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DIY LED for 90cm/36 inch 48 gallon tank -FINISHED! Pics/PAR levels on page 2

25K views 63 replies 21 participants last post by  newbieplanter 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, I've been reading all the LED threads while at work and it's time to poop or get off the pot.

I have to replace the 3 bulbs on my 3x39w t5ho fixture soon and with the bulbs costing me about 25 a piece, I figure I might as well go LED and get it over with.

My tank dimensions are 90cm x 45cm x45cm or 36x18x18 inches. Light will be mounted however high it'll have to be to give me 70-75 micromols PAR rating.

I've always tinkered with computers, but never built anything of this magnitude before.

What I've ordered:
30 7000k Steve's LEDs. Half the price of Crees. (I only plan to use 28, but 2 are just in case of mess ups)
http://shop.stevesleds.com/3-watt-Pure-White-7000K-LED-2-Chip-3-watt-White-LED-2-chip-7000K.htm

2 Mean Well LPC-60-1050 drivers
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-51/Mean-Well-LPC-dsh-60-dsh-1050-constant/Detail

Power cords, thermal adhesive and hanging kits.

Total spent so far: 181.28

Still need: heat sink.

I was about to buy a 30x7.2 inch heat sink from heatsink usa but shipping was ridiculous! I'm going to try to find a local computer store to get one. Otherwise I'll get some aluminum and attach fans to it.



I'm going off this post
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/127304-catalina-aquarium-leds-2.html#post1281039
as far as par goes. He got about 110ish PAR at the substrate from his fixture with 48 LEDs, so I'm hoping with less LEDs I can get to my goal of about 75 umols

I realize this will still put me at pretty high light, but I will lift the fixture and hopefully this will 1. reduce the PAR, and 2. help the light spread out better.

Our local club has a PAR meter that I can use so I'll provide solid numbers once I finish.

Here is the proposed wire up. It's not to scale or anything, but it gives you a general idea. 2 "arrays" on the side, and a big "array" in the middle.



Any help and what not would be great!
 
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#2 ·
Those look like great LEDs for an aquarium, but I notice they are for a maximum of 700 mAmps, and the Meanwell driver you are getting will drive them at 1050 mAmps, maximum. You will need to use an ammeter to adjust the driver down to 700 mAmps before using it.

Judging by my LED light, using 130 lumen LEDs vs your 220 lumen LEDs, you might get about 80 micromols of PAR at 18 inches. I think I would try to evenly space the LEDs, about 3-3.5 inches apart, leaving the middle of the fixture blank because of the cross brace on the tank. And, I think I would use all 30 LEDs, in two 15 LED strings. Meanwell drivers have an adjustment screw for the output voltage, so you should be able to raise the voltage enough to accommodate 15 LEDs. You could then use 3 rows of LEDs, 10 in each row, spaced 3.25 inches apart, with about a 6 inch gap in the middle. This would be close to my setup, except with about twice the PAR.

I don't think you need a finned heat exchanger for this. Look at getting aluminum channels, 1/8" thick aluminum, one channel per row of LEDs. In fact, this would be a good time to do a lot of thinking about how you will house the heatsink, or whether you want the heatsink itself to be the housing, and how to hang it. Ebay has some stores that sell aluminum channels - Online Metal Supply is one.
 
#3 ·
#7 ·
Those LEDs produce a 90 degree cone of light, so the light from many LEDs hits every spot on the substrate if they are close enough, and the closer together they are the more LEDs contribute light to every spot. Mine are about 3.25 inches apart.

Ok, I just called in to change my order to 3 of the 700 mAmp drivers, and added 6 more LEDS to bring the total to 36.

I guess I'll just do 3 rows of 12 evenly spaced instead of clumps of LEDs.

