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DIY Bridgelux Vero 18 LED build

30K views 66 replies 10 participants last post by  gus6464 
#1 · (Edited)
So a new day, a new LED fixture build. As some of you might remember, a couple of months ago I did a a full spectrum LED cannon build consisting of 9 LEDs but I was never happy with the way it looked and wanted something cleaner.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=388441

This time around I am setting up my CADlights low-iron rimless tank which has the same dimensions as the ADA 90-P. For this tank I wanted to stay with LEDs but wanted something very simple. 6 months ago this would not have been possible but with the arrival of the Bridgelux Vero series things are a lot different.

The Bridgelux Vero series is a new multichip array which is more efficient than the BXRA ES series and offers way more power with increased CRI. CRI is important because it's the reason we go multi-colored LEDs in the first place. Most common stuff today (Rebel ES, Cree XP-G, XT-E, XM-L etc.), all suffer from low CRI (70's) in the cool white range (5500-6500K CCT). This means that all these white LED's suffer from a lack of red and green in their spectra which is why we augment with colored LEDs. The new Vero series is able to put out a rated minimum of 90 CRI in a cool white (5600K CCT) LED with the Vero 18 and 28. This means that we can get a lot closer to a full spectrum LED with a single chip.

This is the data sheet for the Vero 18 I will be using BXRC-56G4000-F-04.
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content...x-Vero-18-LED-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.05.23.pdf

As you can see this particular LED can take up to 2A and deliver a whopping 6000 lumens for a very low price of $15 from digikey. I know some people prefer a bluer light on their tanks so if that's the case this is not the LED for you. Also Bridgelux rates the CRI on their chips as minimum and are known to measure higher in real world use. Also you know these emitters are built to last when Bridgelux warranties all Vero series for 10 years.

Another awesome thing about these chips is that they are solderless ready and just require a Molex Pico-EZMate connector which can be purchased here:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0688014227/WM9593-ND/3880993

Parts I will be using:

3x Bridgelux Vero 18 5600K 90CRI bin
3x Bridgelux Vero 18 2700K 97CRI bin
6x Molex Pico EZMate connectors
HeatsinkUSA 32"x5" heatsink
4x Rosewill 120mm fans
6x Ledil Brooke-W 50deg reflectors
3x Meanwell LDD-1000H drivers
3x custom made 1600ma LDD type drivers from O2Surplus
Typhon controller with 8-up LDD board made by O2Surplus
48v 7.2A power supply
 
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#2 ·
Hey Gus!

You're gonna love those Vero 18's. They're stupid bright. I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225 and couldn't be happier with their performance. I'm driving (6) 5600K 90 CRI's at 700ma and (6) 2700K 97CRI's at 300ma. Be ready to dim yours down quite a bit as they're much brighter than you'd expect at 1000ma. I'm Looking forward to seeing your build and the resulting plant growth. Let me know how you like the Ledil reflectors and please provide me with a link to them? I've been trying to decide which ones to purchase but without seeing them in actual use, I'm left a bit confused as to which Ledil part # to choose.
 
#3 ·
Hey Gus!

You're gonna love those Vero 18's. They're stupid bright. I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225 and couldn't be happier with their performance. I'm driving (6) 5600K 90 CRI's at 700ma and (6) 2700K 97CRI's at 300ma. Be ready to dim yours down quite a bit as they're much brighter than you'd expect at 1000ma. I'm Looking forward to seeing your build and the resulting plant growth. Let me know how you like the Ledil reflectors and please provide me with a link to them? I've been trying to decide which ones to purchase but without seeing them in actual use, I'm left a bit confused as to which Ledil part # to choose.
Hey I didn't know you had switched to Vero's. You have any pics of your tank with the current lights?

As far as optics the Vero specific ones are virtually nonexistant. I finally gave up the search and just bought Ledil Brooke-W's made for BXRA ES. The Vero 18 LED (SLES) diameter is less than 1mm smaller than the BXRA ES rectangle array so should work. I am just going to grind off the little feet of the Brooke-W and see how that goes until Vero 18 specific Ledil's become more widely available.

