Paintball Co2 Injection DIY Setup with Tons of Photos - Page 87
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:17 PM   #1291
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Originally Posted by Jaggedfury View Post
No one I know have used a Mini ASA On/Off Valve yet. I have seen it in person at the Paintball Store of higher brand name ones and they look funky to me. I'm not sure if it was a CP brand or not. You can try and let us know. I just don't recommend it because being as, you can get the regular ASA On/Off Valve for less than $10 dollars.

Let me know if it works. The Mini ASA On/Off Valve according to PB websites are more expensive...

If you can get it free, heck.. try it out. No harm in that. Wear safety goggles if you need to. Might seem funny but you're playing with co2 gas..
Ok...I will try this out and be "The Guinea Pig" LOL! I will take a few pictures of my setup too! This should be good cause it could possibly help others out if works or not! Before I forget just wanted to tell you Thanks for this thread, and what a wonderful help this has been!
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:02 AM   #1292
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Yepp! Also keep in mind. The Swagelok Needle Valve, or Watts A-41 or A-40 and even the Needle Valve I provide in Option 3.. they are not FAUCET HANDLE! So do NOT crank it like crazy. The key words here is "Fine Tuning". Which means "Slightly" adjust the Needle Valve. This goes to everyone who thinks the Needle Valve "T" arm is a Faucet Handle.

I've gotten over two dozen PM about folks bending the Needle Valve "T" arm. lol = )
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:06 AM   #1293
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Ok...I will try this out and be "The Guinea Pig" LOL! I will take a few pictures of my setup too! This should be good cause it could possibly help others out if works or not! Before I forget just wanted to tell you Thanks for this thread, and what a wonderful help this has been!
Great. Keep me updated. I do know for a fact, majority of the folks getting into this rig will most likely not spend $30-$50 dollars on a Mini ASA On/Off Valve. The Mini ASA On/Off Valve indeed are more expensive. This is basically because in the PB Sport Industry, any lighter weight will put less stress on the PB Gun Unit while playing.

Same goes for the 3.5 oz and the 4 oz PB Co2 Tank. Lighter weight = less strain on the PB Gun Unit while playing. Thus, that's why the 3.5 oz and 4 oz tanks cost over $30 dollars. While the 24 oz tank can nearly be bought for $12 - $30 dollars as well.

Still, would love to know how it works.

Thanks
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:39 AM   #1294
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Got it today! Prompt! I squished the compression ring so it's off to Lowes or HD real quick but this looks like a great little inexpensive solution! Thanks Jase!

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Old 02-10-2011, 12:45 AM   #1295
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Great! Your welcome. The thing about the Compression Ring, is to be very careful the first time you wrench down the Nut. If the Compression Ring, starts to move out of it's center position, loosen the Nut and re-position it. Keep in mind, once you wrench it down too far and just noticed it's out of the center position, it might be too late already. Replacement will be needed. They are like .16 cent to .46 cent.

Once you tight it down tight. You won't need to remove the Nut or mess with the Compression Ring ever again. Even when it comes time to refilling your PB Co2 Tank. It will not need to be bother with. So do it right the first time.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:45 AM   #1296
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Wish someone could come up with a miniature adjustable paintball regulator at a reasonable price. 800lb/sq inch is practicality impossible to modulate at the tiny flow rates used here.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:56 AM   #1297
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Wish someone could come up with a miniature adjustable paintball regulator at a reasonable price. 800lb/sq inch is practicality impossible to modulate at the tiny flow rates used here.
Page 77, Scroll half way down. Someone has to experiment with it to find the results.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...p-tons-77.html
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:58 AM   #1298
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Originally Posted by Jaggedfury View Post
Yepp! Also keep in mind. The Swagelok Needle Valve, or Watts A-41 or A-40 and even the Needle Valve I provide in Option 3.. they are not FAUCET HANDLE! So do NOT crank it like crazy. The key words here is "Fine Tuning". Which means "Slightly" adjust the Needle Valve. This goes to everyone who thinks the Needle Valve "T" arm is a Faucet Handle.

I've gotten over two dozen PM about folks bending the Needle Valve "T" arm. lol = )
I was told that "cranking" down on pretty much any needle valve (even expensive ones) will weaken/destroy them. The pressure needed to bend one of these is too much stress on the needle, and likely compromised the life and abilities of the valve. Just sayin
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:16 AM   #1299
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Actually, you'll be surprised how many PM's I get about bent handles from people.

I used all 3 Needle Valves before, I am still using them right now. For the handle to be bent.. you have to literally put some elbow grease into it.

There is no way you will be able to bend this if you use it right.

The Needle Valves takes so little effort to just slightly open it. And vise versa. I just can't see how you go upon bending the handle arm.

Bent handle arms are more common from female than male. Not sure if this is out of frustration or installation error.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:12 AM   #1300
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Originally Posted by Jaggedfury View Post
Great! Your welcome. The thing about the Compression Ring, is to be very careful the first time you wrench down the Nut. If the Compression Ring, starts to move out of it's center position, loosen the Nut and re-position it. Keep in mind, once you wrench it down too far and just noticed it's out of the center position, it might be too late already. Replacement will be needed. They are like .16 cent to .46 cent.