Good idea Hoppy. I'm tapping into SFBAAPS to see if anyone knows of a local source for heatsinks or aluminum channels . I'd rather not get it shipped since shipping would probably be pretty high.
The 700 mAmp drivers will work easier, because they limit the current to 700 mAmp, and, I just noticed that that model driver is not adjustable. It produces 700 mAmps and only 700 mAmps. It self adjusts the DC voltage as needed to power the LEDs. My driver has a removable cover that gives access to a couple of adjustment screws for current and voltage.

Your tank is about 3 inches more front to back than mine, so you might want to make the 3 rows a bit further apart, perhaps 4 inches. That will reduce the PAR, but probably still give you close to the amount you want. Since you don't need the ends of the tank quite as bright as the middle, you could space the 12 in a row at 2.75 inches apart, so they stop about 3 inches from the ends of the tank. That raises the PAR, bringing you back to about the amount you want.

If you don't mind a trip to Sacramento, you can find lots of aluminum extruded shapes, including about 5 sizes of channels at: http://www.bluecollar-supply.com/ And, several years ago there was a similar store in Oakland, but it may not still be there.
 
#4 ·
Ok, I just called in to change my order to 3 of the 700 mAmp drivers, and added 6 more LEDS to bring the total to 36.

I guess I'll just do 3 rows of 12 evenly spaced instead of clumps of LEDs.

Good idea Hoppy. I'm tapping into SFBAAPS to see if anyone knows of a local source for heatsinks or aluminum channels . I'd rather not get it shipped since shipping would probably be pretty high.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Hoppy, I'll look around for aluminum channels and if I can't find any I'll make my way to sacramento.

Tom mentioned that I may have way too much light, so I'm going to wire up 2 rows of 12 10 inches apart, then add a middle row as necessary to increase par.

Very good discussions, very good at keeping me from doing my work... haha
 
#9 ·
Since each row will have its own driver, you could easily add an on-off switch to each driver's AC power side, then you could run any combination of 1,2 or 3 rows that works best. For the slight added expense and trouble, you avoid having to take it apart and add a 3rd row if needed. I would definitelly do it that way.
 
#11 ·
I didn't think about including the on off switches, I never use the ones on my current fixture since they're on timers.

I was hoping, if I end up having enough light with just the two rows, I'd be able to use the leftover LEDs for a small fixture on another tank. So I don't want to install all 3 rows in and end up only needing two. Plus I'm not drilling my heatsink, I'm going to be using the thermal adhesive to mount the LEDs.
 
#12 ·
Ok, ordered some more stuff today, didn't want to waste time searching for heatsinks in dinky warehouses so... this is what I got. This is starting to get expensive haha

3x Flat aluminum bars (1 inch wide, 1/8inch thick and 36 inch long) 34.90 after shipping
added 6 more LEDs for 12.23
Added a fan kit from rapidled.com plus a 3rd power cord - 31.79 shipped

Just need now : Fans, I think I still have my old computer case which I can salvage the fans from... I hope...

Total spent: 260.20

lol... this is not cheaper than replacing the bulbs...
 
#13 ·
man just like you, i need to poop or get off the pot.

goodluck with this project, ill be keeping an eye on it.

I just did my pricing and will be spending about the same on CREE LEDs, i think? LOL
 
#16 ·
LEDs came in today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Will start putting everything together on Wednesday when I get home. Super excited.

This past weekend my dad and I built a housing for the LEDs out of sheet metal.


Started out by measuring it out, fixture is 36x 10x 3.


Cutting the sheet metal. My dad worked as a sheet metal worker so he has all these crazy tools. I don't even know what that thing he's holding is called.


Making the bends using a sheet metal folder


The housing after all bending is done.


Welding the housing together.

I don't have a pic of the finished product, but just imagine a metal box... haha.

I'll be painting it a flat gray to match the stand.
 
#18 ·
Started working it today, bought some gigantic 200mm fans. Total cost is now into the 300's, but I only plan to use 24 LEDs now, so, that'll reduce the cost down to about 260 again.

