Yes 2, One for ech "driver" which is really a constant voltage power supply.
Yes after the power supply,
This is a dimmer hacked into a Finnex (runs on the same principal of constant voltage) after the power supply
Just make sure you maintain polarity.. (plus to plus)
Theoretically I suppose you could use one but it would need to be scaled up to the total Watt output of the 2 power supplies..keeping the power supplies in parallel but why take the chance.
It is harder than it seems..
Something about current sharing imbalance..
well got the fixture in to day its not a bad fixture for 200 bucks. It was sold as a scratch and den't unit.I had to look hard for the couple of the scratches that where on it. The fans that are in the led drivers are a little on the loud side that mite be a problem some people. it came with 4 fans on top that don't sound to bad and they do there job. I don't no if I like snake eye lens. they seem to sacrifice depth penetration for a better light mixing. I figurd with 112 3w led the substrate would be a lot brighter than it is.all in all I'm satisfied.
the light seems to be working just fine. I would like to add some different colors to the light to get a better looking spectrum. I'm not a big fan of all 65k leds. I just don't no how many of what to get a better look. The light has 4 rows with 112 3w leds. any help would be grate.
The unfortunate thing is there is a power mismatch.. Beamswork (15V assumed) strips 12V (or 24v). There are work arounds "if" the Beamswork power supplies have "spare amps"
60 LED/3ft @ .5W = 30W per row..2.5A
One of the better ratios is 3:1 6500k/3500k
You do have to stick to V(f) requirements.. Most of those "Bridgelux" types are 3.x volts. Makes adding some "colors" a bit problematic.
Sticking w/ warm white "egg" LED's is fine.. Will add red.
You will over drive reds unless you change the resistor or add one to it, not recommended
As a check, you can lift a tab from one of the diodes off the circuit board , put a VOM set to amps in series, and check the current to a group of 4 ..
opp's I did make a minor assumption.. Make sure >3V and around 700mA.. Avoids unnecessary surprises..
Had one person who bought some reds off free bay listed as 700mA . They used a 700mA constant current driver and kept blowing reds.. Turned out they were 350mA red.. at 3W...
Also be careful removing the diodes.. some "lots" are just soldered on the ears and thermal paste on the bottom.. Some, apparently, are on a bit tougher.
I don't "think" the center is soldered but it may be a tougher thermal paste/glue than others..
I was looking at my light and I realize I can run 3 rows of light instead of just 2 or all 4 rows at a time. so it will be simpler to add the led strips insded of changing individual leds. I was looking at the 5630 strips when I can get 7020 for not much more. are the 7020 that much brighter than the 5630? and will they last without over heating faster?
They look just to be a different form factor. Lumens and watts are equiv.
Unless the # of diodes per meter is different, I'm not seeing any differences AFAICT.
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