Once you tight it down tight. You won't need to remove the Nut or mess with the Compression Ring ever again. Even when it comes time to refilling your PB Co2 Tank. It will not need to be bother with. So do it right the first time.

Jaggedfury, could you post a picture of your needle valve's outlet with the tubing attached? I think I might have screwed up the compression ring since it's off the center when I tightened it. It's definitely not in the center, but it seems to work. I wrenched it down and there is no leak under a bucket of water. It is running at slightly over 1 bps now.

Is there anything I should be worried about? Should I get another compression ring and redo it again? The wrenching part ain't fun with a small pair of pliers...
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:24 PM   #1301
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Page 77, Scroll half way down. Someone has to experiment with it to find the results.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...p-tons-77.html
This I have seen. I am thinking of something like the Leland (expensive) or a small regulator like one sees on E-Bay (metric tank adapter)or even the 88G Fluval (unique threading).

I know that you have been able to maintain a steady bubble count below 1 per second.

I cannot get it to hold at such a low level for more the 8/12 hours.

I know I don't have a leak. I dumped the entire operating setup including the diffuser into a 5 gallon bucket and (aside from the diffuser) not one bubble leaked.

I have noticed that both the Swagelock and the Watt's get very tight over time when seated. Why should this be?

I did some research on the Barr site and it seems that this problem is common to the lower end regulators like Milwaukee. It appears that the only sure workaround is a hi quality needle/flow valve. Some of these cost twice as much as my entire paintball setup.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:29 PM   #1302
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Jaggedfury, could you post a picture of your needle valve's outlet with the tubing attached? I think I might have screwed up the compression ring since it's off the center when I tightened it. It's definitely not in the center, but it seems to work. I wrenched it down and there is no leak under a bucket of water. It is running at slightly over 1 bps now.

Is there anything I should be worried about? Should I get another compression ring and redo it again? The wrenching part ain't fun with a small pair of pliers...
If it doesn't leak any Co2, leave it. If it's not broken why fix it right?

I had this happened before with my very first setup. It worked fine.

A small wrench actually works better than a big wrench. Not sure about pliers. I use a 4'' wrench to tighten mines down. Using ones too long might over torque the thread when tightening too far.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:35 PM   #1303
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Originally Posted by sailnut View Post
This I have seen. I am thinking of something like the Leland (expensive) or a small regulator like one sees on E-Bay (metric tank adapter)or even the 88G Fluval (unique threading).

I know that you have been able to maintain a steady bubble count below 1 per second.

I cannot get it to hold at such a low level for more the 8/12 hours.

I know I don't have a leak. I dumped the entire operating setup including the diffuser into a 5 gallon bucket and (aside from the diffuser) not one bubble leaked.

I have noticed that both the Swagelock and the Watt's get very tight over time when seated. Why should this be?

I did some research on the Barr site and it seems that this problem is common to the lower end regulators like Milwaukee. It appears that the only sure workaround is a hi quality needle/flow valve. Some of these cost twice as much as my entire paintball setup.
Honestly, I have never even seen a regulator in person before since this setup. If I did, I wouldn't be able to tell the different. Probably seen it before at the Paintball store.

Like I mentioned before. My supplier that I get these ASA On/Off Valve said to regulate this setup will be very difficult. He has been selling over 5,000 + of these ASA On/Off Valve world wide. Over the year, he has been experimenting with regulators to bring down the pressure. I've shown him the link above that I showed you and he said that won't last long. The funny thing he said is, people who rig a regulator up to this rig, think it works, which it does but it's only for very short period of time.

If you have any questions that you want to ask him. Let me know here or through PM regarding regulators. I don't know much about them but I could cut and paste your questions to him and get response from his side of view.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:38 PM   #1304
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1b/3sec is hard to do but possible you might have to play around with it for a while to achieve that ie. set it to 1b/2.5sec and wait to see if it steadies out at 1b/3secs
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Originally Posted by Jaggedfury View Post
The Swagelok Needle Valve is capable of doing that. You will just need to fine tune it down and check on it until it set at desire bps rate.

My Needle Valve provided in Option 3 also is able to do that too.
sounds good guys! thanks for the input

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggedfury View Post
If you're going with the Swagelok Needle Valve, keep in mind it's a 1/8'' by 1/8''. When you go and find the end couple for a Compression Co2 Nut to go on it, it will need to be 1/8'' Nut to screw onto the Swagelok Needle Valve's output 1/8'' thread.

The Watts and the Needle Valve in Option 3 are 1/8''input by 1/4'' output.
if i've read correctly from this thread, the hardware to go along with the swagelok valve are
Watts A-700
Watts A-22

OR

Watts A-29
Watts A-706

let me know if there's other ways to go about it
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:54 PM   #1305
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BTW, jagged it finally worked with the 32 degrees on/off..i took out the side with the allen key and put the guage there with my swagelok on the other side. 1bps and the diffuser is pumping..wooo..thanks again for all ur help
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