The Planted Tank Forum banner

Pressurized CO2...Just thought I'd share.

346K views 413 replies 138 participants last post by  rajdude 
#1 · (Edited)
So, there have been a lot of threads (it seems) lately regarding pressurized CO2. Hopefully, this primer will help alleviate any fears that people have when starting to delve into CO2 as it can be quite intimidating at first. In addition, hopefully this primer will answer some of the most commonly asked questions regarding pressurized CO2.

As this thread will be discussing how to set up a pressurized CO2 system, advantages/disadvantages of using a pressurized setup versus a DIY (yeast) CO2 system will not be discussed in this primer. For more information, please take a look here:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-general-planted-tank-discussion/107303-newbie-setup.html#5

On to pressurized CO2!

First, when people refer to pressurized CO2, we often read that we will need a "regulator" or a "regulator build." What does this mean exactly? This term is thrown around quite loosely in the aquarium hobby, but a pressurized CO2 system consists of more than just a regulator.

Here are the essential components you will need:

1) A CO2 cylinder
CO2 cylinders come in various sizes. They are often used in paintball guns (usually sold as 20 oz cans). They also come in 2.5, 5, 10 and 20 lb sizes (larger sizes such as 50 lb tanks do exist, but they are quite large and bulky, and are not commonly sold outside of specialty applications).

CO2 tanks come with a fitting known as a CGA320 fitting, which is standard in North America. Europe and Asia use different industrial standards. Paintball tanks, however, do not come with this fitting, and come with a pin depression type valve. More on this will follow below.

Many people believe that getting a small, paintball CO2 tank is "cheaper", however, this is not usually the case. Regulators (see below) often come with CGA320 fittings (or can be adapted to such). However, as paintball tanks do not contain this CGA320 fitting, normal regulators cannot be used, and you must purchase either a special regulator with the required fitting, or look around for a paintball tank to CGA320 adapter (often, quite difficult to find). In addition, refill costs for CO2 tanks are generally not much different. The refill cost for (say) a 5 lb tank and 10 lb tank may only be a few dollars different. For example, I can get my 10 lb tank refilled for $17.50, while a 20 oz paintball tank may cost $5 to refill. This means that the cost per pound of gas is more for a smaller tank. In addition, the larger the CO2 tank, the longer you can go without refilling the tank, etc. It can be quite a hassle to drive out and refill the tank, depending on where you live. The general piece of advice is to get the largest tank that you can afford and/or is feasible for the space that you have.
 
See less See more
#104 ·
Question regarding bubble counters. Are they really required? From what I have read about the right CO2 levels is to turn it up slowly until your fish start showing symptoms then dail it down to where they are normal. I understand a bubble counter will help you figure out how much CO2 goes in the tank but wouldn't having a drop checker and checking the health of your fish be enough?
 
#105 ·
A bubble counter is not absolutely required. You can turn your CO2 slowly up until your fish start showing symptoms, and then dial it back down. Using this method takes some time, and can be stressful for more delicate species.

A drop checker takes some time to equilibrate to the CO2 levels within the water.

A bubble counter serves as an instant check to see how fast you are injecting CO2 into the aquarium.
 
#110 ·
Hi Anthony,

Google brought me to this thread. Thank you so much for the writeup!

I'm from the saltwater world, and I use CO2 for my calcium reactor. When I started out, I (naively) bought a setup with a Milwaukee MA957 CO2 regulator and a SMS122 pH controller. I don't remember the last time the setup worked properly over the last 5years.

But I'm reinvigorated, and I actually modified my calcium reactor to make it work better. My problem is the flow of CO2.

For one thing I'm pretty sure the low pressure gauage is busted, the needle never moves. But I've read that it doesnt matter?

Basically I plug the regulator into the wall and set the bubbles to 1bpm. It works fine. So then I plug it into my pH Controller. It continues to output 1bpm into my reactor. Once the pH in the reactor reaches 6.5, the controller shuts off the solenoid and the bubbles stop flowing. Then when the pH is higher than 6.5, the controller turns on the solenoid and the bubbles continue to flow around 1bpm. This goes on for about a day.

