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2.5 gallon long and narrow

9K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  Coastlife247 
#1 ·
So I am hoping this is my first real success with planted tanks, one that thrives and grows. The tank I found in some thrift store, it was covered with a stupid background and really ugly black frame that covered most of the tank. I stripped it all, and upon the purchase of a HM betta by my wife of all people the tank planning began : ) The lighting is a desk lamp with a 15w cfl indoor floodlight. I have never used an indoor floodlight but it had a built in reflector in the bulb so I thought why not try it. It has an aquafin 50w heater that's much to large and set to 82°. MGOPM substrate with a gravel cap. Occupants are 1 HM betta and 5-6 hitchhiker snails. Currently, I have planted bacopa, DHG, and a little bit of Anubis Nana. I think I may have some potential with this tank. Granted, its oddly narrow and I will not even ball my fist in this tank for fear of cracking the sides. I plan on finding some sort of small water movement device (ideas?)...and I don't really see filter in this tank. I'm grateful for any and all advice, tips and ideas. Thanks!



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#3 ·
That is so cool.

Why the need for current? I think even the smallest pump/powerhead is going to create and unbelievable amount of current in that tank and will stress out your Betta almost instantly. Bettas don't like current.

You can get one of those betta heat mats/pads made for fish bowls and place it under the gravel or on the back glass and hide it with plants.
 
#5 ·
I just assumed I needed some kind of water movement so the water wouldnt get stagnant. The less equipment I should have the better. I'd love some MTS but no pet store around here sells them, gotta find something that will dig into the substrate. How often should my water changes be?

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#6 ·
You can do small weekly water changes the first few month or so until you tank fully cycles then you can cut it back to once a month. Lucky for you, bettas have a labyrinth organ and don't need as much oxygenated water as most fish do. Water quality should still be maintained though.


Most of the set ups in this thread have zero water movement

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=363465
 
#9 ·
Google the "Nitrogen Cycle" and you'll get a good idea on how some are able to maintain tanks without filters. Key ingredient is plenty of plants.

Again, check out some of the tanks in the link I provided above. Quite a few of them are actually shrimp only bowls/tanks.

9.9 times out of 10, your betta will make a quick snack of anything that moves inside his tank...or at least attempt to. Especially shrimp.
 
#11 ·
A small sponge filter would be a great choice for a Betta and/or dwarf shrimp. And probably solve any issues with surface film buildup and everything that goes along with that.

One like this could easily be cut to size. You could even hide it under the substrate if you want to minimize the appearance in the tank: http://www.bigalspets.com/dual-action-foam-filter-clover-up-to-40-gal.html
 
#17 ·
Update:


Got a smaller heater that fits nicely in the corner. Not adjustable but its a steady 76°. Still haven't gotten another light but I was thinking about one of those Solar Flare LED's? (Opinions?). Also went to a not so local fish store and got a bunch of MTS. There are currently about 10 in here, hoping they will burrow down and get to getting on the substrate. Picked up some duckweed and frog bit. Didn't really put any duckweed in this tank because I'd read too much about it being a pest and was worried it would compete too much with my other plants. Kept the frog bit though...duckweeds in the 29 gal hope it doesn't get crazy.

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#24 ·
Wiki

What is it?

Bio-film (biofilm) is a thin film on the surface of aquarium water, caused by the build up of protein from organic waste material. It is the structure bacteria build to support themselves growing on the surface where they get access to oxygen and the material.


What does it look like?

It can be spotted by looking at the surface at an angle to a light source and you may see reflected an oil like rainbow effect. It can also be directly seen by breaking up the surface of the water with a finger or stick to make bubbles. If bubbles form and last for more than a few seconds then you've got a bio-film.


Is it dangerous?

In certain circumstances (high bioload) it can reduce the level of oxygen to the rest of the tank. It can also stop CO2 getting released from the water so CO2 levels rise and so may cause asphyxiation to the animals in the tank including the nitrifying bacteria in a filter.


Causes

It can be caused in a new aquarium where the gravel release their organic debris and it settles on the surface.
It can be caused by a male Betta, Paradise or Gourami fish when he constructs his bubble nest. He uses his own mucus to form the bubbles.
Tiny uneaten food particles or decaying plant may rise and gather at the surface.
Add too much bottled bacteria may cause this.
Unfiltered tanks or tanks with very little surface movement are more prone to this than well filtered tanks.

Removing it

Ensure an adequate water flow at the surface or provide aeration to break up the water surface. It will soon dissipate. In the immediate instance a fishnet can be used to take the film off the surface of the water.
 
#26 ·
What is the ambient temp in your room? I'm betting you don't even need the heater. Let the water with the plants cycle. And after a month or two it will be working like a charm.
If it's been up for three weeks it's probly ok to add shimp/snails. Just use a strip test to be sure.
If you see the betta starts acting wierd (laying on the bottom, losing color, etc) you can put him in a small bowl and change the water once a week. This will work as a quarantine tank.


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