I highly doubt I will be running them over 500ma for the PAR I want. I am hanging high because I want to plant a couple riparium plants as well on one side of the tank.
 
#4 ·
The Bridgelux Vero series is a new multichip array which is more efficient than the BXRA ES series and offers way more power with increased CRI. CRI is important because it's the reason we go multi-colored LEDs in the first place.
That doesn't really change (much) w/ the CRI of the Vero's


The "decor" look interesting though..
 
#9 ·
Gus- I made a mistake. My "cool white" Vero 18's are the 5000K 70 CRI models, not the 5600K 90 CRI bad boys. IIRC my idea was to use a "cool white" Vero with the highest lumen value available for shear PAR power and then use the lower power 2700K 97 CRI "Decor" Vero to add back some of the lost CRI. Now that I've had some time to play with my new camera, I'll get you some tank shots that should give you an idea of how these leds look in reality. LOL- I'm gonna warn Jeff now, as my "white balance" may be a little off.:eek5:
 
#10 · (Edited)
LOL- I'm gonna warn Jeff now, as my "white balance" may be a little off.:eek5:
noooooooooooooo not florescent WB!!!!!

Maybe you haven't noticed but I'm a color and upside down photo cop......... ;)

and some think I'm chart crazy......... ;)
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/345478-an-updated-led-guide-v10/

Bridgelux links are broken.. at least to direct spec sheet..


Question for you..

WHY do they not show the spectrum for the 90CRI's.. ??? Too close to the "Decor's" ???
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content...x-Vero-18-LED-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.05.23.pdf
 
#13 ·
Because I have already gone that route before and finding a CCT I was happy with never happened. Also these Vero are going to be mounted high at almost 3ft above the tank. It would take way more than a few mixed 3W to penetrate like a Vero 18 at that height. Also a Vero 18 2700K Decor with the 5600K will give me a spectrum that can easily match a multi-color LED setup.
 
#15 ·
Everything is doable with reflectors. I measured the light angles with a goniometer which is why I am going with a 50deg reflector. There will be very little light spill. I am hanging high because I am doing a couple riparium plants as well.

You can also do no optics and just build your light fixture with a light spill guard. That can be done by placing the emitter higher in relevance to the bottom of the fixture.
 
#16 ·
Any light that's strong enough to grow plants 3' above the water is bright. Spillage at the top is just part of the equation, the light shining out of the tank itself is bright.

I'm neither opinionating nor putting down what you are doing because everybody has their own goals and/or usages. I wasn't familiar with the Vero so I meandered over here for a quick see.

But as soon as you said 36" above the tank I knew there were no Vero's in my future.

Lots of luck on your build though, sounds like you got it going good

PS: these Vero's must be selling like hotcakes in Colorado :icon_mrgr
 
#17 ·
Since Vero optics are impossible to find right now you can at least use BXRA ES optics on the Vero 18 with perfect fit.

This is a Ledil Brooke-W with the little feet carefully grinded off


Perfect fit


I will post PAR data for one of these with and without reflector later tonight.
 
#18 ·
I took a preliminary PAR reading of one Vero 18 with the Brooke-W and at 1000ma and 2ft high I got 165 PAR. This was done open air. For reference my old 9x Rebel ES cannon with 6x 6500K, 1x cool blue, 1x red, and 1x hyper violet got 150 PAR at that same distance in the tank with 60deg optics. At 1000ma the Vero 18 is only running at 33% power as it can go up to 3000ma. My goal is 60 PAR @ 3ft from substrate.

I need to find a driver like the LDD that can do more than 1A.
 
#19 · (Edited)
#25 ·
I am still waiting on a couple of things:

32" heatsink
3x Vero 18 Decors with Ledil Brooke W reflectors
1600ma LDD drivers from O2Surplus
8up LDD board from O2Surplus
120mm fans

I should have everything in by Thursday so I hope to have it finished by next week.
 
#24 ·
Make that two lurkers. A quick Google showed me that Bridgelux has a 10 & 13 which will be better for me since I'm building a hood and not a pendant. If I use Vero's, I'll still augment with color but it would be hard to ignore the Vero's as a replacement for my bulk whites if nothing else, serious product for sure..