The next day when I check, when the controller turns on the solenoid, the bubbles are STREAMING out of the regulator! So much so that the excess CO2 is blasted back out of the 'intake' tubing of my reactor and into the tank (it's literally like if you take a straw and blow as hard as you can into a glass of water).

What is the reason behind this? It's as if pressure builds up while the solenoid is off, and when it's back on, the pressure releases and the CO2 spews out.

I'd hate to just throw this setup out and have to start new. Do you have any troubleshooting tips for me?

Thanks in advance.
Gary
 
#111 ·
For one thing I'm pretty sure the low pressure gauage is busted, the needle never moves. But I've read that it doesnt matter?
This is correct, even if the low pressure gauge is not working, your regulator will still function. It just means you will no longer be able to determine what your delivery pressure is set at.

Basically I plug the regulator into the wall and set the bubbles to 1bpm.
To be precise, you are plugging the solenoid into the socket, but go on... :)

It works fine. So then I plug it into my pH Controller. It continues to output 1bpm into my reactor. Once the pH in the reactor reaches 6.5, the controller shuts off the solenoid and the bubbles stop flowing. Then when the pH is higher than 6.5, the controller turns on the solenoid and the bubbles continue to flow around 1bpm. This goes on for about a day.
All is fine so far, though, I assume you meant 1 bubble per second (bps), and not bubble per minute (bpm).

The next day when I check, when the controller turns on the solenoid, the bubbles are STREAMING out of the regulator! So much so that the excess CO2 is blasted back out of the 'intake' tubing of my reactor and into the tank (it's literally like if you take a straw and blow as hard as you can into a glass of water).

What is the reason behind this? It's as if pressure builds up while the solenoid is off, and when it's back on, the pressure releases and the CO2 spews out.

I'd hate to just throw this setup out and have to start new. Do you have any troubleshooting tips for me?
Your reasoning is spot on; this occurrence also occurs with many other regulators, but perhaps not with the same violence. Ideally, the streaming CO2 should calm down after a few minutes, after the pressure equalizes again.

It may be that your delivery pressure is set a bit high; try dialing back the delivery pressure (unfortunately, without the low pressure gauge, there is no way to tell how far you are dialing it back) and adjust from there.
 
#112 ·
adapter for paintball regulator to attach to cga320 tank

i just bought a 7# CO2 tank for homebrewing and I want to use it for pressurized co2 too. problem is my regulator and solenoid is set up to go on a paintball canister...is there an adapter available to make the hookup from my new 7# 320 connection tank to the paintball regulator?
 
#113 ·
i just bought a 7# CO2 tank for homebrewing and I want to use it for pressurized co2 too. problem is my regulator and solenoid is set up to go on a paintball canister...is there an adapter available to make the hookup from my new 7# 320 connection tank to the paintball regulator?
Yes, all you need is a CGA320 nipple. The connection that goes from your regulator to the paintball cylinder should be removable.
 
#118 ·
Well Iv ordered all my substrate and lighting but the pre built "semi-automatic" co2 systems from drs F+S is sold out till November so I'll be researching and probably beginning to purchase the parts to construct my co2 system. I guess a reactor is going to be my main confusion. I think I have a pretty good understanding of everything else involved. A ph controller is probably going to be out of my price range but my fish aren't super sensitive at all lol. Thanks again for all the info!! Best co2 thread around
 
#120 ·
How about this regulator solenoid needle valve setup for $125 seems legit
http://aquatek-california.com/co2-regulator-solenoid/#r-76-1
I figured if it's a quality product why not take out a few birds with one stone and avoid the multi shipment situation. Any thoughts? I researched a few other separate parts as well but easy and "all in one" is always nice. As far as a reactor goes..Is a smaller pump with a "reactor" chamber good enough like this one?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3747+15524&pcatid=15524
So besides a check valve and some tubing and obviously a cylinder from somewhere local are these two components worth while?? Can't wait to pack my tank with plants!!
 