This fan is freaking huge. moves 110 cubic feet of air per minute and only puts out about 19dB of sound


THE FAN FROM HELL!!!!!!! It will eat your children. I may or may not cut the red leds out, but we'll see how it looks


Closeup of the stevesled 7000k 700mAMP led. Doesn't look as well built as the pictures of the CREEs I've seen


They're spaced about 3 inches apart


Soldering will happen this weekend. I just need to track down that par meter now...
 
#19 ·
It's DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOUTUBE LINK HERE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGdGrBI1suU

it's REALLY bright to the eyes, much brighter looking than my t5's looked. This may present an issue, but I don't have the PAR meter yet so I can't test anything out.

There is that Shimmer but it's very subtle since there's a lot of LEDs and they're evenly spaced. It's noticeable but not that drastic, I like it a lot.

This build was actually a lot easier than I thought it'd be, it's pretty straight forward, everything worked as planned. There was no real trouble shooting involved. It's about as plug and play as you can get right now. The only hard part would be building the housing, but if you were to retrofit it into an old fixture I don't think you'd run into that issue.

Anyways, onto the pictures.

Wiring up the LEDs. I'm not going to explain it too much, I just followed the wiring instructions online


LEDs are all wired up


IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!


The finished housing, painted it gray to match the stand.


Mounting the fans and drivers


Mounting the LED arrays


Light it up!




D'OH! LEDs are mounted too low in the housing and blinded us when we sat down to watch TV. Remounted the arrays using spacers


Voila!


View under the hood


 
#21 ·
That looks very good! From the outside it looks like a ready-made LED light. From the photos I can't even guess how much light you have - how long before you can get a PAR meter on the job? Which direction do the fans blow, out of the housing or into the housing?
 
#22 ·
Thanks Hoppy!

I'll be getting the PAR meter tomorrow night so I should have numbers either by then or monday. I've never used a PAR meter before so I'll have to figure out how to use it first.

The fans are blowing on the heatsinks.

If it turns out I have enough light (which I'm sure I do) I'll have 11 leftover LEDs, a Left over driver and a left over heatsink...

what to do what to do.
 
#23 ·
Well, with 11 LEDs left over, you have lots of things.

Most 3w LEDs can be driven from two AA batteries (with no driver). They maintain max brightness for a couple hours and then slowly peter off.

You can buy a two-AA holder at Radio Shack for $1.99, and has + and - wires. Just splice in an on/off switch and you have a perfect emergency flashlight lol ;)
 
#24 ·
I think the fans, arranged as they are, will work best blowing up out of the light housing, not down into it. That's because the fans now only blow on a small portion of the heatsinks, but if they are blowing air out, the incoming air will be flowing over most of the heatsink lengths. You can reverse the fans by just reversing the wires to the fans, assuming they are DC fans and not AC.
 
#25 ·
IWANNAGOFAST Any chance you can post more pictures of your tank and how it looks with your new light housing? I am very pro DYI and I think you did a great job, I'm just curious as to what your tank looked before hand (if you have any pics) and what it looks like now from different angles (if possible) thanks in advance!
 
#28 ·
I did some PAR readings today. With the lights 20 inches from the substrate this is what I got (this isn't a pic w/ the LEDs, just an old pic I had w/ t5's on the tank)



Kind of disappointing actually, puts me at low -med light, not what I was aiming for. I will be adding a 3rd array, probably with just 6 LEDs this time to the middle of the fixture and see how it works out.

Or should I leave it as such?
 
#30 ·
... Kind of disappointing actually, puts me at low -med light, not what I was aiming for. I will be adding a 3rd array, probably with just 6 LEDs this time to the middle of the fixture and see how it works out.

Or should I leave it as such?
So that picture was of the old light fixture with the current readings, am I correct? - Since I'm learning, what are your desired readings for the different positions of the tank? BTW, any chance of new pics with the current light fixture?
 
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