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Migration from Coralife to Finnex Ray II

3K views 16 replies 2 participants last post by  Imi Statue 
#1 ·
Currently I have this light on my 75G tank.
Coralife 48" Compact Flourescent

Is the migration to a Finnex Ray II a good upgrade with equivalent or better light?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
Based on the PAR charts posted on this forum...

Finnex Ray II is 70 PAR (at 20")

My PC is unknown... it is a 48" 4x 65.
I am guessing it is somewhere in the 40-60 PAR range (at 20")

Seems like trading the bulb replacements as well as reducing my wattage from 260 to 39 is a great savings. The new fixture would pay for itself in less than 1 year!

I would love to switch as long as it will support my plants.

Am I totally off base here?
 
#6 ·
Ok
Looks pretty good and your upping the Par some also. So it boils down to what plants you have in the tank and are planning to get in the future.

Search for light levels here at TPT to find what your species would like, and if they will be good with the new light type, but I think you'll be good for most plants that don't require Extremely higher than normal lighting.

Plan around 6-8 hours on time to start then up to 10-12 after a few weeks giving plants time to adjust to brighter condition. Watch for algae growth throughout also since they seem to be attracted to "different" conditions.

Co2? Ferts?

Any Pics?
 
#7 ·
Plan around 6-8 hours on time to start then up to 10-12 after a few weeks giving plants time to adjust to brighter condition. Watch for algae growth throughout also since they seem to be attracted to "different" conditions.
Yeah, sounds good, I just finished decreasing to 8 hours with 2x 65W PC because of BBA. I currently have no CO2 but will be adding early next week. I will be spot-dosing Excel and upping CO2 very slowly. This should hopefully help with the BBA.

Adding an inline diffuser to one of my Eheim 2217 filters, 5 lb CO2 tank, planning on starting at 1 BPS.

Currently was only dosing with Flourish, apparently this was another piece of the puzzle I was missing. No macro, I will be adding an automated dosing system using an Aqua Lifter pump for macro.

Any Pics?
 
#9 ·
I find using a stiff brush(small kitchen type) on the BBA helps to keep it under control somewhat. requires more work that way but if I keep the main stuff gone it just eventually does not come back. use green Brillo type pads on leaves to rid there.

Maybe some top cover plants? water sprite can help until BBA is gone, and it grows fast pretty easy to come by, someone here might even just give you some for shipping if you can't find it local.

Really nice setup! Hope it continues to do well.
 
#10 ·
Thanks!

I want to add some tall background plants, thinking either Water Sprite or Cabomba.

I also wanted to add in either Eleocharis or a Micro Sword.

I might be re-arranging my hardscape to better suit the potential takeover of the grass.

---

One question on that, would the loaches get upset with a grass covering of the gravel?
 
#11 ·
Thanks!

I want to add some tall background plants, thinking either Water Sprite or Cabomba. Think about your temp of water? WS is fine for almost all temps but I have bad kharma with Cabomba and anything over 75. M.O.P.E.

I also wanted to add in either Eleocharis or a Micro Sword. why not both?

I might be re-arranging my hardscape to better suit the potential takeover of the grass.

---

One question on that, would the loaches get upset with a grass covering of the gravel?I see a Chinese Algae eater, what type of loaches are in there?
Hardscape looks fine unless you have something really different about it for your taste in mind.
 
#13 ·
Won't make a diff with clown loaches, if something is really in their way they'll just uproot it with burrowing activities.:) especially when they get larger.(you do know they get over 8" TL right?)

but you could leave a little area of just gravel right in front to kinda draw them to that spot for sleep time. (let's you see them more often)
 
#15 ·
With the pendant type lighting I used to put a wood canopy ring (wood all the way around but no top) on the tank which kept the light from beaming into the living room except upward. Then I strung plants from a clay pot on top of the tank up across some wire to hide the line from light to ceiling. Pothos Var. worked well for their speedy growth and resiliency to the light/heat.

Your best bet so far is the first of the three choices, IMHO.:)
 
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