys
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:13 AM   #7
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black outs wont help its bacteria I dont think its photosynthetic. You will fail at getting rid of it without using antibiotics. I recommend using antibiotics and once its gone install a uv sterilizer. correct me if i am wrong as i am not 100% sure but from what i have read and seen this seems to me that thats the only way to really solve this issue.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:24 AM   #8
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so.. if i dose with peroxide or antibiotic what will it do to my fish? i currently have 2 angels, 3 rams, a pleco and an algae eater. should i set up a quarantine for the fish? also, will the cyanobacteria be living in the filter? or does it die with no light?
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riddik1 View Post
BLAST.... yes its definitly blue green. so a total black out. i dont get it tho. my nitrates have been reading 20-30 and i have good water flow. i have a fluval 304 on full all the time (get rinsed once a month) and a powerhead for diffusing co2. well, there is no denying it cause i got it. would a full change of the substrate do the trick too?

edit: thanx for all the help by the way guys
test kits does not measure the correct nitrate, my nitrate was 100+ppm off the chart and plants did not show any improvement, i start dosing recommended does of N and plants starting growing much better and algae free. don't worry extra nitrate is not going to kill anything, black out is not going to work either, its an temperory solution and you will fail at it. you can use hydrogen peroxide as mentioned above, but use it only if you have no other choice. no need to change the substrate either.

IMO i would start adding extra nitrate to solve this issue. are you adding any N at all? if you are waiting from the nitrate to build up naturally then this will always give you wrong test results.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:29 AM   #10
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so.. if i dose with peroxide or antibiotic what will it do to my fish? i currently have 2 angels, 3 rams, a pleco and an algae eater. should i set up a quarantine for the fish? also, will the cyanobacteria be living in the filter? or does it die with no light?

do you have a picture of your tank and algae? i would like to see how it looks like and how bad it is.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:48 AM   #11
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no, i dont have a pic... it was pretty minor for now, about 15% of the tank and i siphoned most of that off but it comes back. i am using flourish but not regularly. im not sure how much to use. do i need a fert with a higher N?
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:39 AM   #12
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but there are no easy fixes, dosing excel wont work either =/ but here is a link to the rather lengthy process of getting rid of it. I have not done this and have little to no experience with blue green algae. anyways here is the link best of luck to you.

http://www.myfishtank.net/articles/b...algae-article/
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:47 PM   #13
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you can use hydrogen peroxide as mentioned above, but use it only if you have no other choice.
I'm confused by this advice. Using H2O2 is the least evasive treatment to the water column. HP burns the cell wall on the bacteria killing it and in the process breaks down becoming inert. Staying at a daily dose rate below 2ml/g is 99.9% safe by all reports from those that have used it. Fish and plants can remain in the tank safely during treatment. Daily vacuuming and spot treatment over a week's time has made this stuff disappear the few times I've seen it in the last few years. Used antibiotic treatments in the past and the cost is high for larger tanks along with the other draw backs to doing that.

UV sterilizer use at the correct dwell rate kills it once it's drawn through the unit. Having several of these it was used also when I eliminated BGA.

Opting to use antibiotic treatments with the known effects on the biological filter and possibility of repeating the tanks cycle why waste the money? Drastic treatment for those impatient for results could still be done cheaply with HP. 3% topical hydrogen peroxide is about a $1.00/Qt.

Clean the tank and filter then treat @ 10ml/g

Treatment of 10mL per gallon is the dose used to kill algae and practically all bacteria and parasites, protozoans, etc. Established treatment at this dosage is to isolate the filter (shut it down to save your cycle bacteria) allow for circulation with a power head or air stone. 3-5 hour stand time on the treatment then do a 50% water change followed by a 25% water change after 24 hours. The filter can be restarted after the 50% water change. Delicate plants can melt but what was in the tank, be it algae or bacteria is toast.

This is the highest dosing of HP recommended by fish breeders on my other favorite website. I've used this dosing level twice to good result on scaled fish and followed the water changing recommendation.

HP has strong oxidizing properties. It is a powerful bleaching agent. The oxidizing capacity of hydrogen peroxide is so strong that it is considered a highly reactive oxygen. (Wikipedia)

Pleco, Cory and loaches can react badly to high doses of HP. Remove your fish to a separate tank and expect a cycle at 10ml/g if the filter is left running. There are tons of HP threads on the web because it's cheap and it works.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
I'm confused by this advice. Using H2O2 is the least evasive treatment to the water column. HP burns the cell wall on the bacteria killing it and in the process breaks down becoming inert.
I can tell you I took this advice from "wkndracer* about using peroxide and that it absolutely worked and no fish were bothered by it at all. I had a massive outbreak of BGA this winter due to repeated power failures, drastic temp drops, and minimum care due to all the above and having flu at the same time.

I did exactly what he recommended, and I'm glad I did! I guess wasn't such a bad thing that I couldn't get to the LPS to get antibiotics due to ice storms. I learned something new and useful. I should also add that I'm heavy on loaches, tetras, and cats; all sensitive fish to many meds. As long as you don't get the peroxide directly on them it doesn't bother them at all.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:05 PM   #15
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I have the same issue as reddik (cyano on sand substrate/few plants, etc) and I have been using peroxide for the last few days as a general additive and directing the flow of it over the affected plants. The plants have cleared up nicely. My pool-filter sand substrate has some areas that are really thick with it, though. I had been thinking of just "capping" these areas with more sand. After finding this thread, my next step (this afternoon) will be to use a syringe and spare air line to spot treat these areas. If doing this on the substrate surface doesn't eradicate it, I plan on going into the sand substrate to release the H202.

I'll try to post some before, during treatment, and after treatment pics for y'all.
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