Hey everyone. I want to DIY a co2 regulator... Originally I was looking into getting an aquatek co2 regulator, but then I reminded myself that I am doing things right on this tank... not just going for what's cheap.
Here's my dilemma..... I have no idea what to look for for the main regulator body. I've tried looking online, and have found a fair bit of information, but I just can't seem to figure it all out.
What's the benefit of dual stage over single?
Should I be looking out for specific brand names?
What is a reasonable price for the regulator body if purchased used on ebay?
I see a lot of regs that are for oxygen, or acetylene, or other welding purposes... Are those usable for this? or does it have to be specifically a co2 regulator?
I just have not had a ton of luck finding this stuff in my searches, so I'm really hopeful that maybe this thread will serve as a benefit to me, and anyone else that wants to DIY a regulator for a compressed co2 system instead of buying a pre-built.
I'm looking over the PDF file for the VTS 250 series...
I boxed in red what I think is the maximum working pressure for each model...Am I correct?
For example, the VTS 250D has a working pressure of 5-125psig. So, in the event that one wants to replace the LPG the best choice is to go with one with a maximum 200psi... Correct?
I've noticed that some people use 100 psi or recommend to use this gauges...isn't that a risk? What if one accidentaly goes over the 100psi mark...the gauge will break. Right?
For example, the VTS 250D has a working pressure of 5-125psig. So, in the event that one wants to replace the LPG the best choice is to go with one with a maximum 200psi... Correct?
I've noticed that some people use 100 psi or recommend to use this gauges...isn't that a risk? What if one accidentaly goes over the 100psi mark...the gauge will break. Right?
Yes, if you go over the 100 PSI mark accidentally, while the regulator itself will be fine (since it was designed to handle that delivery pressure), you will break the low pressure gauge.
Yes, the boxed values represent the working pressures (minimum and maximums) of those particular regulator models.
I would say 200 PSI should be the maximum reading on the low pressure gauge (not the maximum delivery pressure of the regulator). Anything higher, and it will become difficult to see how much you are increasing/decreasing the working pressure by.
I'm so about to throw this reg away...i purchased this VTS 250d on eBay and have been trying to remove the LPG and inlet but its practically impossible. My hands hurt from trying to turn the wrench but no luck. Any suggestions? I do not have a bench vise.
Since there is no red Loctite, it is a good sign. The red Loctite usually means that the two pieces are mated together permanently (you can still get the two pieces off, but it is more likely that you will damage the threading first!)
I see smooth wrench marks on the stem behind the nut which means your pipe wrench is slipping. You need to tighten it up so it bites (also, are you using it the right way, getting the stem deep in the jaws and pulling so that the upper jaw tightens as you pull harder? Don't take offence, someone was gonna ask sooner or later ) don't worry about tearing up the stem since you won't be using it, and frankly, the more your wrench bites into it the better grip it will get.
Also, this may be a stupid question, but if you push the nut down the stem is there a hex/bolt pattern on the flange on the end of the stem? I couldn't get the acetylene fitting off my regulator with a pipe wrench but it did have the handy hex part which made life so much better.
Get a burly friend to help, either in holding the regulator or turning the wrench too and if all that fails, take it to a mechanic, any halfway decent mechanic will help you out.
I'm actually trying to remove the LPG, the outlet connection, and the CGA 320. I have tried to remove both of them by just the ordinary human strength but I'm not strong enough I guess.
Ill try it one more time and I wk t be scared to damage the current cga 540. Sadly, there's no hex it at the end that would make this "easier" to remove.
The Low pressure gauge and outlet shouldn't be that hard to remove, I found that I had trouble because I needed three hands, two to hold the reg and one to turn the wrench. I would use only good quality open ended wrenches to remove these not the average adjustable wrench (which I hate).
Again, if you can't get em loose, don't be afraid to go to a mechanic or a plumber and ask for help, most tradespeople are friendly folk and operate best with the addition of coffee, donuts or beer.
Ok, so I now have the solenoid, needle valve, and regulator... I'll need to get my hands on a bubble counter, but that can wait for a little bit.
I want to use swagelok pipe fittings for it, keep it easy to just order em all online.
From the reg:
-B-4-HRN-2 (Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-B-2-SE (Brass Pipe Fitting, Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Solenoid goes here
-B-2-ME (Brass Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Needle valve goes here. (It's the Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC, so it's straight thru, I want the straight thru to be vertical)
-B-2C2-1/3 (Brass Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT, 1/3 psig (0.03 bar))
Then the bubble counter above this, probably a JBJ style.
