Aquarium glass
Planted Tank Forums
Your Tanks Image Hosting *Tank Tracker * Plant Profiles Fish Profiles Planted Tank Guide Photo Gallery Articles

Go Back   The Planted Tank Forum > Specific Aspects of a Planted Tank > DIY


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-16-2014, 04:56 PM   #1
treyLcham
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bradenton, Florida
Posts: 269
Default

Aquarium glass


So I was just wondering the best way to put a tank together. Do u put the side peaces on top the bottom or do u put the side peaces against the bottom? I have only done one tank and I did mine on top but it cam out with a lot o airbubbles since I had to move it around to get all sides to a 90* angle and not tilted at all so I was just wondering if the other way is easyer?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
treyLcham is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-16-2014, 06:00 PM   #2
Enano
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Utah, USA
Posts: 14
Default

It is typically recommended that the base fit between the sides (how I built my small tank 12" cube and some google searches).
For glass aquariums I put it together (dry fit) and use duct tape to hold it together. I get it all square using more duct tape to secure it.
Once square I mask the seams (masking tape), run continuous beads of silicone along all the joints, then use a baby carrot that I've shaped to how I want the bead (slightly rounded) to push the silicone into and along all the joints.
After 5-10 minutes, once the silicone has tacked up a bit - I remove the masking tape as smoothly as possible leaving a nice sharp edge. If you like you can then use another shaped carrot to push the edges flat (make sure you don't disturb the inner part of the bead, we're just doing cosmetics now - I like the slight step so don't smooth it down).
Give it 72 hours to cure + until the vinegar smell fades then leak test and if all is good remove the duct tape. Acetone and alcohol easily remove the residue.
Ta-da!
This is just my methodology, you'll need to cover all your structural concerns of course in the planning.
Hope this helps.
Enano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 06:03 PM   #3
Enano
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Utah, USA
Posts: 14
Default

PS. The carrot is optional but is really nice in that the silicone doesn't stick to it and is easily manipulated + it's cheap.
Enano is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 06:38 PM   #4
Bushkill
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bushkill, Pa
Posts: 1,302
Default

Use blue painters' tape. I leaves no residue whatsoever, lifts off easier and leaves a smaller ridge than masking or duct tape. You should leave the ridge in place. If you feather the edges after pulling off the tape, the very thin edges will chip and tear easily the first time you scrape the glass and that creates small pockets where algae builds up but can't be removed easily.

Working with silicone is just messy. Buy a box of cheap silicone gloves. Your finger will be the most efficient tool you have unless you have true "sausage fingers", lol! In smoothing a seam do your best to do it in one continuous swipe.
__________________
Angelo

"Why can't my wife see all of this stuff as an investment?"
Bushkill is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 06:43 PM   #5
treyLcham
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bradenton, Florida
Posts: 269
Default

What silicone do you guys use for this? =he one I used seemed to dry out very fast and made it hard to remove the tape withoutroling the edge of the beed

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
treyLcham is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 08:09 PM   #7
Diana
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 8,299
Default

That is a SUPERB collection of videos!
Easy to understand, even though I do not speak a word of Japanese.

Note they are working in a very clean room, and everything they are using is absolutely clean.

Love those clamps!
Diana is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 09:42 PM   #8
Solcielo lawrencia
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (4/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,972
Default

Those 90 degree clamps are used in glass construction so I'm wondering if glass shower/bathroom builders could build a rimless tank on the cheap.
Solcielo lawrencia is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 11:07 PM   #9
treyLcham
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bradenton, Florida
Posts: 269
Default

i have asked my local glass place if they would build it for me but they said they didnt feel comfortable doing it, SO far i have made one 50g but i dont really like the dimensions of the tank with my driftwood inside it, so i think what im going to do is use the tank for a reptile and make a new tank. I was thinking of doing a 38x20x20inch. This would give me plenty of room to put more mid to back ground plants in with the driftwood and also biggers better haha. It would be about 65.8gallons so not to much and the good thing is that the stand i made was ment for a 38"wide by 20"d tank so then it wood fit in like a glove which would also be nice aesthetically nicer. I wouldnt have to get more lighting since my lights are 36" wide which idk do u guys think adding a inch to each side is really going to affect my lighting that bad?

Bump: also one more question, when u get glass cut do u have them sand the edges down or do a chamfer edge?
treyLcham is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 11:36 PM   #10
Solcielo lawrencia
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (4/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,972
Default

That extra 1" on each side probably won't make much of a difference in light.

