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Old 11-27-2010, 01:26 AM   #586
Barristan
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Quote:
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I got my Deltrol valve today and it's great...except it won't CLOSE!!!

I got it all hooked up and had it shut tight. Hooked it up to my diffuser and there's CO2 coming out at like 10 bps.

The thing is not brand new either. It definitely looks used. Apparently NEW IN BOX! doesn't mean what I thought it did...
same here.
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:26 AM   #587
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Btw...has anyone tried these asa on/off's from amazon.com...they seem extremely cheap compared to the $30+ price tag's everywhere else...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2U0512136ZIU7
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:56 AM   #588
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I received my valve.... it don't work. It will not shut off completely.
Wow you were posting at the same time I did. I sent an email to the seller. Will see what he says...
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:01 PM   #589
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Wow you were posting at the same time I did. I sent an email to the seller. Will see what he says...

if the valve cannot close, it is definately defective. Mine closed fine.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:57 PM   #590
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He refunded my money, but this is what he said: "All of my Deltrol valves are brand new. Brass tarnishes. They are needle valve, not shut-off valves. They are mean't to meter the flow not stop it. While in certain cases they can be used as shut-off valves, they are not meant to be used that way. I will simply credit you for the item."

Brash tarnishes, yes, but does it get scratches on it from oxidation? I really don't think so. Anyway, I'm not a pneumatics expert so is what he saying accurate? The Wikipedia article on needle valves implies that they do close: "Unlike a ball valve, or valves with a rising stem, it is not easy to tell from examining the handle position whether the valve is open or closed."

Can any experts verify this?

Either way, it looks the moral of the story is that a 1/3 success rate for these valves indicates that they're not good for this application...
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:50 PM   #591
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Thanks again to OP for this.

FYI--I see a few people have used the System X ASA off ebay and had luck. The threads on mine were trashed, but for $4 shipped I'm not surprised.

Looking forward to receiving a quality on/off to get this going!
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:48 AM   #592
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@manhatton - I got a blue system x asa for my third set up off ebay and mine was fine.
You must have just gotten a defective one.

@Nicks - try using pliers to close the needle valve fully.
I thought my parker valves were defective when I tried to close them with bare hands. Its hard to fully close it with 800+ psi trying to come out without pliers.
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:02 AM   #593
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@Nicks - try using pliers to close the needle valve fully. I thought my parker valves were defective when I tried to close them with bare hands. Its hard to fully close it with 800+ psi trying to come out without pliers.
Ok, I'll try it. I tightened it pretty well with just my hand and it was still coming out like 10 bps. It seems like I would have to tighten it a heck of a lot more to get it to close.

Also, I noticed while spinning the knob that it has a it little bit of wobble like the threaded shaft has been bent...
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:36 PM   #594
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Default Dertrol Valve

Hello,

I've been following this thread for a couple weeks with interest. I ordered parts from iisports.com. Bob long on/off $7.99 (though it does have that side hole that was reported as leaking hope mine doesn't), Guage $3.99 and 20oz tank for $22.50. Ater looking at the Lowes needle valve I decided on the Detrol valve from ebay since it looked stronger.

Well yesterday I got all my parts, checked back here to set stuff up, and to my dismay found that others were having trouble with the detrol valve. I checked mine and sure enough I could blow through it . I wasn't closing either. (as to it being new, I would say mine is new, but must be quite old stock as the brass is tarnished).

OK to the point of this post. I haven't had a chance to get the CO2 filled yet, but I did tighten up the valve. I'll use KIETHY's photo to illustrate.

On my valve there is a nut under the knob. This was screwed down a few threads that prevented the knob from fully closing. Unscrew this up against the knob first and see if your valve seals. Mine did not (blow through test)

Then I opened the valve as far as possible, and tighted the nut at the body of the valve 1/4 turn with a 10mm wrench. The valve now passes the blow through test. It may be several days before I can get the CO2 tank filled for a full pressure test but at least this improved the valve with the blow through test, and I would estimate that I still have about 1 full turn of the nut if it doesn't pass the 800psi test.

I hope this helps, and maybe one of you with the valve and a full tank can test this theroy. Also a big thanks to the original poster of this whole CO2 system.


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Old 11-28-2010, 02:11 PM   #595
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[QUOTE=NickS;1213887]He refunded my money, but this is what he said: "All of my Deltrol valves are brand new. Brass tarnishes. They are needle valve, not shut-off valves. They are mean't to meter the flow not stop it. While in certain cases they can be used as shut-off valves, they are not meant to be used that way. I will simply credit you for the item."
QUOTE]


Nicks,
I do not think he knows what he's talking about. Although the deltrol valve is a needle valve, but, the valve is not named needle valve in deltrol's specs sheet. It is named FLOW CONTROL VALVE. Let me repeat and highlight the word FLOW CONTROL. If the valve cannot shut off, then how in the world is it suppose to control flow? Just want to let you know that the seller might not know enough info about the item and made a erronous comment to cover his a**. In addition, what good is a valve when it cannot even shut off? might as well not have a valve.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:00 AM   #596
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Ok, so has anyone found a needle valve that works better then the Watts valve and the Deltrol valve??????????
I keep having the annoying problem of the valve slowing down then shutting down completely.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:31 AM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zz_its_me View Post
On my valve there is a nut under the knob. This was screwed down a few threads that prevented the knob from fully closing. Unscrew this up against the knob first and see if your valve seals. Mine did not (blow through test)

Then I opened the valve as far as possible, and tighted the nut at the body of the valve 1/4 turn with a 10mm wrench. The valve now passes the blow through test. It may be several days before I can get the CO2 tank filled for a full pressure test but at least this improved the valve with the blow through test, and I would estimate that I still have about 1 full turn of the nut if it doesn't pass the 800psi test.
I did try this but I will give it another attempt this week when I have some time. I'm fairly certain I got that nut as tight as it would go.

Also, the valve in this picture looks sparkling compared to the one I got. I'll see about posting a pic.

Either way, I got my money back so it's not a big deal. Just have to find something that works now. I might take a trip to a local pneumatics place this week.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:33 AM   #598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithy View Post
Nicks,
I do not think he knows what he's talking about. Although the deltrol valve is a needle valve, but, the valve is not named needle valve in deltrol's specs sheet. It is named FLOW CONTROL VALVE. Let me repeat and highlight the word FLOW CONTROL. If the valve cannot shut off, then how in the world is it suppose to control flow? Just want to let you know that the seller might not know enough info about the item and made a erronous comment to cover his a**. In addition, what good is a valve when it cannot even shut off? might as well not have a valve.
Yes, CYA is what I was assuming here, too.
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:06 AM   #599
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Yes, CYA is what I was assuming here, too.
NickS,
if you still have not returned the watts needle valve, you can try combine the two valves together and I am almost certain it will work. In theory, the Deltrol holds most of the pressure while the watts act as the real control valve. If you use this config, the watts valve will not have to bear the full 800psi and should work as a control.

Since the deltrol did not completely shut off, let it be and attach the watts valve right after the deltrol. Turn off the deltrol all the way. Use Watts to control flow.
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:10 AM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithy View Post
NickS,
if you still have not returned the watts needle valve, you can try combine the two valves together and I am almost certain it will work. In theory, the Deltrol holds most of the pressure while the watts act as the real control valve. If you use this config, the watts valve will not have to bear the full 800psi and should work as a control.

Since the deltrol did not completely shut off, let it be and attach the watts valve right after the deltrol. Turn off the deltrol all the way. Use Watts to control flow.
So can we buy multiple needle valves for a more consistent system? We would be able to connect them through a 1/8 to 1/8 adapter or whatever it is.
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