You may have some clearance issues, and might want to extend the post-body kit out a little further. Some people will angle the kit diagonally outward on those Victor VTS's to get clearance. Also, the metering valve turned up-down, under a check valve, under a bubble counter is going to be *really* tall. That may work for you, or not.
Thank you for the insight! Do you think it may be better to have the metering valve run horizontally, then do an elbow after that for the check valve/bubble counter? That would really only require one additional part for me, and a relatively inexpensive one at that.
Mathman- I don't frankly know if this would cause any harm to the regulator, so someone else may chime in if so... but I know with loctite on some of the parts on my motorcycle, it sometimes works to use a heat gun and get the parts hot before attempting. If you're very very careful, you may be able to heat up the nipple enough with a heat gun to make it work, but I for one would be very cautious not to heat the regulator directly...
That? The ADA ones are not at all inexpensive hehe. And if so, any idea what size tubing I'd need? OD/ID in inch measurements? It will require the purchase of an adapter to switch it up to tubing if I go that route, so I'd just need to figure out what size adapter I'd need?
Also, is there any real significant benefit to going with say... Swagelok brass parts over the stuff on fleabay or just going in and buying parts from home depot? Just curious... seems like brass should be brass, and without any moving parts, I can't think of something that could go wrong with simple connections.
That? The ADA ones are not at all inexpensive hehe. And if so, any idea what size tubing I'd need? OD/ID in inch measurements? It will require the purchase of an adapter to switch it up to tubing if I go that route, so I'd just need to figure out what size adapter I'd need?
Also, is there any real significant benefit to going with say... Swagelok brass parts over the stuff on fleabay or just going in and buying parts from home depot? Just curious... seems like brass should be brass, and without any moving parts, I can't think of something that could go wrong with simple connections.
There is nothing wrong with using hardware store brass parts. I suppose you are paying for the name of Swagelok. Their quality is probably better than the hardware stuff, but in the end, they accomplish the same function.
Replace gauges, add in CGA320 stem and nut, for the output, you probably need a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter.
From there, you have your solenoid, then a T that branches to two needle valves, and then either two mounted bubble counters or two hose barbs that go to the aquarium.
Looking at the "front" end (the end that would screw into another piece), you have to wrap the teflon tape clockwise (i.e. in the same direction as the threading) so that it does not unravel as you tighten the pieces.
So I dont think the current inlet nipple and nut are going to come off my regulator. All attempts are just ending with the pipe wrench shearing off brass. Its literally destroying material rather than turning the threads.
Not.in a bench.vise yet but the wrench so far cant.get enough bite. Whatever this one is doesnt have a hex nut on it so im working with plain round material. My next step will be to contact a machine shop to see what they will charge to disassemble it for me... if they can lol.
By the way sorry that some of my spaces are periods... phone update changed the touch screen keyboard and my thumb is not used to the space bar being so far over lol
Well I took it in to Air Gas and they got my taken care of. Tank swapped no questions asked. They removed the previous nut/nipple from the reg, and sold the correct one to me. Worked out very well.
I hooked things up as best I could, and while it doesn't look pretty, I think it'll work out for me. I'll know for sure after I wire up the solenoid, right now it prevented any co2 from coming out since it's NC.
I has a small leak at the inlet nipple to the regulator, so pretty soon I'll be pulling that back off, scraping out the teflon tape, and re wrapping/connecting it. Hopefully that will work.
Will do, thanks. I may be getting my hands on a Matheson 3104a 320 stainless regulator. I'll slowly gather the stainless steel parts to make a much nicer looking regulator setup to show off lol.
Having a self made co2 system is a bit worrisome just cause if something goes wrong I can only blame myself hehe. But it was well worth it for the experience and understanding of the system.
Thanks again for all the help in making this happen.
I purchased a VTS 250d about 3 weeks ago. I was unable to test the item as I did not have any cga to connect it with. I finally got a hold of one and tested last night and even just now.
Sadly, as I opened the gas tank slowly I noticed that the regulator was releasing gas from the small back holes:
I am assuming that this regulator is useless. I am mad as this is my very first regulator purchase. I'm a bit discourage as I was extremely excited to build my own reg. I purchased it for $50. The sellers post was titled, "new old stock" and I went based on the title and a few pics when I did the purchased.
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