You should get the edges polished for both aesthetic and safety reasons.
Solcielo lawrencia is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 11:39 PM   #11
Bushkill
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bushkill, Pa
Posts: 1,302
Default

You can also find those clamps in some of the woodworking catalogs; Woodcrafters, etc. Both glass and wood catalogs are equally overpriced, so shop them. Google miter clamps and I;m sure you'll have lost of possibilities.They really aren't that special. Spent hours shopping the Toyo thick glass cutting tool and everybody wanted $300 and over. Saw one at close to $500. Finally found it for $180. I was pleased!

treaLcham, for safety's sake you should have the edges seamed. A freshly cut piece of glass from a glass shop will have the most square edges possible. That also makes them lethal.

I should've noted that the only "unique aspect" of those clamps is the wooden spacers on the inside to make it stay proud of the joint so there would be access all the way to the top. The woodworker's miter clamp is easily modified to do the same.
__________________
Angelo

"Why can't my wife see all of this stuff as an investment?"

Last edited by Bushkill; 11-16-2014 at 11:55 PM.. Reason: clarification
Bushkill is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2014, 11:51 PM   #12
Bushkill
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bushkill, Pa
Posts: 1,302
Default

That IS a cool set of vids. Thanks for putting them up there. The Japanese goes over my head too, but three things stood out to me:

That's about the dimensions of a 50B, and he still had a second set of hands there to help him get the first two panels aligned. The moral: It takes more than two hands at some point.

All of that glass appeared to have light chamfers on the edges and VERY precisely cut to specific dimensions. The moral: A good glass shop and an accurate cut list are just critical.

Lastly, that dude really knows what he's doing with painter's tape!
__________________
Angelo

"Why can't my wife see all of this stuff as an investment?"
Bushkill is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2014, 12:17 AM   #13
treyLcham
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bradenton, Florida
Posts: 269
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushkill View Post
That IS a cool set of vids. Thanks for putting them up there. The Japanese goes over my head too, but three things stood out to me:

That's about the dimensions of a 50B, and he still had a second set of hands there to help him get the first two panels aligned. The moral: It takes more than two hands at some point.

All of that glass appeared to have light chamfers on the edges and VERY precisely cut to specific dimensions. The moral: A good glass shop and an accurate cut list are just critical.

Lastly, that dude really knows what he's doing with painter's tape!
Yea with out a doubt he is def a skilled worker when it comes to building these fine peaces! I am going to go to my local glass shop where they cut there glass and see what they can do

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushkill View Post
You can also find those clamps in some of the woodworking catalogs; Woodcrafters, etc. Both glass and wood catalogs are equally overpriced, so shop them. Google miter clamps and I;m sure you'll have lost of possibilities.They really aren't that special. Spent hours shopping the Toyo thick glass cutting tool and everybody wanted $300 and over. Saw one at close to $500. Finally found it for $180. I was pleased!

treaLcham, for safety's sake you should have the edges seamed. A freshly cut piece of glass from a glass shop will have the most square edges possible. That also makes them lethal.

I should've noted that the only "unique aspect" of those clamps is the wooden spacers on the inside to make it stay proud of the joint so there would be access all the way to the top. The woodworker's miter clamp is easily modified to do the same.
Yea i dont need to worry about getting a good glass cutter because i have a shop literally 5min away that cuts glass and sells it so i am set on that! The first time i bought from them i made the mistake of asking them to sand the edges but i was not specific enough on how much to sand off and they kinda over sanded it and made it very hard to put the tank together without getting air bubbles and what not. SO what you are telling me is that i need to get the edges chamfered and not sanded and also in the video i couldnt really tell but when he was using the pipe clamps did he tighten it all the way till the glass was touching each other again or did he leave a gap? These videos are by far the best way to do this and i will be investing in some nice clamps to do this for sure!!
treyLcham is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2014, 02:40 AM   #14
deeda
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 995
Default

I don't think you want the glass chamfered, you want the edges seamed. This knocks off the sharp edges.
__________________
Dee
__________________
Eheim Pimpette #270
Eheim Pro II 2028; Classics Series -2215, 2217, 2260, 2262; Pro 2229 Wet/Dry
deeda is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2014, 03:24 AM   #15
Bushkill
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bushkill, Pa
Posts: 1,302
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by deeda View Post
I don't think you want the glass chamfered, you want the edges seamed. This knocks off the sharp edges.
Yup!
__________________
Angelo

"Why can't my wife see all of this stuff as an investment?"
Bushkill is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright Planted Tank LLC 2012