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Tank seams

2K views 22 replies 3 participants last post by  Davileet 
#1 ·
#2 ·
You should get a few responses here but I, for one, would rebuild it. I only looked at the first couple and it was enough to lead me to think that the tank had been rebuilt once before and wasn't done very well. Plenty of threads here, on other forums, and Youtube to help you get through it. I normally try to steer folks away from it if the tank is under a 120G; the time and money invested in the process just doesn't pay unless you're in it for the project. A tank that size isn't cheap to replace and even tougher to find so the "payback" is there. Just be certain to read, read, and read some more if you've never done it or worked with silicone before. Other than what you can find in a ton of threads and videos, I can only add to make sure you have some able bodies around to help. Aligning those panels isn't a one-man job and neither is the tear-down process.
 
#3 ·
Thank you for your thoughts. The guy I purchased it from did replace the inner seals, but he told me that he had not rebuilt the tank. I think if I can successfully rebuild this thing, it will be worth the investment I have put into it. I hope that I can do a better job than that of the last person. I have been trying to do as much reading as possible. I have found a lot of people using only tape to hold the tank together, and that seems like it wouldn't be strong enough in my opinion. I am afraid to use clamps also because I do not want to press too much silicone out.
 
#4 ·
If you're going to actually rebuild it use the RTV silicone. It has better shear strength.
 
#6 ·
Use very short (1/2" or so) lengths of 4lb test fishing line to be embedded in the outer (the one with the bubbles) silicone bead (the concave silicone bead that you can feel is referred to as the outter bead). Place them horizontally to the short edge of the panes. Larger tanks have thin adhesive-backed clear plastic discs intended for that exact purpose. My bet is the last re-build removed them. You should re-think the clamps. You won't achieve uniform pressure with tape on panels that large. The fishing line will assure the proper thickness, prevent starving the inner bead of silicone, as well as uniformity of thickness. But tape won't cut it. You need woodworker's clamps of the proper length. Usually pipe clamps with plastic pads to cover the metal faces that contact the glass. Towels between the pipe itself and the glass will also help to prevent chips.
 
#7 ·
BTW, the RTV103 is a good choice. Check it for expiration dates. If the date isn't stamped on the tubes, go to the Momentive website with the lot number and you should be able to make sure you have a fresh batch.
 
#9 ·
Horizontal to the edge of the viewing pane. That will embed the string in the outer seam, with no fishing line sticking out. Yes, they stay in place. You shouldn't need more than three short sections per bead. They don't need to be any more than an inch long. Any longer and the curl of the fishing line won't let it stay straight in the seam. Remember, it's nothing more than a spacer that will remain embedded in the bead. One that won't compress easily if at all. A neat and helpful trick would be to warm the fishing line a bit and hang it with a weight on one end to let it cool in a perfectly straight line rather than the coiled / curled shapes you'll get right off the spool.

One thing I can't be 100% sure of here is the thickness of the bead. I've made smaller tanks and used 4 and 6 lb test. with no issues. I have no idea what the proper thickness of the outer beads on a 220G should be. That will determine the size fishing line to use.

I'll simply stress the weight of the panels and the need for help in the assembly process. It needs to be done once and only once. Those bubbles most likely occurred when the panels were adjusted and shifted while being placed in position.
 
#10 ·
I'd rethink the pipe clamps. Try a band clamp instead. I've done cabinets that large and it's not that unlikely you could drop one of the clamps. Even with help.

You can even make right angle corners out of wood and use spring clamps to hold them I use aluminum right angles for my cabinets and they work fine. they do have the actual corner cut so that any squeeze will not glue the corner to the project. A project this big requires thought and the use of the right jigs to make it go the way you envision. You don't have a lot of time and you don't want the silicone skinning before it's together. Get your buddies together and do a couple of dry runs. That lets you iron out the possible kinks. Better yet you get to find out where the hangups are before you waste a bunch of time and silicone.

Whatever clamps you use think about using 2 sided tape and adding a carpet piece to soften them.
 
#11 ·
I was thinking of using cabinet corner clamps along with the pipe clamps. I have not seen the band clamps before, I am unsure if my local building supply company carries them. I will have to think about the fishing line trick as I am still unsure of how I would do this exactly.
 
#12 ·
Band clamps are cloth bands with a ratchet to tighten. This one is a screw clamp. You can also use a strap and make a few corner blocks from wood. Once you finish the tank you'll find uses for them.
 

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#14 ·
I have not. But they don't pull wood panels inward. And wood glue is slippery until it skins.
 
