My Paintball tank CO2 setup plan
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:40 PM   #1
haril
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My Paintball tank CO2 setup plan


Hi folks,
After having used the Citric Acid and Baking Soda setup for a few months now and playing around with various configurations and formulae I did quite a bit of research on the web and reading up on some amazing threads here and planned my Paintball CO2 setup. The first thing I wanted was to have two stages to reduce pressure from the cylinder and I wanted a high grade needle valve with a good pressure capacity to bring the pressure down first and then use a pneumatic flow control valve to do finer controls for the bubble rate. Here is what I came up with :

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1) I got the ASA ON/OFF Valve from e-Bay for $ 11 which has a gauge and a 1/8" NPT threaded hole. It came all the way from China and to my surprise arrived in 6 days flat. The quality is very good and fits perfectly on my Empire 24 Oz tank that I got on Amazon for $ 25

2) I had my eyes on this Needle valve which handles upto 6000 PSI and I wanted to play it safe with the pressure from the cylinder. It has got 1/4" NPT male threads and I got this on Amazon for around $ 11.

3) I picked up an adapter for around $ 3 from Amazon to fit the 1/4" NPT needle valve to the 1/8" NPT thread of the ASA On/Off valve.

4) I wanted a flow control valve for fine tuning the bubble rate after the needle valve brings the pressure down to a more manageable level. I got this Pneumatic flow control valve on e-Bay for $ 7, again from China.This valve has 1/4" NPT female threads and will screw on directly to the needle valve.

5) I got a 1/4" to 1/4" NPT Male adapter to attach my solenoid valve to the flow control valve for $ 2.

6) The Solenoid valve was off e-bay for $ 14 and has 1/4" NPT female threads on both ends.

7) The final adapter is with 1/4" NPT Male threads that screws into the solenoid valve and the airline tubing starts here.

I do have a SS check valve ($5), a bubble counter ($5) and a ceramic diffuser($6) which I will reuse from my current setup.

I tried to make sure that all the threads were of the NPT standard so that it is easier to attach the various components to each other.

I am still waiting for the Pneumatic flow control valve to arrive from China before I can complete the assembly and test it. In the meanwhile all the other components attach to each other perfectly.

I will post more photos as I assemble this along with updates as I test and use this system. I hope this will help others who are thinking of going the paintball tank way.

Cheers,
Hari

Last edited by haril; 05-14-2015 at 09:53 PM.. Reason: info
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:22 PM   #2
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I don't think it is safe to connect a solenoid to it. For the needle valve and flow control valve are not made to close the pressure for long periods. Besides this system last longer than the Citric Co2 and it is cheaper to refill than the Citric Co2.
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I leave it on 24/7. Needle valve is adjusted to 2bps.
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It last a good 5-6 months before refill. This is referring to 20z Paintball co2 tanks. I have two 20gallon long tanks
I am astonished that you got your ASA valve in 6 days from Ebay seller in China. It takes about a month for me to get my items. I think it is customs that is holding up the packages.

Are you still think of making an inline atomizer diffuser

Last edited by Hilde; 05-15-2015 at 02:29 PM.. Reason: added
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:20 PM   #3
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I don't think it is safe to connect a solenoid to it. For the needle valve and flow control valve are not made to close the pressure for long periods. Besides this system last longer than the Citric Co2 and it is cheaper to refill than the Citric Co2.

I am astonished that you got your ASA valve in 6 days from Ebay seller in China. It takes about a month for me to get my items. I think it is customs that is holding up the packages.

Are you still think of making an inline atomizer diffuser
I disagree. The pressure in a paintball cylinder is around 800 PSI and rarely touches 1000 PSI max. The needle valve I use is rated at 6000 PSI and it will be set to bring it down to around 60-80 PSI or so. The flow control valve after this needle valve will further bring it down. This pressure is well within the limits of the Solenoid valve, so no problems there as well. The needle valve and the flow control valve are never closed fully anyway but the needle valve with this capacity should have no problem even if I decide to shut it. Can you explain why you feel it will not work?

If you notice the other paintball setups folks here have made, a lot of them are using the Watts needle valve from Home Depot which is rated at around 400 PSI and that alone is what they use, which means it is controlling upto 1000 PSI for "long periods" even when they run it 24/7. I feel my system is more safe than using just one lower capacity needle valve to regulate the whole pressure.