Enough about my lights, I don't want to tread on your thread just letting you know you perked my curiosity ;-)
 
#26 ·
Tons of goodies came in today.

8up LDD from O2Surplus with 3 of his custom drivers which will power the 5600K and 3 regular Meanwell LDD-1000 for the 2700K.


Also got this sweet little board from him which allows you to use manual pot dimming with the Meanwell's. You just add your own 10K potentiometers.


All 6 LED's with a dime for size reference. 2700K Decor on bottom row.


This is a Vero with the optional molex cable for solderless installation. The cable is quite cheap at $1.30.


Cheap 4-pack of fans from newegg which I got for $10. Tested them and they are pretty much silent.


Now I just need for the heatsink to get here so I can measure the enclosure.
 
#28 ·
So I put together the heatsink and did a test run and the light has completely blown away my expectations. Here are a couple of pictures of the light on my old tank which is getting replaced by the CADLights 50g.







So in this picture the light is 14" from the top of the tank which is 18" high so light is basically 30" from the substrate. PAR is uniform left and right and front to back which completely surprised me. Then again I measured all the angles in which the reflectors hit.

This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color.

PAR
Substrate - 100-110
Top - 250-260
105 Watts

I will do much more thorough measurements once my new tank is in place.
 
#29 ·
So I put together the heatsink and did a test run and the light has completely blown away my expectations. Here are a couple of pictures of the light on my old tank which is getting replaced by the CADLights 50g.







So in this picture the light is 14" from the top of the tank which is 18" high so light is basically 30" from the substrate. PAR is uniform left and right and front to back which completely surprised me. Then again I measured all the angles in which the reflectors hit.

This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color.

PAR
Substrate - 100-110
Top - 250-260
105 Watts

I will do much more thorough measurements once my new tank is in place.
nice coverage.. amazing you can see the color tone difference in the lights on the reflectors..

Your "watts" are caculated at the above running mA or just estimate?
 
#38 ·
Sorry I was just getting my head around the ..
more amp more gross light but lower watt efficiency..
and non-linearity of V response..
But all in all non-linearity can be ignored..




nonlinearity of V is "smoothed" by linearity in ma output..and a linear luminous flux.

Friday babble session....
 
#39 ·
And here it is. Just have to paint the box but monte carlo came in early so had to plant. Doing dry start right now for a week to get good root structure and light is super low on the tank. I am pushing 1040ma on the 5600K and 600ma on the 2700K. Monte carlo is getting ~250 PAR right now. In <2 days I already got runners taking off. I really like the 2700K Decors. I have them come on an hour early than the 5600K and the color looks very much like dawn yellow. Once I fill I think I'm going to have the 2700K ramp up 2 hours early before the 5600K.

 
#41 ·
So I have been thinking about the Photosynthetic Action Spectrum chart and how the largest absorption spike is in the 400-425nm range. Until recently the only common LED you could get in this range were in the 415 and 420nm range. I also noticed that the majority of the people with great looking tanks that are running T5HO have bulbs that put out a purple/pink hue. I have been trying to match this chart as close as possible with as little LEDs as possible.



This is the spectrum I currently have with my 2 Bridgelux. Take the orange Decor and blue line.


Then I found this LED:
http://www.rapidled.com/total-spectrum-violet-uv-led/

That is a 4-core LED that runs at 13.5V and contains 2 leds that cover 400-410nm and 2 that cover 410-420nm. Rapidled currently has a 4th of July coupon going so for $60 shipped I got 3 with 60deg optics. Needless to say I am very anxious to see how this combination of 3 LEDs look in my tank.
 
#43 ·
Thanks! I actually filled the tank 2 days ago. I raised the light back to its original 18" from top of tank and turned down the power of the LED's. Now I am running 333ma on the 2700K and 1040ma on the 5600K. The substrate is getting ~110 PAR. Then my cheap CO2 regulator decided to crap out on me and it's now outputting 1bps no matter how open the needle valve is. I found a Victor dual stage regulator on ebay for a good price so will be putting together a nice regulator this week.
 
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