Nitrite spike

tab51 · 07-12-2012, 01:13 AM

I have been cycling a 20g long since June 14th, it has dw and cholla wood with 4 types of moss and i added 2 IAL in there last week. Last week I tested my params and the nitrite/nitrates were at 0 last week and ammonia was at 4 ppm, pH 6.6. I had a nitrite spike and it's up to 2 ppm, what could have caused this. Ammonia is down to 2 ppm and nitrate is still 0, pH is at 6.4 now. Also there was some type of small black pointed shell snail that was on the leaves which I didn't realize until I saw them crawling on my glass the next day.

GeToChKn · 07-12-2012, 01:22 AM

Sounds like you're in the middle of the cycle.

The formation of nitrites means your first type of bacteria is finally taking hold and the ammonia dropping confirms this. Once the nitrites spike high, the nitrates should start to kick in. There is no set amount of time cycling take. It came happen in a few weeks, it can take 3 months. Bacteria have a harder time in cooler water and a lower pH, so if your tank is kept cool with the lower pH, it's going to take longer than a month.

tab51 · 07-12-2012, 02:51 AM

Wow thank you very much, that was incredibly helpful. Yeah my water is pretty cool, between 70-73. I guess I just have to hurry and wait some more. That saved me from spending money on shrimp and killing the poor guys, again thanks for the response.

randyl · 07-12-2012, 03:02 AM

I believe that chart assumes a constant source of ammonia. And those numbers are for illustration only, you should not take them literally. For examples,
- if you get your ammonia to 10ppm (like around day 10 in chart), you may not get increased nitrite anymore because even AOB (bacteria that uses ammonia to produce nitrite) can be killed in that concentration of ammonia.
- the final WC should bring the NO3 down to below 20ppm before shrimps are introduced. I normally aim for 5ppm if possible.

I have cycled over 10 tanks/filters in the last few months. I use pure ammonia to get to 4ppm and stop adding until I see nitrite, then maintain ammonia at 2-4ppm until I see no nitrite. Then do a WC, and have the tank runs for another week or so before adding shrimps. During the final weeks I bump up the hours light is on to grow as much stuff in the tank as possible. Do another measurement before shrimps are added. I don't feel comfortable any other way now.

tab51 · 07-12-2012, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyl

I believe that chart assumes a constant source of ammonia. And those numbers are for illustration only, you should not take them literally. For examples,
- if you get your ammonia to 10ppm (like around day 10 in chart), you may not get increased nitrite anymore because even AOB (bacteria that uses ammonia to produce nitrite) can be killed in that concentration of ammonia.
- the final WC should bring the NO3 down to below 20ppm before shrimps are introduced. I normally aim for 5ppm if possible.

I have cycled over 10 tanks/filters in the last few months. I use pure ammonia to get to 4ppm and stop adding until I see nitrite, then maintain ammonia at 2-4ppm until I see no nitrite. Then do a WC, and have the tank runs for another week or so before adding shrimps. During the final weeks I bump up the hours light is on to grow as much stuff in the tank as possible. Do another measurement before shrimps are added. I don't feel comfortable any other way now.

How big of a final WC do you do?

randyl · 07-12-2012, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tab51

How big of a final WC do you do?

It depends and purely mathematical. The way I cycle the tanks I don't do WC until that moment, so my NO3 can be 100ppm or more. Normally, I get out as much water as I can, something like 95% or more. And note that, just before adding shrimps, you can get NO3 reading again, and another small WC may be needed to keep NO3 at 5ppm or less. You can use remineralized RO for these WCs to achieve your intended PH too if your tap has high PH. When cycling though, use tap, higher PH helps speed up cycling.

Before adding shrimps, you can do anything to the tank. The hard part is controlling NO3 with shrimps in the tank. If you get problems with NH3 or NO2 then it indicates cycling not completed (unless you over feed or have a big die-off) Some people are saying a mini cycle in new tanks can be expected but I have never had that issue.

Kunsthure · 07-12-2012, 12:58 PM

Crank up the heat and it'll cycle faster.

-Lisa

07-12-2012, 01:13 AM	#1
tab51 Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (5/100%) Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 91	Nitrite spike I have been cycling a 20g long since June 14th, it has dw and cholla wood with 4 types of moss and i added 2 IAL in there last week. Last week I tested my params and the nitrite/nitrates were at 0 last week and ammonia was at 4 ppm, pH 6.6. I had a nitrite spike and it's up to 2 ppm, what could have caused this. Ammonia is down to 2 ppm and nitrate is still 0, pH is at 6.4 now. Also there was some type of small black pointed shell snail that was on the leaves which I didn't realize until I saw them crawling on my glass the next day.

07-12-2012, 01:22 AM	#2
GeToChKn Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (1/100%) Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,112	Sounds like you're in the middle of the cycle. The formation of nitrites means your first type of bacteria is finally taking hold and the ammonia dropping confirms this. Once the nitrites spike high, the nitrates should start to kick in. There is no set amount of time cycling take. It came happen in a few weeks, it can take 3 months. Bacteria have a harder time in cooler water and a lower pH, so if your tank is kept cool with the lower pH, it's going to take longer than a month. __________________ 20g platy, , 2 x 10g shrimp, 3 x 20g shrimp, 7.5g shrimp and 1 great dane/mastiff puppy. Sump Pimp #2 My Tanks and my shrimps

07-12-2012, 12:58 PM	#7
Kunsthure Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (35/100%) Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Central Virginia Posts: 1,776	Crank up the heat and it'll cycle faster. -Lisa __________________ 13g: Blue Velvet Love, 20g: a 5 y/o girl's dream, 37g: will I ever go pressurized?, 75g: silky magic RAOK Club #64 and Nikon Pimp #75, baby!

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-12-2012, 02:51 AM	#3
tab51 Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (5/100%) Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 91	Wow thank you very much, that was incredibly helpful. Yeah my water is pretty cool, between 70-73. I guess I just have to hurry and wait some more. That saved me from spending money on shrimp and killing the poor guys, again thanks for the response.

07-12-2012, 03:02 AM	#4
randyl Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0/0%) Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,017	I believe that chart assumes a constant source of ammonia. And those numbers are for illustration only, you should not take them literally. For examples, - if you get your ammonia to 10ppm (like around day 10 in chart), you may not get increased nitrite anymore because even AOB (bacteria that uses ammonia to produce nitrite) can be killed in that concentration of ammonia. - the final WC should bring the NO3 down to below 20ppm before shrimps are introduced. I normally aim for 5ppm if possible. I have cycled over 10 tanks/filters in the last few months. I use pure ammonia to get to 4ppm and stop adding until I see nitrite, then maintain ammonia at 2-4ppm until I see no nitrite. Then do a WC, and have the tank runs for another week or so before adding shrimps. During the final weeks I bump up the hours light is on to grow as much stuff in the tank as possible. Do another measurement before shrimps are added. I don't feel comfortable any other way now.