how to connect pieces of driftwood?
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:21 PM   #1
Dave-H
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how to connect pieces of driftwood?


Hello all -

I am planning a minor rescape and I'll be removing 3 big pieces of driftwood in the process. I really like how it looks when the 3 pieces are put together into 1 craggy piece, but they are sort of just leaning against each other and they flop around a bit when I'm working on the tank.

I want to make them more secure by fastening them together. It would be easy to drill a narrow hole and drive a screw or two into the pieces, but I'm concerned about metals/materials that would affect the water conditions in some way.

Does anyone have any ideas about how to connect pieces of driftwood???
Any input appreciated.
thanks, Dave
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:25 PM   #2
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use stainless steel screws
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #3
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Thanks for your reply.
But I thought ss screws would quickly rust out and that wasn't good for the tank. Not true?
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:32 PM   #4
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tie straps/zip ties
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:44 PM   #5
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I think zipties aren't going to work well - these are pretty large pieces!
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:51 PM   #6
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Another Trick used in Saltwater to join Live rock is the use of Acrylic rods, drill the holes in the wood and fit the pieces together, very strong. I built 20 inch tall columns using this method. The rods do not have to be that thick 3/8 inch worked for me.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:52 PM   #7
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Stainless steel screws are stainless. They will corrode only slowly if at all.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:52 PM   #8
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That's interesting. How do you secure the rods?
If a stainless steel (or other material) screw wasn't going to affect the tank at all that does seems like the easiest thing overall.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:00 PM   #9
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Glue would work, alot of time by just using the same diameter drill bit as rod and rounding the end of the rod a bit friction and gravity will hold the pieces together no problem. Here is a thread from Reef Central, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1588395
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:00 PM   #10
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Treat them like wood dowels when doing carpentry
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:06 PM   #11
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stainless steel comes in varying degree of qualities, even the screws.... I've run into rusted stainless steal, oxidized stainless steel, corroded (from chemicals) stainless steel and even stainless steel that was able to be lifted with magnet.

So don't buy the cheapest kind Bring a magnet just in case, the ones that can get picked up or even moved by magnetism tend to be the lowest grade and will corrode.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:13 PM   #12
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Do it right, use some screws, predrill the holes. The whiny know nothings say the screw rust...which they do do......but........this takes many years, longer than most set ups last. Even here, 4-5 years later, I've back out some screws I used that where not even stainless, they where fine, a little corroded, but looked like they'd last another 5-10 years to me. Even the ones where they where buried deep in the soil etc and blackened anaerobic conditions. I've used SS but the plain old coated dry wall screws worked even better. Even 4 years later, no corrosion.

The small amount of oxidized Fe and other metals, so what.
Use the screws, I've never had any issues, the rest is fear mongering.
I've been here and done this for a long long time.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:15 PM   #13
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Ok, I'll drill the holes and use stainless steel screws!
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:19 PM   #14
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Agreed. Screws do the trick. Even if they rust out completely it won't hurt a thing.

I use brass ball valves too, with stainless balls in them, and have never had a problem... And the brass didn't magically kill my shrimp, either.
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:01 PM   #15
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Zip ties. Considering they sell 3 foot ones at home depot, I'm fairly confident you can find a size you can work with. Heck, you can even string them together end to end.

Easy to adjust or take apart if you don't like the way they hold.

-Charlie
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