New Tank and Filter Design

OverStocked · 07-22-2010, 09:34 AM

I only speak from experience. If you are set on having it be on a central system, you really should look at some of the examples out there. The easiest to maintain and the most efficient to use are the simplest ones, usually.

IN the end, you will spend more time looking at your tank instead of what is under and behind.

With a planted tank, efficient mechanical filtration is essential. I recommend using filter socks on the input into the sump for quick, easy change out.

LIke so.

Allows you to switch out prefilters without even stopping flow. Plus it will make maintaining the rest even easier.

In the end you will find what is best, but you might be like some of us and end up doing it 3 or 4 times and spending wayyy too much before you get it just right. Thats what most of us do in most of this hobby.

soundgy · 07-22-2010, 09:37 AM

You have some pretty great ideas. This is what I needed. Not people bashing my diagram, but providing alternatives. I am drawing the new schematic now. Awesome suggestion on the sock!

OverStocked · 07-22-2010, 09:40 AM

The sock is a cpr aquatics, runs about 20 bucks with the mount. Get a couple of the socks so you can switch them out quick.

Sorry if I sounded discouraging, I just know what it is like to design, build, spend and then end up having to do it over again. and again. and again.

For the sump, provide as much room as possible.

soundgy · 07-22-2010, 09:58 AM

I will order some of those socks when I start building the sump. Those are cool.

Don't worry about it. It's hard to interpret people's emotions on these forums anyways. I really do value your opinions though. I have revised the drawing to a much simpler form, fell free to bash this new one.

I will probably make the sump a 55 gal instead of a 20 gal now since I have extra space without all of that stuff in the mix.

See the first post for the newly revised diagram.

nokturnalkid · 07-22-2010, 11:06 PM

The new design looks alot better. The only thing I would question is the heater/chiller on the 55 gal output line. I don't know how efficient it will be in chilling the other tank. How about having the chiller/heater on it's own loop in the sump? I'm not sure if that will work better. The heating and chilling is going to be the hard part since the smaller tank will raise/lower temp a lot faster than the bigger tank.

soundgy · 07-23-2010, 02:00 AM

Thanks! Thanks to water's ability to absorb and release heat, even chilling or heating the 55 gal will keep the 20 at the same temp. Even though you are right, the 20 could potentially waiver faster than the 55, the water would not have a long enough time inside of the 20 gal to raise or lower the temp enough. The equilibrium in water is faster than that tank can fluctuate. Water is awesome! The reason for not having the chiller/heater on it's own loop is to limit the number of connections and pumps. I like this design a lot now. I think there is definite potential for improvement, but this is significantly better than version 1.

Thanks for all of your suggestions!

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-22-2010, 09:34 AM	#31
OverStocked Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (76/94%) Join Date: May 2007 Location: SoDak Posts: 10,732	I only speak from experience. If you are set on having it be on a central system, you really should look at some of the examples out there. The easiest to maintain and the most efficient to use are the simplest ones, usually. IN the end, you will spend more time looking at your tank instead of what is under and behind. With a planted tank, efficient mechanical filtration is essential. I recommend using filter socks on the input into the sump for quick, easy change out. LIke so. Allows you to switch out prefilters without even stopping flow. Plus it will make maintaining the rest even easier. In the end you will find what is best, but you might be like some of us and end up doing it 3 or 4 times and spending wayyy too much before you get it just right. Thats what most of us do in most of this hobby.

07-22-2010, 09:37 AM	#32
soundgy Planted Member (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2/100%) Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 216	You have some pretty great ideas. This is what I needed. Not people bashing my diagram, but providing alternatives. I am drawing the new schematic now. Awesome suggestion on the sock!

07-22-2010, 09:40 AM	#33
OverStocked Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (76/94%) Join Date: May 2007 Location: SoDak Posts: 10,732	The sock is a cpr aquatics, runs about 20 bucks with the mount. Get a couple of the socks so you can switch them out quick. Sorry if I sounded discouraging, I just know what it is like to design, build, spend and then end up having to do it over again. and again. and again. For the sump, provide as much room as possible.

07-22-2010, 09:58 AM	#34
soundgy Planted Member (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2/100%) Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 216	I will order some of those socks when I start building the sump. Those are cool. Don't worry about it. It's hard to interpret people's emotions on these forums anyways. I really do value your opinions though. I have revised the drawing to a much simpler form, fell free to bash this new one. I will probably make the sump a 55 gal instead of a 20 gal now since I have extra space without all of that stuff in the mix. See the first post for the newly revised diagram.

07-22-2010, 11:06 PM	#35
nokturnalkid Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (75/100%) Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: HI, but Pueblo, CO for now Posts: 1,228	The new design looks alot better. The only thing I would question is the heater/chiller on the 55 gal output line. I don't know how efficient it will be in chilling the other tank. How about having the chiller/heater on it's own loop in the sump? I'm not sure if that will work better. The heating and chilling is going to be the hard part since the smaller tank will raise/lower temp a lot faster than the bigger tank.

07-23-2010, 02:00 AM	#36
soundgy Planted Member (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2/100%) Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 216	Thanks! Thanks to water's ability to absorb and release heat, even chilling or heating the 55 gal will keep the 20 at the same temp. Even though you are right, the 20 could potentially waiver faster than the 55, the water would not have a long enough time inside of the 20 gal to raise or lower the temp enough. The equilibrium in water is faster than that tank can fluctuate. Water is awesome! The reason for not having the chiller/heater on it's own loop is to limit the number of connections and pumps. I like this design a lot now. I think there is definite potential for improvement, but this is significantly better than version 1. Thanks for all of your suggestions!