#16 ·
Here is the question I would be asking myself. Can I really do this better than what I have right now? If I wasn't 1000000% sure I'd pass it on.I'd look at a glass company to do it. Realize if you can't get it better you have 210 gallons on the floor. Me? I am not that sure I could pull it off.
 
#17 ·
I could call around to the local glass people around, but the last one I called said that they do not assemble aquariums. I may call around a little bit tomorrow and see what I can find, but I also do not feel like paying several hundred dollars to have someone do work that is not guaranteed.

I am hoping and thinking that with a couple extra hands this may not be too terribly hard. I have been watching a lot of videos about assembling aquariums and it seems pretty cut and dry for the most part. The hardest part about this aquarium is going to be the shear weight of it.

I am also thinking that anything I do should be better than the previous seal that is bad and probably close to a decade old. As long as I am able to install the glass without bubbles in the seams it should be a good seal since I am using high quality silicone.
 
#18 ·
There's lots of clamps on the market now. Before you order those band clamps, make sure there's enough strapping in there to do a 360 around a 210G. I can't remember the dimensions of a 210G, but it's at least 16' around, maybe 18.

Like I suggested, the pipe clamps need plastic faces on them before you use them on something like glass. My bar clamps all came with them right out of the box and can be removed. I also suggested using lots of towels between the glass and the pipe. You or someone helping will most assuredly drop a clamp at some point.

Like I said, these panels have to be set in one attempt. Those bubbles are there because the previous attempt included shifting and adjusting while the silicone was setting.

And the whole subject of removing the old silicone hasn't even been touched here.
 
#19 ·
I have already purchased Acetone to remove the old silicone. I will get the glass completely clean and smooth before attempting to assemble this thing. We are going to attempt to flip this tank on its top tomorrow so that I can remove the plastic bottom brace and cut the panels apart.

Bushkill have you seen the injection method that a guy uses on youtube? Seems like it would be a good idea if it can be pulled off correctly.

Will the shear weight of the side panels be enough without having to clamp them to the bottom glass? I am guessing that I will just clamp the face glass to the sides? Is there a way to keep from pressing all the silicone out, or a good method to get the right amount?
 
#20 ·
I think you'll have a tough time getting acetone to remove cured silicone. Invest in a box of straight razor blades and be generous with using fresh ones. buy a few sheets of 420 grit sandpaper. Cut very small pieces and after you think you've removed all the silicone gently rub the sandpaper over only the area where the silicone was removed from. If you missed some it will show up as a light hazy spot and the paper will drag just a bit. Use the acetone as a final wipe-down.

I'd be interested in the "injection method" if you can point to a link or video.

A manual caulking gun will be very tough to work with, but not impossible. the large viewing panes will need about 10 feet of caulk applied in a straight line. A manual gun will test the steadiness of your hands under stress. Ryobi makes a cordless caulking gun. It's the only one I know of, but there may be others. One of the best tool investments I've ever made. Pneumatic caulking guns will prove tough to find and very pricey.

The fishing line segments embedded in the silicone bead are intended to keep the bead at the desired thickness even under pressure. The weight of the viewing panels should be most sufficient and clamping vertically should be sufficient in this case in my mind.
 
#21 ·
Here is the video of the direct injection. The problem I see with it is the caulking hold spots that he used to keep the tank in place to install the remaining caulking. Other than that it seems that this would be ideal for a larger tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkDdQHB4CMs

You are probably right about the caulking gun. It will be hard to caulk a 7 foot span without getting hand fatigue. I just hope to make a thick enough bead to take care of it the first time around. I am also worried about getting bubbles in the seal worse than what I am replacing.

If I understand you right, the fishing line goes along the seal from top to bottom? Should fishing line be used in every seal? I feel like this would compromise the seal.
 
#22 ·
The fishing line, or any sort of inert plastic spacer you can fashion, should be used in each of the outer silicone beads. It will assure uniformity of thickness.

No, it's not a small project you're undertaking.

One additional point to consider is space. You'll need a pretty large working area to tear down and reassemble a 210G.
 
#23 ·
Yeah, I was thinking of tearing the tank down in the yard. Once the panels are taken apart I should be able to handle each pane on my own until it comes to assembly time. I have found another way to put the tank together that I believe I will do.

I will set the glass in place with spacers on the bottom, and for the sides I will clamp a pvc pipe on the inside of the tank that allows me 1/16" space in between each pane. Pretty ingenious actually. This way it eliminates the issue of creating a undisturbed silicone bead like in the video. I would like to use this same method for the bottom glass, but I am not sure about the spacers. I just hate the thought of having an object besides silicone between glass panes.
 
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