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Canister filter question!

10K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  brainwavepc.com 
#1 ·
Hey guys. I dont have much experience with canister filters, but I do know that my current Jebao 818 belongs in the garbage instead of filtering my 55 gallon planted tank... But the question is, I am looking to upgrade and move the location of my filter to a near by dresser so it can be tucked away out of sight. The dresser is about 4 feet away from the tank so I will need to extend the intake and return to the filter. Because I am doing this will I need a more powerful filter? Is the head that the pump is facing negligible because of the filter inlet? In can imagine so, but if for some reason that is not the case do I need a more powerful filter to span the distance? I was looking into something along these lines...

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+3580+3603&pcatid=3603

However, I am open to suggestions! I welcome them actually! Thanks in advance guys. Here is a picture to describe what I am working with.



The pathetic filter I dislike very much.




The future equipment control center!


 
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#2 ·
I think you should consider that most canister filters work with gravity in which the filter has to be below the tank so that a proper syphon to deliver the water to the filter and the impeller pump can push it directly to the tank. If the filter is level to the tank in the dresser it may not funtion properly.
 
#3 ·
The filter will be pretty close to level with the tank. Just a bit lower than the top of the tank. But wouldnt the force of gravity pushing the water down the intake negate the head that the filter then pushes out the outlet pipe? The filter would be working the exact same way, the inlet and outlet are just longer, and the filter is raised a bit. Like I said, I dont have much experience with canister filters though! :icon_redf
 
#4 ·
Depending on the manufactuer, id look at their instructions because they will give you a measurement to show where to mount the filter.

You can also shove the filter inside the cabinet under your tank. Then cut the drawers to accomodate the filter so that you will have partial drawers and a consealed filter.
 
#6 ·
As said above Couldn't you pull some draws out and screw them together to create a false door on the dresser under the tank and house it in there? So it looks like drawers still but they are as one now and could be hinged or just sat in place with the filter at the back, you would obviously have to get rid of the drawers themselves and just keep the fronts.
 
#7 ·
I could but I really really dont want to. All the clothes I own fit into these two dressers and Id like to keep it this way. That would be the ideal way to do it, but unfortunately I have to draw the line somewhere. lol Putting it in the cabinet to the right would be the best way to do it aesthetically, but I guess I dont understand how it would affect functionality. Can anyone clarify?
 
#8 ·
How about a DIY canister filter where instead of relying on the siphon effect you use a pump to deliver the water to the canister and then obviously the canisters pump will return it to the tank? Or forget the canister and build a sump/sealed box with your desired media and have both delivery and return pumps.
 
#10 ·
I guess Ill talk to a filter company about this. I figured the head the pump was pushing would be negated by the inlet line... Thats how closed loop systems work atleast and I have some experience with them. There is space to put it next to the tank, but I wanted to have this build be as clean looking as possible.
 
#11 ·
You do not need to put your canister under the tank if you don't want to. In fact it should work better by having it at the same level as the tank. As you suspected, by having it level with the tank you aren't having to push against gravity to return the water flow to the tank. The only restriction you would have would be any bends or other impediments to the direct flow, such as any in-line add-ons like co2 diffusers and/or heaters. As long as the filter is still below the level of the top of the water you should be ok.
 
#16 ·
Jebao yes. It is very finicky when getting it to seal. It likes to leak and has pretty low GPH flow through it. Its a pain to get it to seal everytime and sliced my hand open pretty good after I punched it in frustration. Overall I hate it. :icon_neut
 
#17 ·
Some things to think about from an experinced Canister filter user.......... Ive been using these things over my last 30 plus years in the hobby.... Some issues I see with your plan.

The INTAKE side of the filter opperates 100% off of gravity. Not suction not pumping pressure. But purely from gravity flow down the tube and into the filter. If you run it level you will have very very low to zero intake flow coming from the tank to keep the canister filled. While you will have less head pressure to run the pump on the outlet side, you wont be able to feed the pump due to the reduced to no flow.

Next..... Your putting this in a dresser and below its clothes you wear? Murphys law on canister filters. Isnt If it will leak. Its WHEN it will leak. There are 2 types of canister filter owners. Those that have had leaks and those that will. I see disaster and not so happy. The only good thing is your intake will be so poor it may not be able to leak a whole lot. BUT id bet its enough to ruin your day.

