PLEASE READ: If you would like me to re-post pictures to any photos that were deleted in the posts below, just let me know and I will re-post those photos. "Ditto" is used in 'reason for editing' box for photos deleted by photobucket. Photobucket really screwed up a lot of websites by eliminating 3rd party hosting. Still have plenty of photos to share, and will post if there is any interest.
I've been growing Tillandsia indoors for many years under artificial lighting enclosures (coined them with the word "Tillarium") to provide optimum growing conditions for these plants. Many of the species that I have been growing are 'decades' old. Some have been grown from seed, but most are offsets that continue to reproduce through the generations.
A few blooms from my Tillariums
Tillandsia ionantha 'rosita' lg. form (mother plant)
Took a few FTS of some set-ups... still toasted from daylight savings time combined with the Duke & Carolina game last night. The enclosures & aquariums that I use (I coined 'em' with the word tillarium: an enclosure for Tillandsia to provide controlled growing conditions) could be considered closed top somewhat. I have no glass covering the tops of most set-ups (some set-ups do have a closed top with an open front). Light fixtures pretty much enclose the tops (although air can enter through the small open gaps).
Amygirl11, Macrophyte ~ appreciate the kind words.
Zebrina is one of my favorite ionanthas. My original mother plant produced four pups, and one of his/her pups produced six pups. Included a picture of the pup producing pups. The only drawback with (almost all) T. ionantha is that their blooms are very short lived. That's good for producing more pups, but bad if you are trying to cross pollinate (unless you have many ionanthas flowering at the same time).
Amazing, do you just spray the plants or you have to soak them in water as I read online? I have few Tillandsias in a vivarium that I just spray once in a while.
..Thanks, sarahspins & shrimpo! Glad the post has sparked an interest.
All my indoor Tillies get a water soak once a week, never bother with misting. The exception to this: some very small seedlings that were recently germinated ~ they get an additional water dips twice a week, along with the weekly soak (will discontinue the extra soaks once the seedlings gain some size). I also add a diy fertilizer to my soak water with macros being heavier on the potassium side.
*NOTE:What works for one person may not work for you. There are many opinions (myths) as to what type of water to use with Tillandsia (e.g., rainwater, distilled, spring, R/O, etc.) along with copper being a "no-no". I use only dechlorinated 'Tapwater' (have been doing so for 20 years with no problems). I also use copper in my fertilizer mix, along with any copper that leaches through the water piping ~ again with no problems. Use common sense; large concentrations of heavy metals, and/or other chemicals, will kill Tillandsia (not to mention a vast array of other flora & fauna)!
Relative humidity ranges anywhere from 10-38% when lights are on, and bounces up to about 30-50% at night (I think this is due to the plants expelling water vapor during the night due to C.A.M respiration, along with the lights being off). I'm sure they don't get much moisture from the air in my set-ups. Have been very successful with the religious weekly water soaks for my set-up applications.
That's about it... as far as maintenance goes. Might have to trim a dead leaf (which is seldom), along with dividing/separating pups once in awhile.
Seedlings (you can see them attached ~ near the bottom ~ of this grey T. stricta.
Very nice setup! I keep killing mine. From reading your thread, it seems like I never have enough air movement to dry them back out after their soaking. How do you 'soak' all your plants? Do you actually take all of them out of your display, soak, and replace them? Sounds very dedicating.
All my indoor Tillies get a 4-hour soak once a week, never bother with misting. The exception to this: some very small seedlings that were recently germinated ~ they get an additional 1-hour soak twice a week, along with the weekly soak (will discontinue the extra soaks once the seedlings gain some size). I also add a diy fertilizer to my soak water. Macros are heavier on the potassium side.
Ionanthas are fairly easy Tillies... provide them good light and give them some time... nice red blushes with contrasting flowers. They are prolific puppers, so you should always be able to keep a strain going (with plenty of extras).
Hydrophyte, HX67, & Sajacobs - thanks for the gracious words.
HX67: nice! I've always been fond of Brachycaulos (along with their hybrids and cultivars). This species has a beautiful rosette form. Definitely a spectacular Tilly when coming into bloom, especially when their leafs take on a bright red blush (the entire plant seems to glow).
LATE NOTE: the scientific name of Brachycaulos multiflora (this name was used in the trade for many years) has been changed to Tillandsia velutina.
HX67: nice! I've always been fond of Branchycaulos (along with their hybrids and cultivars). This species has a beautiful rosette form. Definitely a spectacular Tilly when coming into bloom, especially when their leafs take on a bright red blush (the entire plant seems to glow).
Very cool! I've seen epiphytes like those at various plant nurseries and have always wondered what the fascination was. Now that I've seen yours blooming, I know! Thanks for sharing.
Meowschwitz, I'm not really sure (I keep my indoor Tillandsia in low humidity set-ups). Problems can arise with keeping Tillandsia in high humidity conditions: the plants don't dry out as quickly after becoming wet (a much better possibility of rot and respiration problems). I'm not saying it cannot be done(never say never), especially within an enclosure that provides good air circulation. I've been told that some species can handle higher humidity better than others (e.g., T. butzii, T. cyanea, T. flabellata, T. bulbosa, T. brachycaulos, T. velutina). I have learned it is 'very good' for Tillandsia to have a chance of drying after watering (and/or not staying constantly wet).
T. brachycaulos, 2 different forms (maybe a good candidate with high humidity)
T. bulbosa, 2 different forms (another possible high humidity candidate)
Thanks, tippeecanoe. Their blooms are really enjoyable to view, and most are very vivid. The only drawback is most blooms are very short lived. The 'plus-side' is that most Tillandsia reproduce fairly easy after blooming (via off-sets and/or seed). This allows another cycle of blooming from the pups-offsets, and/or seedlings... which has the potential to keep the cycle going on and on. My personal fascination with Tillandsia comes from the diverse textures/shapes of the plants (along with the different shades of greens, silvers and whites), but even better: the ease of care (and maintenance) for the plants.
WOW, absolutely incredible. Your set ups are so perfect as well!
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