Basic acrylic fabrication - Page 3
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:51 PM   #31
GraphicGr8s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaindew View Post
Like most fabrications with tools and materials, there are many methods or ways to complete an operation. Any and all power tools can be and are dangerous if not used poperly.

The operation you are talking about is done this way for a specific reason!
By using this method to SIZE the sheets. you end up with in this case 4 sheets that are all EXACTLY the same size in height.
No other way to do this.

The real fun is when you do this with 1" thick sheet material that weighs 200 lbs and cost big $$$$ . The HOBBY table saw / router table you see in pictures can not complete that work with the precision required.
A 4'x8'x2" thick router table with 4ft and 8ft fences is used, and yes you have to trap the material in order to mill it to exact size. Takes time and care but imho its easy and safe as any other shop operation.


You want to see some unsafe shop work stay tuned. Making small parts with big power tools is imho the dangerous work. Milling big sheets of plastic is easy and safe compaired

be safe

md
And this is not safe and not being used properly.
Yes, you can get parts exactly the same size using traditional methods. It's done all the time in woodworking.
I've got 4, maybe 5 routers. My largest is PC's largest (and most expensive) and is a beast.

A friend of mine was an acrylic guru. Use to build windshields for boats. Large boats. (plus cabinets out of acrylic. This guy was good) Taught me the little I know about working with it. I've consistently gotten parts exactly the same size using normal wood working techniques. I've also done it the same way you have shown.
The way you are showing is NOT for a newbie who isn't 100% familiar with a router and how it can hurt the acrylic. Not to mention lost digits.

As for all the sheets being the same size. While true, all you have to do is lose concentration for a nano second and you'll have a divot. All the panels will be the same size though. And all the sides may be the right size. Without following proper technique at the saw you may find you have a parallelogram instead of a square/rectangle.
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:08 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
And this is not safe and not being used properly.
Yes, you can get parts exactly the same size using traditional methods. It's done all the time in woodworking.
I've got 4, maybe 5 routers. My largest is PC's largest (and most expensive) and is a beast.

A friend of mine was an acrylic guru. Use to build windshields for boats. Large boats. (plus cabinets out of acrylic. This guy was good) Taught me the little I know about working with it. I've consistently gotten parts exactly the same size using normal wood working techniques. I've also done it the same way you have shown.
The way you are showing is NOT for a newbie who isn't 100% familiar with a router and how it can hurt the acrylic. Not to mention lost digits.

As for all the sheets being the same size. While true, all you have to do is lose concentration for a nano second and you'll have a divot. All the panels will be the same size though. And all the sides may be the right size. Without following proper technique at the saw you may find you have a parallelogram instead of a square/rectangle.


I'm no guru, just a simple man making his way in the universe.
md
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:53 AM   #33
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Checking fabricated flange and taking measurements for access opening.
Next step will be milling access opening and finish edges.

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Old 09-27-2012, 12:54 PM   #34
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I'm looking at the flange and thinking ......................yes he's a Guru! Great job on the write up. This has to be one of the best and comprehensive explanations, on working with Acrylics, I've seen in any forum including RC. PS there's a professional guy, with over twenty years experience, over on RC that routes his "Acrylic" panels the exact same way. Your posting definitely deserves sticky status. -Larry-
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:24 PM   #35
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Fabricated the pattern for the size hole desired from masonite
Used double stick tape to attach to acrylic part and a router with pattern bit to mill opening.



Flange with milled opening.



I will repeat this step for a couple more acrylic flanges
md
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #36
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Awesome skills and hardly basic!
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:35 PM   #37
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What are you going to use the flanges for anyway?
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach_six View Post
Awesome skills and hardly basic!
Thanks for reading.
This stuff is fun to fabricate and photograph.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickled_Herring View Post
What are you going to use the flanges for anyway?
Check back now and then to see all the parts come together.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:31 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickled_Herring View Post
I'm looking at the flange and thinking ......................yes he's a Guru! Great job on the write up. This has to be one of the best and comprehensive explanations, on working with Acrylics, I've seen in any forum including RC. PS there's a professional guy, with over twenty years experience, over on RC that routes his "Acrylic" panels the exact same way. Your posting definitely deserves sticky status. -Larry-

Thank you for nice comment

People -"James"- at Invision acrylics are pros and I would bet they forgot more tricks on fabrication of acrylic then I will ever know
md
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:46 PM   #40
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This is to show all readers that mistakes are made and things break.
Skill saw blade I use to hog out hole to rough size got hot and stuck, breaking the clamped part.
As a result I get to repeat about 50 steps to make a new one.
Its all part of fabricating stuff, and it pays to be very carefull with every step or your back to 1st base.



Picture of new part being threaded for nylon thumb screws. "almost done"





md

Last edited by mountaindew; 10-21-2012 at 12:57 PM.. Reason: add pic
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:53 PM   #41
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Clamped part with pattern attached in drill press and drilled hole for saber saw blade.


Then clamped part in vise to rough cut opening with saber saw
staying about 1/4" away from pattern edge.


Image shows finished rough cut hole ready for router edge milling.



Check router bit position before milling out opening. A standard carbide 1/4" shank pattern bit with bearing is used.


md
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:22 AM   #42
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Cut some base parts from scrap


Setup Router with 45 deg edge bit and bearing. placed in router table with fence set to desired chamfer



Run some test scrap to check chamfer
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:59 PM   #43
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Side tracked on another project



All kinds of fun stuff to build
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:04 AM   #44
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Rough Idea of what Im working on.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:43 PM   #45
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About finished with 1st module the c02 reactor.
Just needs a little sanding and polish to finish.



Yes this is a extream amount of work just for a c02 reactor. Mostly I want to improve my fabrication skills and at the same time I end up with a very cool custom reactor.
Stay tuned for bubble counter next
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