Next the amount of hose.. The length and the shape/position the hoses are in can and will effect flow rates. In the first pic you have I see the hoses are long and have some loops and curves. This slows flow and creates issues for air pockets when trying to prime. When in opperation the flow rate will go down. Most all manufactures recommend the shortest hoses you can get away with and recommend trimming them. They also recommend direct gravity flow. The pump in a canister filter is a pusher not a puller. So the effect of gravity flow also helps the water flow down to the bottom and up through all the trays and through the media where it reaches the pump in the head of the unit.

Purging at the same level as the tank will be more difficult.
 
#19 · (Edited)
The INTAKE side of the filter opperates 100% off of gravity. Not suction not pumping pressure. But purely from gravity flow down the tube and into the filter. If you run it level you will have very very low to zero intake flow coming from the tank to keep the canister filled. While you will have less head pressure to run the pump on the outlet side, you wont be able to feed the pump due to the reduced to no flow.
That's incorrect.

In any canister filter, the weight of the column of water in the intake tube is always precisely counterbalanced by the the weight of the column of water in the return tube. For this reason, the net effect of water weight in the tubes is always precisely and exactly zero. I.e. gravity plays no role in moving the water through the filter whatsoever.

Canister filters are not "fed by gravity", as it is often incorrectly believed. Wet-dry filters are fed by gravity, canister filters are not. This is the defining difference between open (wet-dry filters) and sealed (canister) filters. Canister filters, by design, do not require "feeding" at all. They are based on the idea of circulating continuous volume of "weightless" water. From the principle of operation point of view, canister filters do not have "intake side" or "return side": they are perfectly symmetrical in that regard. Speaking informally, both sides of canister filter always provide exactly the same "intake pressures", which meet inside the canister and cancel each other.

This is actually the fundamental principle that justifies the very existence of canister filters. Since gravity and weight of the water plays no role at all (the water in this system is effectively "weightless"), the pumps in canister filters does not have to "lift" the water. It only has to push the water through the media. Canister filters were invented specifically to take advantage of this principle.

As long as the system is filled with water and sealed, it can be placed below the tank, above the tank, next to the tank - anywhere. The filter itself and will not be able to feel any difference. The pump load will remain constant. This is just school physics.

P.S. The reason canister filters have height-difference limitation is not the pump load, but rather seal strength. The lower you place the canister - the greater the water pressure inside the canister becomes. If the canister is placed too low below the tank, the seals will begin leaking.
 
#21 ·
As I said above, the "gravity doesn't matter" statement refers to the fact that the two siphons (intake and return tubes) precisely cancel each other when completely filled with water. I.e. gravity doesn't matter when the system is completely filled.

For example, if you unplug the pump in a filled and operational canister filter, the water will just stop. It won't flow anywhere. (Compare that to a truly gravity-fed system: a wet-dry filter. If you unplug the pump, the intake siphon will continue to feed water, eventually overflowing the filter.)

When the canister filter is empty and you just begin to prime it, then, of course, gravity does matter.

If the canister is located below the water level in the tank, then it can basically prime itself - you just have to give it a few pumps to pull the water over the level of the tank. The intake siphon will do the rest (although the hand pump might do it faster).

If the canister is located above the water level in the tank, then, as you correctly noted, you will have to keep pumping pretty hard until you fill the whole canister and the return tube.
 
#27 ·
AndreyT is 100% correct: as long as the inlet and outlet are underwater in the tank, gravity has no effect on the operation of a primed pump. In that case, the pump is only working to overcome the resistance of the hoses, which will be greater the longer the hoses. Now, if you raised the opening of the outlet hose above the surface of the water, all bets are off: now the pump does additional work to return the water against gravity. I've seen this on plenty of occasions with a small pump trying to get water up to a higher tank. If the pump is only strong enough to make it up to the tank but not over the lip, you get no net flow. But if you run the hose up over the lip, under the water, and suck out the air…bingo=flow. Not everyone has the equipment to measure the output of a pump, but anyone with a small powerhead and a bucket can demonstrate this reality for themselves.
 
#28 ·
Wow, a lot of reading.

Anyone know why my filter has a much larger intake tube than output tube.

My filter is a jebo and so far I've been happy with it and it has had zero leaks and zero sealing issues. I put a small film of petroleum jelly on everything and I lube the pins in the clamps so they don't wear out as easily as well as the o-rings. I would recommend it but don't get the clear one, I heard people having cracking problems with the plastic.
 
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