I got lucky I guess with the shipment of the valve from China.

I do plan to make a diffuser inline with the outlet of my cannister filter but not rightaway since I have burnt up my fishy budget for the next few months.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Can you explain why you feel it will not work?
The terms pressure regulator and needle valve make me feel it may not be safe to shut it off. Pressure regulator controls pressure. Needle valves control the flow rate.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:27 PM   #5
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The needle valve I use is rated at 6000 PSI and it will be set to bring it down to around 60-80 PSI or so.
How will you know if it is brought down to 80 PSI without a gauge at the output of the needle valve. The gauge on the ASA valve will only show the output from the tank, right?
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:44 PM   #6
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How will you know if it is brought down to 80 PSI without a gauge at the output of the needle valve. The gauge on the ASA valve will only show the output from the tank, right?
Yes I will not know without a gauge and this is just my estimate of what the pressure will be when the needle valve is barely open. Could be slightly more or less but going by what I read, the working pressure at the final output is usually 15 to 30 PSI using a ceramic diffuser.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
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The terms pressure regulator and needle valve make me feel it may not be safe to shut it off. Pressure regulator controls pressure. Needle valves control the flow rate.
Again, I am not using the needle valve to shut off flow but needle valves can be safely used to shut off flow if used within their pressure rating. You can read in many threads about people doing this. Even if I am using a solenoid to shut off after the needle valve and the flow control valve, the pressure is still within its rating. However, there are models of needle valves out there which may not be shut completely due to the spindle design, etc.
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haril View Post
Yes I will not know without a gauge and this is just my estimate of what the pressure will be when the needle valve is barely open. Could be slightly more or less but going by what I read, the working pressure at the final output is usually 15 to 30 PSI using a ceramic diffuser.
What did you read that makes you think the final output will be around 30 PSI?

Last edited by Hilde; 05-17-2015 at 01:57 AM.. Reason: added
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Again, I am not using the needle valve to shut off flow but needle valves can be safely used to shut off flow if used within their pressure rating. You can read in many threads about people doing this. Even if I am using a solenoid to shut off after the needle valve and the flow control valve, the pressure is still within its rating. However, there are models of needle valves out there which may not be shut completely due to the spindle design, etc.
Yeh but if 1 of the needle valves fail and the pressure gets to high for the solenoid there could be a problem, which I would not like to invision.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:23 AM   #10
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Yeh but if 1 of the needle valves fail and the pressure gets to high for the solenoid there could be a problem, which I would not like to invision.
I think you are worrying too much. What if your ASA on/off blows off? OR what if the regulator on a bigger CO2 system blows off? You obviously have failure points everywhere, thats why you need to get quality stuff.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:38 AM   #11
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I think you are worrying too much. What if your ASA on/off blows off? OR what if the regulator on a bigger CO2 system blows off? You obviously have failure points everywhere, thats why you need to get quality stuff.
Perhaps!!

Just the needle valves and solenoid are so small and they are not made to hold that amount of pressure. The ASA valve is made to hold the pressure.

I realize something could happen and the pressure could come out of the tank. Thus I didn't want to get a tank bigger than 24oz. I will anchor it to something.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:54 AM   #12
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Default connected all the components

I just got my 24 Oz paintball cylinder filled up for $ 3.83 total from Sports Authority. I also rigged the setup like shown below. I used a barbed hose adapter after the Pneumatic valve instead of screwing the solenoid valve directly into it.

My solenoid valve is anyway currently setup with the barbed hose adapters on both ends with the Citric Acid system. This will make it easier for me to do take off the solenoid valve if I feel that I can run the system just 24/7 and also it will be less weight on the components hanging on to the ASA valve.

I will do a leak test in a bucket of water and then connect it to the solenoid valve.

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Old 05-21-2015, 10:02 AM   #13
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Looks good. Interested to see how long the bottle fill lasts.
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Hi folks,
1) I got the ASA ON/OFF Valve which has a gauge and a 1/8" NPT threaded hole.
2) Needle valve which handles upto 6000 PSI and has got 1/4"
So since NPT inches is not the same as actual inches what size tubing will you be using?
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:10 PM   #15
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So since NPT inches is not the same as actual inches what size tubing will you be using?
I am not sure I understood your question correctly but I will be using the standard airline tubing out from that barbed hose adapter pictured above.
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