#121 ·
bump this for one its a great thread more people should read it so they arent so intimidated by pressurized co2. and because id like to know if anyone has had any experience with Aquatek-California? and their ""all in one" regulator setup that includes a "cool to touch" solenoid, needle valve, and a duel gauge regulator? if its quality pieces id guess the end result would be quality also. idk ill probably start my co2 setup sometime next week and i just want some feedback about the company! thanks again guys!
 
#124 ·
I just found this thread and just want to say a big thank you to Darkblade48. I have a 55g community that I plan on putting a pressurized Co2 system on after Christmas. (Getting the hubby to get me a Milwaukee MA957 for Christmas lol). I've been trying to find out as much information as I can beforehand so I know how to set it up and this has been so very informative.

I have now worked out I need a kegerator type Co2 tank that will work with the Milwaukee. I only have some easy low light plants in my tank right now, but plan on getting a few medium light ones once its set up.

I have a little confusion as to what size Co2 tank to get, and what is a good bps to have for my 55. Just say I get a 10g co2 tank, and set it for maybe 3 bps, how long would that tank last before I need to refill it? My husband has concerns that I will be needing to refill it every month -_- lol.

Also Darkblade48, you should post (if you havent already) a YouTube video on setting up a pressurized Co2 system. That would be extremely helpful too in seeing it put together right from the getgo.

So I would appreciate help with my question. I'm worried I might mess up. I plan on buying from Ebay a drop checker and I already have one of those little glass ceramic diffusers to use.
 
#125 ·
I just found this thread and just want to say a big thank you to Darkblade48. I have a 55g community that I plan on putting a pressurized Co2 system on after Christmas. (Getting the hubby to get me a Milwaukee MA957 for Christmas lol). I've been trying to find out as much information as I can beforehand so I know how to set it up and this has been so very informative.
I haven't been able to check PlantedTank for quite a bit (been busy with life), but I'm glad that my article was helpful.

I have a little confusion as to what size Co2 tank to get, and what is a good bps to have for my 55. Just say I get a 10g co2 tank, and set it for maybe 3 bps, how long would that tank last before I need to refill it? My husband has concerns that I will be needing to refill it every month -_- lol.
The larger the CO2 cylinder, the better. You will need to refill it less, and the actual refill cost for (say) a 5 pound and 10 pound cylinder is usually insignificant.

Of course, there is always the issue with space, etc.

A 10 g(ram?) CO2 canister will not last long on a 55 gallon aquarium. Perhaps 2-3 weeks at most?

If you are speaking about a 10 pound CO2 cylinder, I would hazard at least half a year - a year, depending on whether or not you have any leaks, how long you keep it on for, etc.

Also Darkblade48, you should post (if you havent already) a YouTube video on setting up a pressurized Co2 system. That would be extremely helpful too in seeing it put together right from the getgo.
Unfortunately, I do not have the necessary photographic equipment (nor the skills) to take good videos.
 
#126 ·
It might be an issue of where this thread is posted, but I cannot seem to update the information in my previous posts.

Perhaps a moderator can shed some light? I just wanted to update some of the information (part numbers, pricing, etc) in my earlier posts as more information has come to light :)
 
#129 ·
Thanks for the great write up, but i'm curious on what it is you'll be updating exactly. I've put together a list of parts to look for, but something tells me that I should wait for your update... :wink:

For the time being, would you mind if you can update as a reply? :redface:

Thanks again for the valuable write up Darkblade!
 
#130 ·
Oh, it's not a major update at all; I just wanted to add a few part numbers that people have discovered recently (such as Burkert 6011A, Burkert 2822 solenoids, etc).

There are some prices I want to update as well.
 
#133 ·
The correct nomenclature for carbon dioxide is c, and o (alphabet o, not numerical 0), both capitalized and a subscript 2.

However, I don't believe the forums can print subscripts, so CO2 is the way I denote it.
 
#134 ·
thanks FINALLY i get it.. now if i could just 'have it all' and make it small and pretty!
..
I know, it's a girl thing...
 
#135 ·
Not at all, not at all.

There are times when a small and compact CO2 system are nice to have. For situations such as those, you can use paintball canisters and smaller paintball adapted regulators.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top