Ok, I've been reading all the LED threads while at work and it's time to poop or get off the pot.
I have to replace the 3 bulbs on my 3x39w t5ho fixture soon and with the bulbs costing me about 25 a piece, I figure I might as well go LED and get it over with.
My tank dimensions are 90cm x 45cm x45cm or 36x18x18 inches. Light will be mounted however high it'll have to be to give me 70-75 micromols PAR rating.
I've always tinkered with computers, but never built anything of this magnitude before.
What I've ordered:
30 7000k Steve's LEDs. Half the price of Crees. (I only plan to use 28, but 2 are just in case of mess ups)
http://shop.stevesleds.com/3-watt-Pure-White-7000K-LED-2-Chip-3-watt-White-LED-2-chip-7000K.htm
2 Mean Well LPC-60-1050 drivers
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-51/Mean-Well-LPC-dsh-60-dsh-1050-constant/Detail
Power cords, thermal adhesive and hanging kits.
Total spent so far: 181.28
Still need: heat sink.
I was about to buy a 30x7.2 inch heat sink from heatsink usa but shipping was ridiculous! I'm going to try to find a local computer store to get one. Otherwise I'll get some aluminum and attach fans to it.
I'm going off this post
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/127304-catalina-aquarium-leds-2.html#post1281039
as far as par goes. He got about 110ish PAR at the substrate from his fixture with 48 LEDs, so I'm hoping with less LEDs I can get to my goal of about 75 umols
I realize this will still put me at pretty high light, but I will lift the fixture and hopefully this will 1. reduce the PAR, and 2. help the light spread out better.
Our local club has a PAR meter that I can use so I'll provide solid numbers once I finish.
Here is the proposed wire up. It's not to scale or anything, but it gives you a general idea. 2 "arrays" on the side, and a big "array" in the middle.
Any help and what not would be great!
I have to replace the 3 bulbs on my 3x39w t5ho fixture soon and with the bulbs costing me about 25 a piece, I figure I might as well go LED and get it over with.
My tank dimensions are 90cm x 45cm x45cm or 36x18x18 inches. Light will be mounted however high it'll have to be to give me 70-75 micromols PAR rating.
I've always tinkered with computers, but never built anything of this magnitude before.
What I've ordered:
30 7000k Steve's LEDs. Half the price of Crees. (I only plan to use 28, but 2 are just in case of mess ups)
http://shop.stevesleds.com/3-watt-Pure-White-7000K-LED-2-Chip-3-watt-White-LED-2-chip-7000K.htm
2 Mean Well LPC-60-1050 drivers
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-51/Mean-Well-LPC-dsh-60-dsh-1050-constant/Detail
Power cords, thermal adhesive and hanging kits.
Total spent so far: 181.28
Still need: heat sink.
I was about to buy a 30x7.2 inch heat sink from heatsink usa but shipping was ridiculous! I'm going to try to find a local computer store to get one. Otherwise I'll get some aluminum and attach fans to it.
I'm going off this post
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/127304-catalina-aquarium-leds-2.html#post1281039
as far as par goes. He got about 110ish PAR at the substrate from his fixture with 48 LEDs, so I'm hoping with less LEDs I can get to my goal of about 75 umols
I realize this will still put me at pretty high light, but I will lift the fixture and hopefully this will 1. reduce the PAR, and 2. help the light spread out better.
Our local club has a PAR meter that I can use so I'll provide solid numbers once I finish.
Here is the proposed wire up. It's not to scale or anything, but it gives you a general idea. 2 "arrays" on the side, and a big "array" in the middle.
Any help and what not would be great!